I finally made the effort to meet my new neighbor today. He has one of the rare aforementioned cars that has driveability issues. If anyone here can help, thatd be great.

The issue, to me, seems to be fueling. It is the 318 2bbl 4-on-the-floor. When I tried to goose the happy pedal while idling in the driveway, it stalled out. The owner told me he has that issue even while driving. I suggested dialing in the carb, replacing fuel filter, FILLING THE TANK WITH GAS, and checking the jets of his carbs. What else could there be?

When trying to start his car back up after I stalled it, I laid my foot on the clutch, as gently as I would my Camaro, turned the key, and nothing happened. He said you hafta jam the clutch in pretty hard. Is that the case with these Embargo-Era Mopars? Or is it the case on HIS Embargo-Era Mopar?

Yeah, there was a LOT of skin cancer EVERYWHERE on this car, but it looked straight and relatively solid. Cool lookin car, thats for DARN sure. He wants to sell, I tried to convince him to keep it. It's a RARE muscle car that wont take much to get running, wont take much to keep running, and will turn some SERIOUS heads once complete.

Hey, I sure appreciate any constructive input from anyone here (yes, even you, GTPGXP).

I'd take the carb off clean it completely. As for the clutch maybe adjusting the safety switch will make a difference.

as in rebuild the carb, or JUST clean?

I'll let him know. Are those old clutches that...peculiar? Particular? UUGH, that much of a PITA or are they supposed to be just as smooth as Shianne?

Thanks for postin up, Herc.

yea i would clean up the carb too, or have it rebuilt. and also check the fuel pump. it could be bad and need replaced. with the car bein that old, the fuel pump might be mechanical. it the clutch the orginial clutch? he might want to put in a whole new clutch kit.

iirc, he already replaced the clutch, but not sure. I'll ask.

Not sure about the fuel pump, either, I'll ask and suggest.

since this age and type of vehicle is new to me, would it be more cost-effective to buy a remanufactured carb or rebuild himself?

I plan on helping him as much as I can. His Dad was in the Army as well, and didnt make it home from Iraq. He was one year away from retiring.

did he replace the whole clutch, preasure plate and all? it would be cheaper to just rebuilt the carb. and get a rebuild kit at most auto parts stores. sorry to hear that about his dad.

If there is no response when turning the key I'd suspect an out of adjustment microswitch. I'm now sure where in the linkage it would be.

As for the carb. To thoroughly clean it would more then likely require a rebuild.

Could be as simple as bad accelerator pump. With carbs, pressing the pedal will cause the accelerator pump to squirt in some gas to overcome the immediate lean condition as the throttle blade opens. With the motor not running, you should be able to look into the carb and move the linkage and see gas squirt in. These pumps are usually adjustable with different holes in the linkage.

Check fuel pressure and fuel filter which should be inline at the carb. If the fuel pressure is too low or high..... well you know.

I will send this to my best buddy who has more old Mopars than you can imagine. I'm sure he has more info than you will ever need.

As far as a rebuild kit. Buy a Holley kit, not a cheap aftermarket one.

GTPGXP: I have no idea. I have yet to talk to him again. I most likely will tomorrow.

Herc: I'll be sure to keep the rebuild advice in mind when I talk to the guy.

72Chevy: I'm guessing your advice would be to rebuild over buy?

I can imagine that, when I talk to him again tomorrow, I'll hafta have my computer handy to show him this thread. Thanks, fellas, for your input.

Mopar experts response:

Failed accelerator pump, choke setting on the carb, incorrect idle speed, vacuum leak somewhere, incorrect ignition timing or faulty coil. Timing has jumped due to a failed timing chain and/or cam gear. Check the compression to verify the condition of the engine ( it is over 30 years old). Clutch interlock switch misadjusted or broken for the restart issue.

no problem, keep us posted. i will try and help as much as i can.

Thx a whole lot 72Chevy! that feeds a LOT of info. He will get this tomorrow.

GTPGXP: will do.

If the clutch doesn't respond unless you put it to the floor, adjust the linkage.

The switch is most likely the culprit on the clutch...my 76 Roadrunner was also a 4spd and I never had to jam the clutch.

I can also tell you the 78 models were one of the transition years for emission controls with the "lean burn" series of engines. Vacuum leaks can be real issues as well as the choke setup for the carb. Most used a heat coil located on the pass side of the intake connected to the carb via linkage. This coil is heated by an exhaust port in the head which blows into the chamber in the intake under this coil. Since this is a no-exit passage, it usually becomes clogged with carbon over time, so the choke never fully comes off. this turns the car into a sluggish, stalling gas hog.

Best advice, ditch the entire intake and the crummy 2bbl Stromberg carb...any 340 intake will bolt right on (despite a slight port mismatch) but a good vacuum secondary 4bbl carb will boost both power and fuel mileage so much you wont believe its the same car. Go with a carb with an electric choke and forget the poor head port design. A 360 intake will also work.

This was the first in long line of mods I made to my Roadrunner, and its one he wont soon regret.

So it will run reasonbly well when idleing? remove the air cleaner and see if the choke is open once it's warm if it does'nt open try manualy opening the choke and give a shot of acceloration if it accelorates fine you have found the problem (faulty choke ) now if the choke is open when warm and still stumles when you goose it 72 chev man had your answer the accelorator pump is faulty and the carb should e rebuilt ,either buy a kit or purchase a rebuilt,do'nt forget to install new fuel filter and air filter.Chico(pops)