Well to start things off My drivers side window decided to not roll up after I stopped at the ATM this morning. Needless to say it was raining. So I send it home with the wife because I was supposed to leave today. Well once I get to work I find out the plane isn't ready so I should go home. Ok at least I can work on my car now. Well the wife comes back to pick me up and tells me the dash lights aren't working. Gravy now I have a short somewhere on my truck that's eating fuses for the tailights. So I start with the car to at least get the window up so the car is at least driveable in inclement weather. Well I couldn't test the switch because my mutlimeter is busted and doesn't want to read. I do know the motor works when you push the down button. How do I know because I took the whole contraption apart to move the window up. Once the motor was removed from the regulator I plugged the motor in and pushed the button I have rotation on the down side of the switch but nothing on the upside. So without a meter I am assuming I have a bad switch (I'd get a new meter but my local stores are out if you can believe that)what do you all think?

Now for that regulator oh man oh man. It's cable operated and when I took the motor off the cables came off the spool and I can't figuere out how to rig it so when I get my original problem fixed my window will be usable. Right now I got it set so the window won't fall and left the motor unplugged. If any one has any clue on how to rig that stupid thing PLEASE SHARE!!!!!!!!!

Geez... Herc, you're having one of those days. Have a cold one.

Sounds like a switch on the window. Can you run a hot wire to the "UP" position of the switch? If the switch is the only thing that's bad, the window should go up with a hot wire connected to the hot of the UP on the switch, basicaly bypassing the switch directly to hot, correct?

Sorry to hear someone's car is possesed too...well try it after a cold mexican beer

Well I found a meter I put it on the switch and I get 12.3 volts in both diretions. How ever motor only runs one direction well it did only run one direction now it don't run at all. In my efforts to remove the motor from the gearbox one of the brushes came out and I can't get it back together I never did figuere out the rigging on the cables. So when I return from my trip I'm gonna replace the regulator and motor. Hopefully the regulator is pre rigged. So as a temp fix I tied cable that pulls the window up to the door frame so at least the car can be driven in wet weather.

Now I have to find out why my truck keeps blowing the tail light fuse. Hopefully it's just a corroded light socket.

I bet it is!

Is this why there are so many GP window regulators for sale on eBay?...I checked my Haynes manual and it gives no procedure whatsoever for replacing a power window motor...and the only info I gives on window regulators is for a manual lift window...this sounds like one of those dealer conspiracies.

Herc,

To me it just sounded like the contacts on the switch just wore down and were not making contact, but now with the motor unspooled you may have to buy a new if you can't get it back together. It always seemed that the up contacts always wear first. A lesson learned after having a few switches go out.

Gtp Jack

While I had the motor off I plugged my meter into the power feed hit the switch in both directions and got the same voltage on both sides. 10 out 10 times. Pluggd the power lead into the motor worked on the down side and one time I got a slight movement on the up side and then nothing. Unplugged the motor plugged the meter back into the feed and still shows voltage on both sides. I'd have to say that the switch is good.

By the way the window comes out very easily.

The reason I tried to take the motor off in the first place I was hoping to twist the gearbox by hand to get the window up. Take note do not open the gearbox where the cables enter unless you know how to wind it back up. You'd think it would be straight forward. It probably is but not for me.


Found this on ebay. Take a look at the wire running diagnal from corner to corner with the black sleave. Notice how the sleave goes into a stop. On mine all four corners have the fairlead with the long tang on it and my diagonal cable sleave runs to the outside instead of inside the stays like it's supposed to(manufacture defect)I could see rub marks on the regulator from where the cable was improperly routed. The rigging problem I gave myself was where the cables enter the gearbox above the motor.

Sorry about your problems ,and no I do'nt believe you can respool the cable, again another bad design from GM the only fix I've found is to replace the regulator.This happened to me when living in Canada at -35 I whent through a drive through and the window refused to go up I had to drive home in a f--king blizzard with the window down .Chico.

Update.

Window still not fixed. Wife spent all our money on Christmas presents. Go figuere the GTP needs a Christmas gift too.

As for the truck. I think I found my problem. After studying the wiring diagram and tracing all my wires from the rear of the truck to the firewall and not finding anything, I noticed that my front turn signals/parking lights share the same power feed. I pulled off my driver's side marker and what did I find? But a chaffed wire and a spot on the core support where the wire was rubbing and some marks from arcing. I fixed the wire and added some wire loom to all the wiring up there on both sides. Now I'm off for a drive to make sure it holds and that I don't have another problem.

And the poor cars must suffer...

wow, im glad the back window regulator was replaced when i bought my car! I knew it was bad during the test drive and told them i want it fixed, they put a new motor and regulator in it and works great now... now hopefully the other 3 stay good :-S

The actual labor of replacing the regulator isn't that bad. I'd quote just under an hour to R&R.