"start" button?

I've seen these push to start buttons on eBay a lot lately and I've always thought it would be cool mod to have...especially since I've got an open cubby in the dash right behind the steering wheel on the right (no HUD) So I was thinking a small plate and the button would fit right in and if it were red and illuminated that might be pretty sharp as well.

Unfortunately as I've said before, electrical isnt my strong suit and I certainly dont want to cause issues with the security system. Does anyone have any further knowledge on this?...or has anyone installed one before?
Just thought I'd dig for some info.

omg start buttons are amazing, on my parents nissan, you have a flob thats it, and if you close to the car with the flob you can press a button on the door and it unlocks then you get in and toutch the brake and then push the start button, its so so cool

I have a close friend that installed a push button start on his because the ignition switch in his car stopped working, its pretty cool, just a small silver button, put the key in turn to "on" and press the button to start, if your interested I can have him draw me up a diagram of how he wired everything up.

However, if I was going to do this I wouldnt continue to use the key, I would put in an "arming" switch like in the fighter jets with the red safety covers :p , flip the safety up, arm the ignition, the press the button to start, no need for a key at all

Now THAT would be hella sweet. I'd most definately go for one of those buttons, but i'm absolute garbage at electronics lol .. i was too afraid to splice speaker wire i bought converters off ebay .. not that it matters it saves the wires for future speakers if i need.

*Offtopic* - 4rsssfed , i love that line in your sig " When you HAVE to get groceries FASTER than the competition " .. cracks me up!

I did a set up like this for my daughters preschool teacher. Her 82 mercedes would no longer "start" but it was just an issue with the ignition switch.

basically you need: a switch (obviously) and a relay just to be safe. The starter trigger wire (the one that goes from your current ignition switch to the starter solenoid) just gets cut and a relay is wired in.

add a ground to the relay , and a "run position only" power source to 1 side of the switch you are adding, and then a wire from your added switch, to the relay's trigger.

easy enough? doing it this way means you still need to have your key in the ignition and turned to the "run position"

For those with the chip in the key is it possible to bypass?

I to thought of the push button but if you still have to have the key then why?

I sure that there is a way Herc but its probably more pain than its worth, and yes I agree with you, if key works, why install a button to use lol

I think it should still work with the chip, you still are going to have to put the key in the ignition and turn it to "on". The only question is if the security system will interact. I would guess it would since there is an anti-theft system that will kill the engine. Your buddy didn't have any problems, 4rsss?

Assuming no problems from the anti-theft, jaybur is right. You just need to tie the push-button to your starter.

That's my point if you still have to insert the key then why the extra step to start?


Now some of these new cars that have the proximity key to unlock, prime the ignition and such and have the "start" button now were talkin.


I had a rental in Italy that you inserted the funky shaped fob into a slot and you push the start button. The odd part was you had to push the "start" button to turn the motor off. I scratched my head on that one. It musta been designed by the same folks who did Windows. Since to shut down you have to press "start" LOL.

In any aftermarket push button i have seen, you needed to put the key to the on position first.

I like that little bit of security.

Its a pretty common thing for the Miata guys to do.

Yeah, I agree, Herc. Only point would be if you had a problem with the wiring between your ignition switch and your starter.

It would be very easy to get an RFID scheme set up, if you were motivated. I wouldn't mind helping out if there is interest.

i would love to throw one in.

Just for the wow factor

My buddies 07' altima, the key just has to be within like 3 meters of the interior, or the sensor. Then he presses a button.
I am sure with BlackArrows crazy wiring diagrams we could all work this thing out.
Definitely don't want it easier for thieves though. And using the key in the ignition is lame too.

One of the guys I work with has an 08 Nissan Altima 4 cylindar, and it has keyless start/entry. I'm very jealous of that feature.

the key needs to be used to unlock the steering wheel......... although I know it could be disabled.

lot of messing around just to set something up your ignition key already does.

Like Herc says, what about shutting it down?

If you bypass the key you'll need a toggle switch to kill the ignition.

I'm with ordonez on this one...the button is more of a visual and toy...not really intended to overide anything. I would still want the security of the key and if the anti-theft system is a problem then the idea goes out the window. If it doesnt affect the system then inserting the key to unlock, turn to "on" to arm the ignition and then press "start"...I just think the illuminated red button on the dash adds to the GPs fighter cockpit style (and a cool Bat-gadget)

well just a start button alone would be a pretty straight forward thing to do.

lol THUNDERBAT ON!!!!!!AAWAYYY!!!

