i got back from drivin OTR and jump in ol reliable.

drove up I-75 then put the , when the huffer kicked in she started missing bad then the check eng light came on.

it`s missing when i put the down with or w/o the perf shift on. the light went out. but it still misses when i engage the S/C.

i did a complete fuel service @ the dealer @ 60K.
lines, filter, injectors @ 60k and she now has 73K.
it still has OEM plugs and coils.

Q1: if i take it to Auto Zone to get it scanned will the codes still be in there even if the C.E. light went out? it always has 93 oct in its belly and i buy Mobil.

she does not miss when i drive her easy and my MPG is right on the money, 19 CITY 30 HGWY @ 70 MPH.

any help would be greatly

ew, I don't trust dealers...

But anyway... what are the conditions of your plugs & wires? New? What kind?

If it's not either of those, I would try the coils next..

Those are the most common items (that I know of) that cause misses the way you're describing...

Yes the codes will be stored. My guess is multiple misfires due to old wires.

Oh yea and is it JUST the SES light? Has the TCS light came on at all?

the dealer i take it too has a good svc writer.. the mech`s follow the svc writer so i trust him, bought the car new and the svc writer has always treated me right. but i do agree with you Kwik Wun, you have to be careful with dealer mech`s.

no new plugs or coils. there the same ones since it left the show room floor.

so you think it might be that???

Thank YOU......

Sounds like a good thought 4 T 8.

yeah its just the ck eng light.

i have a `97 so i dont have the TCS light. i have the low trac light, which if im correct is different from the TCS light.

i also have the option of turning my perf shift off or on by pressing a button on my shift knob.

neither light has come on.

i guess im gonna have to break down and buy new wires , plugs, N coils.. OEM,, of course..

Yes.

Well, you can buy one at a time until u figure out what it is :p (But I just played dumb so I could get new components - deceived the wifey)

First, I replaced my Fuel filter... ("darnit, its not THAT)

2nd, replaced plugs with NGK's ("hmmm")

3rd, replaced wires (OEM) (1 of them had a cut in it so I convinced her with that one :p )

and then I checked to see if each of the coil packs were generating spark by shutting the engine off and removing 1 wire at a time and then turning the engine to see if it sparks.

Sure enough, it was the top coil pack, so I replaced it and it never happened again!

hehe, I know that was bad huh

There's a resistance (Ohms) measurement you can use to see if the coil packs are shot. Darn it if I could find the values that tell you if the packs are good or bad.

Hello,

Corroded terminals are a visual sign as to whether you need new coilpacks or not.
I'd start with wires and plugs. Check the terminals on your coil packs, if they are shiny and clean they may be OK.
I had all 3 coil pack terminals corrode on me. Destroyed my wires.

Later now,
Clint

[/QUOTE]i guess im gonna have to break down and buy new wires , plugs, N coils.. OEM,, of course..
[/QB][/QUOTE]


4T8: mine did the same thing, fine till I got on it, and the SC kicked in... couldn't figure it out at first, but after dark I popped the hood, and started it... then grabbed the throttle cable, and gave it a little tug, sure 'nuff, I was misfiring across the wires. after I made (limped) it home. (I was out of town for work)
the first thing that I did was buy new wires from oreilly's and used them till my Taylors came in


just my .5 cents worth

I had a mini van that was would do that. Unfortunately I didn't have the ability to wait till night fall. So I popped the hood and was gonna start pulling plug wires while the engine was missing to find out which cylinder it was. Well the first wire I went to grab it bit me before I even touched it!! Talk about a shocking experience. After that I was able to see the arcing from the wire to the cylinder head.