Steve, check your PMs

Quite lean below 2000 rpms, then goes quite rich once start accelerating above 2000.

which part of my run are you in? Part 1, 2...and what line?

Part 1.
Your box is full.

not no more. thanks for those links. A vast majority that you sent I've already tried to read.

Just read them. You'll at least start to be able to apply what you read when you start tuning, so you aren't going in totally blind.
Once you start playing with the laptop, you'll start to understand more.
Once you read them then I can put it in a better form of English.

lol, k

I started to read the MAF Worksheet Guide, got some values plugged into the MAF Worksheet, pulled the .bin off of my PCM, plugged that in, and saw that the suggested changes didn't change anything. What gives? What am I missing? What did I do wrong?

okay, got some MAF work done today. Now that I understand a bit of what's going on, I think I can handle this phase of tuning. Wish I could understand the math and science behind it, but it probably is MUCH better this way. Thanks a lot to Alex in PA (man I wish I remembered your screen name here...) for taking the time to walk me through all of this.

the math/science behind it is much simpler then it seems.

the MAF table is a reference for X amount of fuel to spray when the car see Y amount of air. your car "learn" over time if this table is correct or not and saves the trend as a Fuel Trim. We take the Long Term Fuel Trims and use this data to make a more accurate MAF table.

the end result is a table that is near perfect. remember that the trims are % changes to the MAF table. so the larger the % the larger the chance for error and the less precise it is. this is why we want trims + or - 5 and 0 at PE/ WOT

the more advanced tuning comes in to correct specific issues. say if you have KR in a specific RPM. you can add fuel or pull timing. When you get to this point it is important to have a wide band O2 to make sure the values you are seeing are correct.

when trying to add timing, most add timing until they see KR and then back down. with a Wide band you can watch the amount of fuel used. it is possible to have a situation where you don't have KR but raising the timing doesn't create more power. without a dyno it is hard to discover this situation but with a wide band you can make an educated guess. Raising the timing should create a more complete burn of the air fuel. so if you raise the timing and find your A/F is richer then, you aren't using the fuel as well and the timing will need to be lowered.

Ok so ends todays tuning tip.

I'm then assuming that the equations to figure all this out are relatively simple? I'm going to continue to use the Table Modifier Thingy, but it would be cool to do the math myself at least once.

Last night, as I was exporting from the table modifier to .csv for import to powrtuner, I used the option to modify up to 50%, and I was at that limit for a VAST majority of my MAF changes. That then means to me that I'm going to be stuck at the MAF adjustments for quite some time, aren't I? I'm guessing that if I try to use a bigger adjustment that my PCM could be bricked by such drastic changes. From what I was seeing last night, my car is already at 0 KR, and I don't think I was pushing more than .5* KR in either direction of 0.

One of the fears I have/had is that I bought this wideband and did all this work to it for naught. Thanks for confirming that it was something that I'm going to NEED.

a bricked pcm is not caused by the number of changes made. it is caused by a power/ data loss during upload of a bin. so dont worry about that.

when i use eddies program i normally set it to 90% I always watch and look over the report it generates. if i see average trims of less then 1% like say .4% or -.3 what i will do is on the last tab before making a new maf i will put in ignore values. and set it to ignore +1 thru -1 or +.50 to -.50 if i didnt do this, the new maf could over shoot the trim and go negative. Negative trims are bad. if the trim is neg that means you car sees a rich condition and counters this by leaning the AF out. so you end up being lean.

I didn't see that option, thanks for the heads up! Also was I afraid of the myths of bricking a computer. Such a relief. I sure don't want to end up NEEDING my spare, ya know?

i personally would watch the boards or go to a local junk yard and get a spare anyway. you never know when something could happen. you should not have any problems finding a PCM for under $50. and for that its worth the piece of mind. better to have one and not need it then need one and not have it. in a pinch you could end up hard pressed to find one

i always carried a spare 96 pcm as when you have many custom parts a stock PCM just would not run the car. so i figured its good to have in case the tuner dies or im stuck somewhere without one. which happened when my DOHC died. it was great having a spare known working PCM with a correct file in it with me.