***Warning: long story. Short version down below, but i would suggest reading whole thing****

Hey everyone. I recently purchased a 97 Grand Prix GTP. Everything was fine when I bought the car, but 2 days later I got in the car and started it up, put it in reverse, and it kind of sputtered like and died. I tried starting the car again, it started, idled for acouple seconds, and died again. Tried starting it a couple more times, and after giving it gas and revving it up a bit i got it to start. I parked it down in the garage, put a new caliper on it, and attempted to start it back up, but again it idled for a few seconds and died again. I looked around under my hood, and i found that the vacuum line comming from the top of the supercharger that routes behind the engine and back to the firewall and down to the fuse box (which i found later is for HVAC vents) had broken lines after where it T's. So i had a vacuum leak. I fixed both lines like they should be, but still no fix; the car still starts and dies. The car isn't throwing any SES codes, although my ABS light is on.

I read up a little bit to find that the fuel pump resistor could be the culprit. Tried the bypass trick, and the car still would not idle.

After further research, I was leaning towards it being the IAC valve or CPS. So i stopped at AutoZone and bought a IAC. When replacing the IAC, i was trying to move the bundle of wires that was in the way and my hand slipped and busted a vacuum line off of the BBP valve. GREAT I thought! It was very brittle and broke clean off easily. Anyways replaced the IAC and sealed off the vacuum line to the BBP just to see if my problem was fixed. Car started up just great! yay! Started it up 3-4 times after that and it idled just fine. Ok problem solved right? Not so fast, right before I left the garage i decided to start it up one last time just to make sure, and sure enough it started up, idled for a few seconds, and sputtered out and died.

So today I replaced the CPS and fixed the BBP (not replaced, rigged it up so that it will work temporarily). Tried starting car up for the first time today and once again, starts and idles for a few seconds, dies. I did not do a case learn as I do not have a tech II or powrtuner or anything like that, but it still should start up and idle atleast, right?

I would also like to note after replacing the IAC and CPS I tried unplugging the MAF to see if it would start after that, but still the same symptoms. If it helps, if i start the car and just hold down the gas to rev it and keep it idling, it will rev up for a second and still die. However if I keep pumping the gas and rev it that way, i can keep the car running so long as i keep pumping the gas, but when i let off it will sputter and die almost instantly. Sorry this is so long, i just like to give as much info as possible so y'all can help me diagnosis this properly.

***Short version**: 97 Grand Prix GTP. Car turns over and idles for 2-3 secs, sputters and then dies. Replaced IAC, CPS(but did no case learn, do i have to on a 97?), tried fuel pump resistor bypass trick, tried unplugging MAF and starting, all to no avail. Can pump the gas and rev it up to keep car running but will die as soon as i let off. NO codes have been set.

*Update* Also, today i had my dad spray starting fluid into the intake as it was idling, and as long as he would keep spraying the ether into the intake the car would stay running, but as soon as he stopped it would stall.

Your not getting any fuel, go to the store and get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it upto the port on the fuel rail. When you start the car see if the fuel prssure dies before the car stalls if it does, then the fuel pump is turning off. At that point since you checked the resistor already I asume you checked the relay. IF you didn't I would go to autozone and get the relay. Its like $9 from Autozone. Now if that doesn't work My two guesses are fuel pump craping out on ya or the wiring is going bad.

Fuel pumps are alittle bit expensive so I would go out and get the Casper fuel pump hotwire kit and hook it up, it bypass all the stock wiring. If the car runs it the wire and your done, if it doesn't then the fuel pump is shot.

Fuel pressure should be 48-55 psi at the fuel rail, with the key on and the pump running.

Sounds like an issue with fueling. I would check the fuel pump, injectors, filter, etc...

I'd check fuel pressure first.

Black arrow is that a reliable quote on the fuel pressure? If so I'll add it to the FAQ section.

Yep, fuel pressure spec is from the '98 GM Service Manuals, and applies to S/C 3800 fuel systems. Fuel pressure spec for NA 3800 is 41-47 psi. If the fuel system drops more than 5 psi in 10 minutes, check for leaks in one or more of the following areas: Fuel pump check valve, flex pipe (part of pump assembly), valve or valve seat in the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injector(s). Inspect the fuel lines for leaks or obstructions as well.
When checking fuel pressure, bear in mind that the pump only runs for about 2 seconds with the key on. It may be necessary to cycle the ignition off for 10 seconds, then back on to get an accurate reading at the gauge.

I would check or replace the fuel filter first, since they tend to get overlooked during routine maintenance.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I am going to pick up a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and see what i can find out. Actually, yesterday i put a full bottle of seafoam in with my 1/4 tank of gas and after starting the car and revving it to keep it going for a couple minutes, when i let off it idled fine and i left it running for a half hour, and ever since it's started up fine and never had any problems, but who's to say it wont happen again.. I doubt the seafoam would have cleaned my fuel system that quickly so I'm sketchy about driving it long distances, I don't want to get stranded. But without the problem occuring now, i'm not so sure I will be able to tell much with a pressure gauge. Who knows though, I'll keep in touch. Thanks again!

Replace the fuel filter; your fuel pump will thank you..

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