Well yesterday was 63 degrees again so I decided to tackle the rotors, brake pads and calipers. I ordered the rotors from ebay by R1 rotors with the drilled and slotted ones with raybestos brake pads and painted the calipers red. I took pictures but I won't be able to put them up until friday or saturday coming because of my work schedule.

The stopping power of these brakes are real nice and tight. I barely tap the brakes and scared the crap out of me.(this was the first time I used the brakes)

Be easy on them for awhile so they "break in" or they will give you problems in the future. Most manufacturers recommend five or six 60-10 easy stops. Do not let the car stop. Easy pressure on the pedal, get down to ten and accelerate letting the brakes cool some before the next stop.

from PowerSlot:

10 each: 35-5 medium stops with 1-2 minutes between stops, never coming to a complete stop

5-6 each: 55-10 hard stops with 1-2 minutes between stops, never coming to a complete stop

drive for 5 minutes to allow brakes to cool.

continue driving for 500 miles to allow wear-in.

after that 500 miles, do the bed-in process again to complete the break-in process.

Okay, glad ya'll told me because I sure didn't know about the break in period, thanks.

no problem, anything I can do to help.

The key is don't sit with the hot brakes and the pedal engaged. The hot gases won't be able to escape and will be absorbed into the pads effectively glazing them over and rendering them useless.

I never heard the drive 500 miles and rebed the brakes.

On those 55-10 stops do as many as it takes for the rotors to take on a nice light blue hue. At that point the rotors have been brought to the right temp for bedding.

FYI, I've read that modern brake pads don't release gases nearly as much as the old ones did. The gases were the reason for drilling rotors in the first place. With modern pads, you're better off going with solid (non-D/S) rotors (except for aesthetics).

I'm gonna hafta find the procedures that came with my new rotors, scan, and post. I understand that I am not being called a liar, but it sure would be nice for validation, right?

when I did mine I looked it up online. That's how I found the coloring.

so do yu have Fbody brakes, or are they standard size GP rotors, but drilled/ slotted?

I had drilled/slotted on my 2nd GT with Fbody brakes. now on my current GT I have Fbody brakes, but just normal Fbody rotors.

I did not notice any difference in braking from standard to slotted. the Fbody brakes alone are well worth the money though.

I have stock size.

Drilled/slotted won't reduce or improve braking on a DD type drive. They are meant for high abuse multiple heavy braking to help prevent brake fade.

Only time most people will experience brake fade is if they drive down a mountain without downshifting and ride the brakes the whole way.

Best bang for the buck braking improvement is stainless braided brake lines.

Were could I find some stainless braided brake lines and how it improves braking herc.

ZZP sells them.

Stock rubber hoses bulge when you press the brake pedal, especially as they age. This translates to a lower pressure at the caliper. Stainless steel won't flex/bulge like rubber, so you get full pressure at the caliper. This will also make a big difference in pedal feel.

Okay thanks for the info. So since I only replace the front do I just get the lines for the front only or on all 4 of them.