I have a vision of Tbat going with the "kit" system

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-u69QZXHwuI

t-bat, you need a kit front bumper light!!!! that would be the coolness

i will ask around the miata forums as to how they do this. it should give some insight

haha miata lol hehehe

but you should look into that pb's are sweet go tbat lol

its a very common mod over there.

Push tbottons are what we used when we did our derby cars but I don't know how it was done, my brother did that part. I suck with electrical work as well, Tbat.

Have to flip a switch for ignition and then push the button to start.

why would you need to see how the guys on the miata forum do it? I think a few people on here (including myself) could tell you exactly what you'd need to do.

but are you really going to do this?

I'll do a start button before I go anywhere near anything having to do with KITT (sorry, just not my fave show ever)

I'll keep an eye peeled on eBay for one that I think has the look I like (especially if its illuminated)...as long as it isnt gonna muck up the security system I'm game for adding it on.

get in car
insert key
switch to "on" to arm all toys and gadgets (including start button coming on)
press "start"
T-Bat rumbles to life as it turns around in driveway on turntable
Blast out of driveway to get to work on time.

yeah, that'll work

Yes, i am.

Do i really have to specifically ask for you to enlighten me?

I think the statement "are you really going to do this?" was aimed at me ordonez...easy fellas...I'm grateful for the help where ever I can get it from. You can never tell where you run across the wealth of knowledge.

I appreciate any effort on both your parts.

I'll be posting back up as soon as I find an acceptable switch,preferably an illuminated one.

If anyone comes up with some specific pointers on what I'll need just let me know.

Thanks guys

Here's a diagram of the starting circuit:

So I'm guessing the yellow wire needs to be split and attached to either pole of the button switch?

this is how I would wire it. I like to use relays because then the switch doesn't have to carry the load, and you can choose from more switches.

The yellow wire you cut coming FROM the ignition switch gets taped off since it won't be used the side you cut that goes TO the harness gets connected to the relay.

I wouldn't mind trying this also, hate to take your idea away though.
Probably just need wiring diagram, via BlackArrow!!

???

or you could look at Jaybur's post right above yours..lol

and blackarrow already posted a diagram

thanks ordonez,

yea black arrow posted up the entire starting system diagram.

I posted up a diagram of how to wire a switch into that circuit.

what else are you looking for? lol.

I didn't see page 3 until I posted. Sorry fellas.

You're forgiven this time. Dont let it happen again.

you wont be "stealing" any idea...if you can pull it off and works fine without other issues that just reassures me that it will work ...and if it doesnt, I have no problem learning from your mistakes

Evil Bat!

The worst that could happen by splicing into the yellow wire, is either one of the main ignition fuses will pop, or the dash will catch fire, no big deal...

Found this quick search:

http://www.gallotech.com/

http://www.gallotech.com/products.php

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=148597

http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=176637

sounds like a cool idea, From working at the dealership i know that you can "hide" a key for autostart for the cars with the pass(chip) keys, but you still need an actual key in the ignition to un lock the steering wheel, unless of course you disable that, but then again it is a theft deturent, but it is still a cool idea!!

I will be the guinea pig if you want TBat.
What or which relay??

I cut the orange wire and put a relay between them. amazingly no fires or popped fuses!!

are you saying that as a precaution so that people who have no prior experience don't go hacking into their wiring? Because putting a relay between 2 cut wires is not going to start a fire.....

what kind of relay do you reccomend for it? A link would be nice, ive done minor electrical stuff (gauges, speakers, etc.) but nothing with relays and switches. especially not with the ignition system.


edit: this diagram seems to be different?
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=...de=1&s=#2719676

something like this would work just fine.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-073

yea you are right, I guess it was early when I drew up my diagram.

it simply just wouldnt work unless you held the key in the "start" position AND pushed the button at the same time.

I am surprised black arrow didn't catch that!

I will update it shortly.

good catch ordonez

I have electrical experience, but looknig at complicated diagrams I don't like.

