So for a week and a half I been putting this off, getting worse and annoys the heck out of me.
So I go to inspect today and see the passenger rotor is being shaved near outter edge.
Happens when I turn left.
So I take the well off and see the caliper grinding at the rotor.
I wiggle the the axel and hub, it moves slightly turning clockwise/counter, thats normal.
However, it moves 1/4" to 1/2" in and out.
I took off driver side and that side does not move in and out.
Is my axle nut loose?? Is hub bad again??

Going get a 36mm socket from store to see if nut loose.

So back when I replaced them both hubs I used rented short socket, nice to know I got long socket kit now

Lesson learned. Longer socket and torque!!

Crap, now the grinding has worsened. Happens during braking, and sort of steering left, and slight grinding just rolling down the road.

Any suggestions?

Put car on stands. No play in wheel at all, caliper is clear of rotor. I put in drive, wheel spins freely no noise. However, the passenger wheel won't spin until accelerator is pressed. Once depressed, wheel stops sliming instantly. Think that's just pads touching rotor to much.
But grinding on rotor, I'm stumped. Take it to shop Monday

Holy lots of posts batman.

I really have no help for you. Is there a way of adjusting the distance the caliper is from the rotor?

Mechanic called said a caliper pin is ceased

hm... caliper pin being the long guide pin that allows the caliper to slide back and forth? I've been having the same issue I think.

I believe that is what he is talking about.
I did push on the upper and seen it move, but I didn't inspect the lower, which could be what he is talking about.

My thoughts are as follows;
I didn't torque axle nut down to 118ftlbs.
Nut was loose or got loose and allowed hub to wobble, which in turned possible ceased the caliper pin.
Once I tightened the axle nut, that little leway that created some grind noise is now gone because there is no play and that means caliper bracket closer to rotor creating more noise than when axle nut was loose.
But that is my guesstimation of the scenario.
He was getting a new bracket for it today.

Mechanic replaced bearing and caliper pins.
Said the caliper pin was a SOB to get out.
Guess was bent inside the sleeve.
Hopefully runs well.
She's been done a week.
Gosh how much I love the car to be back!!

Interesting... The last guy who worked on my brakes decided for some reason to modify both the bottom pad retainers... Clipped or broke the piece that stretches between the two pads. As a result, my brakes have been squeaking ever since. Need to take care of that. I'll take a look at the pins at the same time. I know when they went on originally they looked okay, but it's possible they're slightly bent and I just didn't notice.

The calipers pins can seize inside the sleeve if they don't get greased during a brake job. Since it's a sliding assembly, a thin layer of grease applied where the caliper meets the bracket will keep them sliding smoothly. Be sure to clean any rust from the area first. I would always grease the pins, sleeves and the caliper to bracket surfaces.
At the shop we kept a tub of Permatex ultra disc brake caliper lube on hand, great stuff!

Thanks Blackarrow, little late though. $100 out my pocket for bearing, pin, and lugs swap.
Outcommision due to wrist arthroscopy

Good tip about calipers -> caliper brackets lube, I made sure to clean and lube the pins, but not where those two meet...