She started just fine leaving my mechanics shop yesterday afternoon.

She started just fine when I left work at 10pm last night.

Go out there this morning, won't start.

At first she was just spinning the flywheel, with an OCCASIONAL pop when I let off the key or turned to start.

Grabbed the tuner and went to my stock L67 IFR table. I HAD set the IFR to 80% because 36/42.5 = 85% and I wanted her a little rich until I could tune.

So I went in and tuned her to 75% because it smelt like I was shooting fuel right into the exhaust, so I wanted to lean her out.

She sputtered a little more and if I give her gas, she'll start up and run but VERY rough.

And the second I let off the gas, she kills.

I'm NOT taking it back their either, I can't afford another tow, more labor, or more parts from them.

So the only thing I'm thinking is that I'm supposed to do 33/42.5 and get a 77% change, and then maybe run her at 72% of the L67 injectors?

Also, should I hear the fuel pump kick on and off when I let off the key while trying to start her?

Def sounds like a tunning issue.... but asuming its all put together with the same setup, wouldnt the last BIN that you had for it work? or did you not have it saved?

I installed the new injectors since the car started on fire.

$240 for new, larger injectors was better than $210 for 3 OEM stock ones...

might have to trim fuel tables way down then with larger injectors. Sounds like you are running way to rich and flooding the engine.

You swapped the PCM out right? If not, maybe the heat from the fire shot it...

Is your O2 still disconnected? If so your wasting your time with the tuner.

i had the same problem ... check your plugs and wires ... pull one or so out and see if they are covered in gas, yes you should here like a 3 second cycle of the fuel pump when you turn on your key

Yes, you should hear the fuel pump at that time.

x2 with herc. Is your o2 connected?

so did you tune the new injectors, or not?

I adjusted the IFR table, reducing all values to 75% of what they were, based on the 33# divided by the new 42#.

No, the O2 is not connected. It still doesn't start with it connected either.

I'll go pull some plugs, what am I looking for?

You really shouldn't be messing with the tuning if the PCM is getting no O2 readings.

Did you ever get that O2 harness changed out or is it still spliced together?

You really should put that tuner away fix all the little stuff. Check fuel pressure and all the basics. Cause until then your just spinning your wheels. I know it's frustrating but when you do a major mod and compound it with fire the variables are just too great.

It's not the O2 sensor OR the harness.

The sensor and extension ahve been replaced TWICE.

I used a Bosch sensor and now have a Delco sensor. Same problems. Currently have a BRAND NEW O2 extension installed.

It's not the sensor that's the problem, I think the PCM got screwy after my very first tune, because that's when the car first started it's "surging". Even after reverting back to the .bin that I got form ZZP, it still surged.

So I think I need a PCM now and I can't find my old one.

Oh, and while I have the motor running, I had my bro watch the exhaust and he said it smells like straight-up gasoline.

So obviously I'm beyond pig-rich.

And I'm not "tuning." Tuning would require actually having the motor running. I'm just trying to get it to start and STAY RUNNING!

No tuning about it, adjusting the IFR table for the new injectors is all that needs to be done and that's not exactly "tuning."

I understand that I can't "tune" without O2 readings but if the motor doesn't RUN, how am I going to get O2 readings?

I can get the car to "run" if I give her some gas while trying to start and keep giving her gas while she's running. But it's rough and the second I let go of the gas, she kills.

Oh, here's the codes she's throwing...

P0134
P0172
P0300

Have you went to the powrtuner board, and download/import the injector csv/bin file for the injectors you're using?

Also check your other tables... theres a lot more than the IFR that screws with fuel as you know. To get it running, I would set AFR to 14.5 across the board for any AFR-related tables. Also check injector skew% and theres a few more I can't remember... haven't tuned in a while.

Check fuel pressure and regulator maybe? Possible injector stuck open too??

What about IPWs?

not to hijack here or anything...just a side comment...considering I have no laptop computer, do I really wanna do a top swap without first getting a class on tuning and all related software?

not at all making light of your dilema zerg, I know it must feel like major headbanging trying to get things straight...good luck.

Well, with PowrTuners, we have guides we can download that explain the parameters and what they affect. On guide in particular is over 70 pages long. We also have programs 3rd parties have made to make tuning easier.

Even though that parameters are the same, each program is different in how you alter them. That is just going to be a learning curve that you'll have to overcome through use.

To sum it up: You don't need a class, just do a bunch of reading and ask questions to people 'in the know' about your car and particular program.

Found my old PCM.

Did a full write with the .bin I got from ZZP for my top-swap, with adjusted IFR tables.

She started up just fine. Exhaust smells like it should.

Drove her around with the O2 plugged in. She's still "surging" but actually, I think it got a *little* bit better driving around.

Anyway, I have a new problem. While driving for a period of time (a few blocks at least), when I come to a stop, the car is vibrating BAD. She's ilding VERY low, like 750 rpms low. But if I don't go anywhere and just sit there, after maybe 10-20 seconds, all of a sudden it will feel like something "releases" and the idle goes up to 850 rpms or so, with no more vibration.

The car is in D the whole time so I was thinking maybe the TCC solenoid or something? It really does feel like something just stops bogging the motor down. Also, if I only drove like one block, it doesn't drop low like that and vibrate.

It's only if I have driven for like 2 blocks.

I'm thinking tranny more and more I think about it. Any ideas?

BTW, I checked the DTCs and she threw a P0300, which is probably from the rough start and long idle time, and a new one, P1404. I think that one though is a false alarm. The EGR was something I pulled from the donor car. I'll try to Erase-code, turn off car fix for it and see if it goes away tomorrow.