I looked at the one on clubgp that ordonez linked to, and its a good idea, but its NOT necessary to tap into the cluster harness. The guy did that so once the car is running, the starter can't continue to try starting. Letting off the button works too.

HOWEVER, should your push button switch get stuck down, your starter would continue to turn over, of course IF that did happen, you could just turn off the ignition switch. (that is why its important to connect the power source to a source that is also switched OFF by the ignition switch!

Another point to make is if you are going to get into this project, you might as well do the "ignition saver mod".

Although I don't have any problems wiring things (I used to do it for a living on buses). I guess I should also be careful on what I call "easy".
I'd really hate to see someone ruin there car by not doing things properly (twisting wires together and taping them is NOT the right way!) Spend some money on QUALITY connectors, and the proper tools to get the wires stripped, and crimpers for the connectors.

and MOST important, is if you don't feel comfortable doing this, DO NOT do it then!

I'll be honest that I havent felt comfortable doing pretty much anything electrical on cars except the very simple things like lights or speakers. I'm with jaybur big time on the whole deal of connectors and plugs as opposed to twisting wires...just safer all the way around.

We all have to learn sometime...I know couple other members have given out phone numbers to provide some one-on-one tech support for some projects but that is a personal & privacy issue taken by the provider of info if they wish to go there.
The diagram from clubgp "Backin Black" seems slightly more complex but that guy has proven he knows his cookies...one of those "building a laser rifle is childs play" types...I envy him enough to hate him

As long as the guys with the knowledge dont mind answering the "dumb questions" from us elec noobs, I think this is a doable project. eBay wouldnt sell so many of them if it was all that hard...and I havent seen Miatas or S2000s bursting into flames either.

I was joking when I made the comment, however I do remember a customer's '99 Grand Prix in which the Yellow wire of the ignition harness was hacked (and I do mean Hacked!) apart, and speaker wire was used by someone to install an aftermarket alarm system, using twist n' tape technology. Said install blew one of the main ignition fuses, causing the car to be towed in and repaired.
At the customer's request, the alarm system was removed and the ignition switch harness was replaced. He had just bought the car, and didn't know about the alarm, which was an accident waiting to happen. (and did.. )

I posted the starting circuit diagram for you guys to play around with, and it's not my job to catch anyone's mistakes...

this onelooks like it would fit the bill...
start button

that switch looks good the "12V 16 amp" is all I was looking for. Especially if you use a relay the amperage won't have to be very high, but the higher amp load it can handle the better in my opinion.

I can handle automotive and bus wiring, but what I still don't understand is how to open up a broken tv and finding the problem. I think people that know how to find the problem on complex circuitry are the real electronics gurus.

Blackarrow seems to be very knowledgeable with wiring, as well as the guy on clubgp.

And I too have seen hacked up wiring jobs and wondered why a fire had not occurred due to the crappy wiring.

also I don't want to work against anyone, and would hope people wouldn't want to work against me. so if anyone has comments or questions post them up in a respectable manner so they can be worked out.

and just in case anyone missed what I said earlier in the post, I HAVE installed a push button start set up already, on my daughters old preschool teachers mercedes (1982). Its still working great, and its been about 8 months now.

her situation required one because the "start" position on her car was no longer working.

Ignition saver mod???

Yes, Tbat, that is a switch I would use.
Did you happen to check out the links I posted.
The scion guy used that one, plus his video is on one of the sites I posted.
I am highly capable of doing this, as long as I know which wires do what.
I didn't get why he taped into cluster harness either.

is there an update?

I think its a cool idea for what he did tapping into the cluster harness, its just not necessary.

as far as the ignition saver mod:
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=3971796&p=1&tmode=1&smode=1

and I did update the diagram on page 3, I just edited the post.

What's the reason for the cluster harness?

And in your diagram, are you capping the other side of the yellow wire like black did?

Bought two relays from there.
The shipping was $2.73. Asked if I wanted free catalog, I clicked ok. Well shipping jumped to $11.xx. I cancelled free catalog, lol!
Radioshack wants $6.99 a piece, not including tax.
Got 2 for $6.11

yes. the original diagram I had up would have worked, but you would have had to hold the key in the "start" position AND hit the button.

the new diagram only requires the key to be in the "run" position, using only the "start" button to start the car.

and as far as what he did with the cluster harness:

the relay needs a "ground" and a "positive" charge to throw the internal switch (its an electromagnet).

he has the "ground" side tied to the white wire which is a "ground" until the PCM notices the alternator working, then it no longer has a "ground" (the pcm shuts it off)

so once you remove either the positive Or the negative from the "trigger" part of the relay, the internal switch is turned "off".

