OK...now I'm ticked!

The other day the driver window failed again.his time stuck in the up position. Since I had already replaced the regulator in this door once (about a year ago I think) I assumed it was the door switch gone south.
So, $98 later !! (bloody insane price) I installed the new switch today and still no moving window...if I have to do the regulator again I AM NOT gonna be a happy camper.

I hear you. I have to get a new regulator as well. I don't know what it is about that design but it does suck.

Sorry about that. I just change pass. window motor for my winter car 2 weeks ago. $98 is pretty high. I usually went to junk yard to get that part. Mostly around $10-30 buck for window thing.

and that is why you do the diagnosis instead of just replacing something and praying. testing the window switch is trivial.

My front passenger side window is out now. This is the third out of the four windows to go in less than 18 months. This is just getting stupid.

It's too darn hot to fix it now, which works, since it's too darn hot to roll the window down for any reason.

wow mines have never gone out.

When you replace the window regulator, be sure to tighten the bolts in sequence to 89 lb in:

Now you've done it. Plus your car is red...

That's a regulator for a four door isn't it?

I never knew there was a torque sequence and requirement. I wonder if that's the cause of all the burnt motors?

here's pic of the two door regulator.

Yes it is, the Service Manual uses this pic with (Typical) after it. Since they don't show a coupe regulator, my guess is it uses a similar sequence. It also says:
Important

In order to ensure proper orientation of the window regulator to the door, tighten the window regulator bolts in the specified sequence (1,2,3,4).

While I agree the regulator design sucks, maybe there's a reason they don't last...

Checked my '98 Service Manual and online for other years, no pics of the coupe regulator you posted up, Herc. There are pics of other coupe specific door stuff, but no regulator.

I wish GM woulda just used the same one as the one in my 98 pickup. That thing hasn't hic-upped once.

I haven't replaced a window motor+regulator in my car as of yet, but I recall my friend at the GM dealer saying there were two vendors that supplied these for our cars: Vendio (silver motor) and Bosch (black motor). Supposedly the Bosch was the better of the two.

I don't know. My second regulator wasn't an OEM and it went faster then the first. Lasted about a year.

Haven't replaced it since it's in the up position. Once I get moved I'll put a new one in.

Change out my AC compressor and clutch cause the clutch grinds when the AC is off. Replace the blower since I've "repaired" it three times now and the bushing is now gone. The taillights cause they are delaminating bad, fix my foglight switch since the face plate broke and the switch is hanging, the rearview mirror cause it's getting all discolored, and what ever else I'm forgetting.

That's something I fear every time I roll my windows down or up.

I never knew there was a torque sequence on the regulator, though.

Genuine GM regulators are definately worth the money. If you're buying your regulators off of Ebay be prepared to change them annually.
If you're buying GM regulators I'm sorry to hear that they are failing on you.
Yes they do fail but replacing them with OEM is usually good for several years.

Are the ones from NAPA genuine GM? That's what I've used on the two I've replaced so far. They come with a warranty, though I don't remember how long.

What type of climate does everyone find their windows fail?

Both of mine were in the winter. Very cold and or wet.

One was in Savannah, two were in New Mexico. SAV was winter, NM was spring-fall.

Florida. Very very hot.

Ok well there goes that theory.

I've got 90k and haven't had issues with the windows.
Well the rear one did have issues going down, but haven't had issues with it in months.

I can't believe it. I was reading this thread no less than 24 hours ago thinking how lucky I was that none of my regulators have failed, and today the driver one goes.

These things have to be like glass, I was working on the driver's door because some moron hit my mirror in a parking lot and I go to roll the window up some and try to put it back down with no result. At the most I just bumped the regulator, that was it, and poof like that I need a new one.

So, anyone here put in a new regulator that is still working? What brand and where did you get it from?

x2, Im looking for one for the passenger rear.

Well I guess I spoke too soon. I was determined to not let this regulator beat me so I went out and kind of felt around the areas where I might have made contact with the regulator. I immediately found the two cables that move the window up and down. I figured that these must be causing the regulator to fail. I turned the ignition and and held down the down button for the window as I moved the cable in different directions with my finger and sure enough the window started going down once I got it in the right spot and now it's working perfectly again!

I don't know if I got lucky or what but for those of you waiting to replace a regulator I'd give this a try to maybe save yourself some money and frustration.

If you can see the cables something is wrong. They should be housed in a casing. Usually the end breaks on the casing allowing the cable to get loose.

I haven't had to replace mine, but I've replaced a few on others cars... I've never tried a Napa brand, or any other local parts store brand. It's the Ebay regulators that you might want to stay away from in my experience.

I could not see the cables, however I could feel them with my fingers. Simply moving the one on the left closer to the side of the track like the right one was while pressing the down button on the window switch got the window working again.

I've never dealt with regulators before so I'm no expert but this worked for me so I was sharing it with you guys. Will this last? Probably not, but hopefully it'll work for a while, knock on wood.

If you look at the pic on page one you'll see the cables are visible on the two door model.

From the looks of that picture you are right Herc. I don't recall any cables being exposed on the 2 door unit that I replaced.... Other than the ones that weren't supposed to be exposed.

My first one the cable actually came off of one of the nylon guides. That one I ended up cutting the cable and tying it to the door to hold the window up until the new regulator came in.

darn yall. Today my driver's regulator failed. and in so repairing, I also destroyed the lock section of my driver's door lock switch. A local parts house had it available for $120 incl taxes. the door switch is dealer-specific for $27 incl taxes.

The only things that ticks you even more is when you pull a door panel and as soon as you do the window goes right back to working like a charm

I loosened the bolts and retightened them in sequence like BlackArrows diagram. I also added some graphite in the window tracks to see if that would help.
So I have a brand spankin new regulator just waiting for the next time it decides to screw up. :rolleyes:

That's our gremlins for ya...just plain evil!

Yeah, I've been buying the cheap regulators off Ebay and I've ended up replacing them about once a year fro the past 3 years. But I'm getting damn good at in installing new ones. I've got it down to about 12 minutes. So I've got that going for me.
Of course, now it's heating up outside and I need to recharge the A/C again. So not having a working drivers-side window on a coupe is getting very uncomfortable. First, A/C recharge, then GM OEM regulator. And this time I'll try the correct torque and order.

Just re-asking, since no one answered. I'm curious.

No the NAPA ones are not OEM. They are made by Dorman with a limited lifetime warranty. Cost is right around $145 for a 2 door model. About the same price for the rear on a 4 door, and $112 for the front on a 4 door.