Vehicle- 2000 GP GT 3.8, NA 175,xxx miles (got a good deal)

Bought the vehicle, paid cash, got the title, and was happier than a pig in the mud. Then the gremlins woke up.

Problem 1- Found a leak in the radiator. Small pinhole, but enough to make the low coolant come on. Sometimes it just flickers now and then.
I plan on just replacing the whole radiator, cap, and thermostat at one time. Just wasted money on getting it flushed. Go Figure.

Problem 2- The darn ABS and TRAC OFF lights keep coming on. I thought I heard something from the front drivers side wheel area. Like a brake pad rubbing on the rotor. Didn't think much of it. Then when braking, the ABS would kick on, like I was slamming on the brakes and it was trying to not skid. It happens a few times, and really worry-some, then the ABS and TRAC OFF lights come on, then it doesn't pulse and act up anymore, like it shut down the ABS system. I can here a few clunks and clicks from up front, but cannot determine where they are coming from. I guess I will have to jack up the car and wiggle the wheel in the 12 and 6 o'clock position to see if it has play. I need to find time to get it in and have the ABS codes read.
What do you all think? Pulsing brakes, like the ABS is kicking on hard core.

Problem 3- Check engine light came on. ( I know, I just bought the car and the darn instrument cluster is lighting up like a flippin Christmas tree!) Took it straight to Autozone to get the codes ran. MULTIPLE CODES!!!! The guy about crapped his pants and asked HOW it was still running. It actually runs fine. Not great, but fine. The tranny shifts very hard into gears, but I think it's one of the codes. Here they are:

P0118- (engine coolant temp) sensor (Could this be because the pinhole in the radiator and the fluid level drops, thus throwing the low coolant light?

P0171- Fuel Trim Bank One
possible causes:
Fuel pressure or MAF sensor
O2 Sensor Defect
Ignition misfire
Fuel injector problem

P0300- Cylinder misfire detected- random cylinders
Possible causes:
Vac leak
Injector fault
Ignition System Fault (plugs, wires, coils)
High/low Fuel Pressure

P0327- Knock Sensor Condition
Possible Causes:
Knock sensor defective
check connector and wiring to sensor
engine mechanical condition
Low Fuel Pressure

P0122- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Possible Causes:
Sensor Open or shorted internally, replace
Check connector and wiring to sensor
Is this the reason why the tranny is shifting hard as soon as the check engine light comes on? Does the TPS tell the tranny when/how to shift?

P1404- EGR Valve Stuck Open condition
Possible causes:
failed EGR
Carbon blockage of pintle

P0404- EGR system Fault
Possible causes:
Failed EGR valve
open or short circuit condition
Failed EGR position sensor
Failed EGR pressure sensor where applicable

P0442- EVAP small leak/no flow condition
Possible Causes:
Defective or lose fuel cap
Evap Canister or hose cracked or not connected
purge or vent solinoid defective
vac leak at engine

P0336- Crankshaft position sensor condition
Possible Causes:
Crank Sensor defective
Check connector and wiring to Sensor
check trigger wheel for damage

P0332- Knock Sensor Condition
Possible Causes:
Knock Sensor defective
check connector and wiring to sensor
engine mechanical condition-knock or rattle in engine
low fuel pressure


(anyone yell BINGO yet?)
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What I bought so far and have YET to replace:
Oil/Filter
Air Filter
PCV Valve
Trans Filter/Fluid
(said plugs and wires were done 3 months ago)
I still bought new Plugs and Wires

Cleaned MAF sensor
Cleaned MAF Screen
Coolant flush (pinhole in radiator, replacing radiator)

Going to turn rotors. Possible replace if needed.
Front pads new, will double check them
Rear pads look worn, will replace regardless.

Owner said CV half shaft was replaced. Not sure what side. Still hearing some clunking/clicking here and there on drovers side. NOT when turning though. Possible struts or other steering components? Maybe HUB? Could be why the ABS light came on?

As you can see, I have my hands full and need some advice.

Should I just buy a TPS, EGR, Knock Sensor, MAF sensor? Or is there a better way?

If I can think of other symptoms, I will post them.

Also heard a little whining today in the engine bay. Need to check and chance the PS fluid. Wheel is not hard to turn.