In his case, either letting off the button, OR the pcm sensing the alternator is working, will turn off the relay trigger. So even if you held the button down while the car was running, it would not trigger the relay, therefore the starter would not operate.

like I said, its a cool idea, but not "necessary".

This is a VERY basic diagram of how a relay works. (SPST _ single pole, single throw)

you have your Main power in and out (pin 87 and pin 30).

you have your trigger power (+ and - ) (Pin 86 and Pin 85)

when you "trigger" the relay, the electromagnet forces the contact pad (the " T " in the diagram) to touch the 87 and 30, therefore completing the circuit.

Another question.
Can I still turn the key to run position and start the car?
You know in case someone needs to take the car and doesn't know about the push to start feature...Or for some emergency reason, or the switch fails and I am not at home.

well I am sure it could be done.....

I bet instead of cutting the start wire, you could just tap into it. therefore able to use the key OR the start button.

only issue I see is that you'd be sending power to the "start" contact point in the ignition switch as well as to the starter (while using the "start" button).

I don;t think that would be an issue, maybe blackarrow can chime in on this....

you should it like have a remote start, i can either use the remote or manually use the key

actually I have a 2nd option.

cut the wire, but connect the wire FROM the ignition switch to terminal 87A. this terminal is normall "closed" (connected), so under normal situations you could use the key, but if you used the button, it would trip the switch in the relay and would only send power to the starter, since 87A would be "open" (not connected) when the relay is triggered.

that would work too

I need a final working diagram! lol
So instead of the red going to 87 go to 87A?

let me draw one up for you, to make it easier

Sweet. I take it that the yellow wires were 1 and now are cut and put at 87A and 30?
Order has been placed.

I have no problems doing this, I just want to make sure that I am doing the right splicing and cutting to the right wires.

^ Yep!

Now to figure out where to put it.
THought about next to heat seat swith, or right down near the ignition area, on the declined dash.

Just make sure you use the same diameter of wire as the yellow wire to go from the orange to pin 87.

I always recommend the heat shrink style connectors. they look just like regular connectors, except after you Crimp the connector onto the wire, you heat the plastic and it shrinks tot he size of the wire, it also has glue in it, making it basically a permanent connection, and no risk of the wire loosening up and pulling out. they should be available at most hardware stores.

back in black has some cool stuff on his web page, here is something in particular that will help you guys on this mod:

http://www.backinblackgp.com/Tap_And_Splice.htm

1) So if you get a non-illuminated button, you dont need that ground off of the button? Just the ground directly off of the relay?

2) From 87, the wire goes to the 12v in and to the orange wire? so just splice that into 2 wires?

3) What is the orange wire?

Yes.
Yes.
And it is the accessory wire taping into. Turns the power on to the switch for light and also gives switch power, so when you press it, it goes to 12v out and to the relay.

I'm gettin this slowly...but I think I'm gettin it. If either of you move forward on this mod, the rest of us would truly appreciate some pics on your "how to".

jaybur's diagrams and blackarrows circuit schematic are great explanation tools (and their expertise is both recognized and commended)...but a little real world practical application pics really put things like this into prespective.

20gtp02...I did checkout the links and they are a real step inthe right direction except for the guy with the Toyota with his cut-n-twist.

Thanks so much to everyone for so much input on this mod (dont this board jus kick azz?)

THe parts have been ordered. Maybe have pics by end of the week, weekend, whenever the parts arrive!
Should be cake, really, if the wires are who they say they are!

1.) right, a NON illuminated button only has 2 pins, and its just in and out (ignore the ground for non illumintated.

2.) Yea, you will need to splice into the orange wire, and also splice again to connect to the switch "in". (If you have the non illuminated switch there is no "in" or "out" either one works.)

3.) the orange wire is an accessory wire, meaning it runs all the accessories when in the "run" position.

here is the connector I am referring to, you can see the large red and yellow wires to the left. the large yellow one is the starter wire. The large orange one to the upper right is the accessory wire.



