I was reading in a thread about 100K mile maintenance and Rook made a comment that I have a question about, but may derail the topic in that thread.

**********************
Spark plugs/Trans fluid: Not that difficult, just time consuming the first time. It's real easy to roll the engine forward with a ratcheting tie down after you remove the two dogbones in the front.
**********************

For the ratcheting tie down, where would you connect the straps?

I googled on how to rotate the engine and found another way to do it where they use a 2x4 and a floor jack.
http://www.chevroletforum.com/m_40160/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

I checked my plugs last fall and they looked fine...except for #6...the O2 sensor was in the way and since all the plugs looked good, 6 must have been too.

Take both dogbones out and leave the bolt in the engine bracket on the driver's side. You can then put one hook on that. The other I used to run to part of the front end where the hood latch is located. It's been a while so details are fuzzy.

You can also use a turn buckle between the bolt I mention and the one on the mount above the radiator.

i have never seen a need to rock the motor forward for plugs. Just reach your hand back there and feel around.

On the 3800, it isn't that big of an issue either way. On the 3100, it's a must. My arm wouldn't even fit around where the alternator was in order to get the plugs near it.

I just pushed on my door pillar and watched the engine rock forward a few inches, as I held the car there, I pushed in E-brake. This was of course after I removed the dog bones. I helped a buddy of mine do it to his, and his driveway slopes a little. It was much easier to rock it this way. Be careful though, too much slope is bad.

You have lots more room to reach your plugs this way.

Do not undo the dogbones and try to rock the engine forward with the nose pointing uphill unless you're using the turnbuckle or ratchet strap method. It's a bad idea, personal experience talking.

are there any kind of hoses, belts, exhaust parts that need to be removed first...or does it just rotate?

That might work, but for someone like me, who, when my spark plugs get changed, will be doing it for the first time, I wouldn't know what to reach or feel for.

Nope, you don't have to remove anything except the dogbones. The exhaust and everything else has enough play to move with the engine.

If and only IF your car is on level ground with the wheels chocked I'd recommend putting the tranny in neutral as well. Makes it a little easier to rotate if you're by yourself.

thats true, i didnt think about that. it becomes like second nature after doing it so many times.