Check your wheel bearings for the sounds and ABS.

Check resistance to your sensors.

The coolant temp sensor is a temp sensor not a pressure sensor and is probably bad.

TPS is definitely throwing off your trans and would cause bucking and jerking as well as surging during idle and a raised idle too.

A bad KS would give you low load. Also would give you the bucking and surging with sluggish acceleration.

EGR valve is probably going as well.

Your getting the fuel trim code because you are misfiring.

Check all your vac lines for leaks or diconnects.
Do all that stuff AND fuel filter, and some fuel treatment.

Check the PS fluid level because it will whine before it gets hard to turn then your just ruining your pump.

For the engine I'd start with the EGR valve.

Wow... it almost sounds like a wiring problem.

If you want to start, start by replacing some of the parts that probably need it. It sounds like you need a wheel bearing, o2 sensor, clean the EGR (both sides), maybe plugs and wires for the misfires...

You have some work ahead of you, man.

Well today I changed the oil, replaced the plugs and plug wires, replaced the TPS, replaced the Fuel Filter, PCV valve, Belt, and air filter. The plugs were ungodly awful. I'm not sure how it even ran! I took pics and have to upload them.

For the outcome- The check engine light didn't come on, until I pulled in the driveway. The trans seems to shift a little better, but still jumps into gears. Just need to drop the pan and replace the filter.

So, I guess I willbuy a new EGR as well, it doesn't look like it has ever been replaced.
Now, it feels like the car "jerks" or pulses when driving at a steady speed with steady RPMs. If you gas it a little, not mash it, but lightly push the pedal, it will "hesitate" and feels like it lightly "jerks" and the RPM's surge up and down a few hundred RPMs until I push the pedal a little further down.

When I pulled it in the garage, the car smells like exhaust. Not regular exhaust, but running rich maybe? That make sense? What would cause that?

Sluggish acceleration especially on highway cruise at less than WOT....mild acceleration? bucking/surging?

I'd say Knock Sensor.

Change that trans filter out.

Will change it after work tomorrow.
You suggest a Knock Sensor as well?

When changing the PCV, I noticed the MAP Sensor was coming apart. Like the bottom of the housing was pulling away from the rest of it, like someone tried to pull it off the wrong way?

There was also a vac line from the fuel pressure regulator to the throttle body I believe, that was cracked on the elbow and they had it taped up with electrical tape, so that is another thing that needs replacing.

Replace that vac line from the fpr to the tb before you buy a knock sensor. That line being off is raising your fuel pressure.

Will do. Will pull it apart tomorrow and look at it. See if the part stores carry it. (most likely not)

There area a few parts car on ClubGP that may have it. Here is the most recent. I maybe getting a parts car as well this weekend so ill let you know.

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=5046231&p=2&tmode=1&smode=1

A bad coolant temp sensor (or problems in that wire harness) can cause rich exhaust, and poor gas mileage(PO118 code). It's in the lower intake manifold below the thermostat. The Autozone part number is TU178. Hope that helps!

Probably wouldn't hurt to throw a new o2 sensor in there, too.

When I get my new radiator, I planned on getting a new coolant temp sensor, just going to do it all at one time, along with hoses and T-Stat. If you do one thing, such as a radiator, might as well do it all.

Dang it, I went to Autozone to get an O2 and EGR and forgot to get the O2! Have to go back later I guess. Also forgot to look for the vac lines. Been at work all day. Had other things on my mind. I need to start writing things down!

Off to the garage to replace the EGR.......

UPDATE-
Replaced the EGR, had the battery cable off for a little over an hour. Plugged it all back up and took it for a drive. Everything seemed fine. Check engine light came back on again. Took it to Autozone so they can read the codes again. Had my fingers crossed there weren't 8 codes like last time. Only 1 this time! I was happy. It was P0171 I think, and they think it's because the cracked vac line from the fuel pressure regulator to the TB. I'll have to pic one up Monday. He let me clear the codes in the car with their scanner.

On a a side note, I jacked up the wheel on the drivers side and wiggled it at a 12 and 6 position. It is VERY loose. Looks like I am replacing the drivers side front HUB next!

Woot almost there dude!