I did the ignition saver mod, so you can see my relay in this picture. You can see that where the wire connector is, there is the glue sticking out. Its dry, it dries in a few minutes. great connectors though!



Another shot of the connector.

Wow, that is some fat cable to splice up...better check with the local parts store before I proceed any farther. I'll need the proper connectors as well as a relay.

So a 30/40 amp relay and the same amp inline fuse for the orange acc wire?

they make an inline fuse holder so you can just splice one end of that into the orange, and the other to the relay and switch.

The connectors will need to be 10 gauge, and its a common size.

30/40 amp relay is right, and is one of the most common sizes. The 30/40 applies to the poles on the relay. 2 different ratings. but it would be my choice for this mod.

as far as the fuse size I will look into it and post back.

inline fuse holder:


heat shrink connectors

the wire going INTO the switch does not need to be 10 gauge. 18 gauge would be fine.

you should be able to sneak an 18 gauge WITH the 10 gauge wire into the connector (2 wires into 1 connector) that will go onto the relay of pin 87. and run that 18 gauge wire to the switch IN and you can run 18 gauge wire to the relay trigger pin 86.

that should make it easier to do.

The more questions you guys ask, the more fine tuned the diagram can get.

im liking how the diagram is getting more and more specific. It really helps. Im sure i will have more questions. Thanks man!

Im going to autozone for some headgaskets and headbolts this week, i might check out some of the stuff there.

I ordered up the switch last night but work is gonna be crazy for the next two weeks so I'll be keeping an eye peeled on this thread. I'll try and get the other stuff from a local parts store. I dont think Advance or Autozone will be much help since most of their counter personel arent very knowledgable.

It might be a while before i get mine in. I need to get the car running first, and once im sure all of the electrical gremlins are taken care of, then i can add more of my cutting and splicing to the mess.

You can get the relay offline, much cheaper. I paid $7 or less for two relays shipped.
Locally you'll pay that for 1 relay.
Tbat, where do you plan to mount the switch?

im gonna move my hud over to the left side of the steering wheel and throw the button where the HUD is now.

since my car doesnt have the HUD the cubby to the right of the steering wheel is where I plan to locate mine.

From looking at the pics provided I just had an ugly little revelation...this is gonna be one of those lay on your back with the brake pedal knocking you in the head while you twist and try to work 12 inches in front of your face.

I can feel my back hurting already
Still gonna be a cool mod tho.

i got a relay and 2 feet of 10awg wire from partsexpress today for 5 bucks, shipped.

Now i have to find a button that i like... for cheap. Anyone know of some older cars that might be at the junkyard that i could find a button out of?

Actually.....

If you look at the picture of the connector, you can unbolt it (disconnect battery first!) and then you will have more room to work on it. I did that when I did the ignition saver mod.

I noticed the bolt when I looked at the pics and was wondering that very thing...thank you very much for confirming that can be done.

Now I'm mentally grinding on how I can add a flat piece of stock over the cubby hole and how to attach it. I'm sure once I take the dash panel off I'll get that one figured out. I'm gettin hyped about doing this but next week will be as soon as I can take crack at it. We'll have two guys in class next week and one on vacation so overtime will be abundant...but thats cool, a big week like that can probably help pay for my new wheels.

if you need to you, and it will take no more then an extra 30min and save your back but you can disconnect that whole harness and do all the work outside of the car.

What size fuse you suggest?
I may just do a 15 or 10, but that might be too low.

If you use a relay any momentary switch will do. Even a toggle switch.

I think you will need to run a 30 amp fuse.

the MAIN red wire coming IN to the ignition switch is protected by a 40 amp fuse. but that also takes care of all the accessories that run off the Orange accessory wire.

you do not absolutely NEED a fuse, BUT should something go wrong, a fuse is much cheaper than replacing melted wires.

and Hercman is right, any momentary switch will work, but what is a momentary switch? It is a switch that you have to HOLD in the on position, once you let off, the switch stays in the "OFF" position.

it is important to know that because I have seen switches at radio shack that are always "on" until you hold it in the "off" position. and you probably do not want your starter spinning constantly unless you are pushing down on a button.... lol

Isn't a toggle switch switch on and off, not momentary on or off?, even if using a relay.
Won't it continue to supply the power?

some toggle switches can be momentary, but make sure the one you get IS momentary!

i was just hoping to find a cheap push button start out of a car at the junkyard

most switches in a car are going to be ON/OFF and not momentary.

this is the switch I used in the preschool teachers car. this one is not lighted, and it doesn't exactly look "cool". but it works.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062501

"Whatever you do, don't press that red button!"
HAHAHA

isnt the red button normally the "eject" button?

I would advise against putting the "start" and "eject" buttons side by side........

Eject is usually a black and yellow banded handle LOL.

nice, I wonder if I could install that in the grand prix, call it the mother in law ejector? lol j/k.

the bad date mod.

the james bond GP...ejector seat and all...LOL

got the shipping notice for my start button, should have it soon

Everything for my order has been shipped, except the button itself.

I cant pull the trigger on which one i want.
Im trying to find one that has this look
but with red

Sweet look Corey.
Hey Tbat I got the switch today, Saturday.
I am awaiting the relays. Which is weird since I ordered them a week ago today, last saturday.
Site says fast shipping.
No tracking or anything, just confirmation email through parts-express. I can't find a way to locate the shipping on it.

Jaybur: I can just disconnect negative and go to town right? No need disconnect positive?

Yeah, its gonna be cool if i can find that button. It doesn't seem to exist.

They ship via USPS, so there is no up to date tracking info. I have a tracking number from them, but it doesn't do me much good.

I went with 4-5 day i think. thought it would be here.
Going to mod my switch, looks cheap and ricer like right now.
The one Tbat posted in an earlier post I got.

Mine showed up last night...a little smaller than I thought it would be but it should still work.

looks like a xbox 360 power on.....people there jsut change the color of the bulb. mines red on my 360

yes, that's what I'm looking for, but the Xbox button is huge. I'm looking for a smaller one, but the same design on it.

http://www.rfidtoys.net/

enjoy.

this will get you the system for rfid control. just change the circuit to the ignition circuit and you are in business. I have a buddy who did this to his truck. toss the key fob in the cup holder and push the start button. once the truck has been started you can remove the fob. very slick

{quote]Jaybur: I can just disconnect negative and go to town right? No need disconnect positive[/quote]

that is correct.

new caddys have a on button like that so do aston martims DB9's

Got my relay and wiring today. Just need the button now

WTF, I ordered my relay before you.

I'm just awesome

Called them, my order is showing up blank!

Spend the extra dollar or three and go to the store and buy a relay.

HAHA. Well I spoke to them and they are sending it out free shipping now by friday.

i dont mean to make it over-complicated but would it be possible to do what some of the nissan maximas do and have just the keyfob be in your pocket and the button will work instead of having to use a priming switch?

that would just be cool

http://www.rfidtoys.net/

Still need to do something about the ignition lock, unless you don;t plan on driving the car around.


ordonez1307

What specifically are you linking to?

Yah, I clicked that link when someone else posted it, doesn't link to what is mentioned.

rfid toys is a how to book for rfid projects. I actually have it if any one wants to see what its about I can scan the chapters pertaining to cars to PDF.

its a great book if you are looking to do this kind of thing.

as far as the RFID proximity sensor like nissan uses.

these are very expensive and fairly complex. it does have a good write up and project in RFID toys on these types of systems but it is not for the faint at heart.

active RFID systems like this require custom code as well to integrate with other systems. it can be done but its not going to be easy.

I have used many of the projects as starting points for projects for work (network/systems administrator). specifically to control our access gates and secure areas door locks.

the book provides very detailed step by step instructions that explains why you are doing certain things as well. this makes it easy to take a little bit from each project to develop your own systems to meet your needs.


one thing i have considered doing is using an rfid system in the car for this purpose that would act very much like nissans proximity sensor.

explanation:

have an rfid reader in the door as well as the center console or seat.

keep rfid card in your wallet

when your wallet gets close to the door less than a foot away the door unlocks.

when you sit in the seat the rfid card is read and triggers the car to the start position.

press the start button and away you go.

this system would cost about $200-$300 bucks but would require some real engineering to pull off...

I would be willing to put the time in to it if I had the time....

how cool would it be to not need to carry any keys any more.

you could rig the trunk the same way and the door to your house (doors are extremely easy and cheap to do if you have 110v near by)


I might have to do the research the more I think about this I want to do it..... it would be awesome

here is a chapter from the book that covers Getting in the front door using a standalone RFID system. to make this work in a car swap the 2 orange wires shown on page 11 soldered to short the dead bolt with the door locks or ignition or what ever you want. the problem is in a car it has to short them and stay shorted or the car will turn off..... essentially you are hot wiring your car on command. (just like a remote start system would as well).

for 16 bucks $25.00 retail the book is well worth picking up if you are at all interested in this stuff....

after going to lunch and thinking it over this would actually be fairly easy to do.

you would have to have a switch that would short all the wires that access the start position (just like if the key was turned to the on position) the rfid would control be linked to the wire for the starter. you would also have a push button for the starter. what this means is that until the rfid system was activated by the fob you could not turn the starter with the buton. you could put the car to the start position but not access the starter at all with out the fob and as long as the starter button was not pressed the starter would not be turning.

thats how you would do this cheaply.

also you would have to break the steering lock. or by pass it some how. but I could see this being done for under 100 bucks easy.

you would have to pick a few of the chapters to get info from but it would be pretty easy.

I would find the instructions for a remote start system to get the wires together and figure out what is needed to start it.

when we installed the remote start in the blazer one of the steps was to basically hot wire the car to make sure we had the right wires. the only reason you cannot dirve off with a remote start system is you connect the brake lights to a port that stops the engine.

Holy crap thats the answer!!!!

install a remote start system dont hook up the brake safety wire, bypass the steering lock some how, take the remote apart and have the rfid short the start button on the remote!!!

have a switch on the dash to interrupt the circuit to kill the car and a button to turn the starter but getting in the car would turn it to the start position.... push the starter drive away. push a second button to kill the engine.




DONE!

I'm glad you guys are rambling on about all this other stuff...the more I read the simpler what I plan to do sounds.

We trying keep it cheap and simple, just add some flavor!

yeah but its nice to have options

also this string will be referenced by many people looking to do this in the future.... best to get as much info as possible....

if I decide to pursue this (seriously considering it) i will sure to make a step by step how to.

I'm going to start with just a push button. It's going to be a big step for me in the electronics department.

just out of curiosity, why would you want a push start button if you still have to use the key to unlock the steering wheel.... just for show?

I mean seems like having an automatic door you have to manually unlock first.

like so many other "show mods" we do...jus cuz its cool

I had a hidden button on a car once that you had to push AND turn the ignition key before it would start.

But I am not personally doing this mod so I can't say really why they want to do it, but its probably like you said, for show.

I mean you could get rid of the ignition switch all together (use a few toggle switches for the accessories, and a push button for start like a race car, in a way.), and have your steering wheel permanently unlocked, but I kind of like that my steering wheel locks.

but if I was personally going to do this mod, I would do it how I just mentioned. but that is me, and I am not recommending anything lol.

The only difference here and the new cars, is the proximity feature of the new cars with the key within close range to activate the button.

well the new cars do unlock the steering wheel automatically as well...

but yeah i guess if you just want it for show.

just a thought, they make finger print readers that are made for this situation. I do not have a price but i have seen them on show cards before.

flip a switch to engage the reader/accessory scan your finger to start it

If I had the time and money for the finger print reader, my car would most likely be the baddest gp out, or I would probably be driving a ZR1 or something, not a gp!

by the time I can "afford" a zr1, I will be the typical 60 year old dude you see behind the wheel.

I cannot find a US importer but here is the manufac's site

http://www.tradekey.com/product_view/id/313016.htm

looks like 200 bucks gets you one.


edit: actually if I read that right 200 bucks gets you 24 of them????

or 200 each for 24? meaning 4800 for 24????

I'm thinking you have to buy 120 sets at $200 a set or 24units a set (unit must be an in store credit thing)

well this is the supplier, I cannot find a store with them yet.

Probably start project today. Found inline fuse holder in electrical drower in garage, but it is 18g wiring. Too small to use you think??

yep too small!

try to find one with 10 gauge wiring.

it is not "necessary" for a fuse to be there, since the circuit already has a fuse.

sometimes I am just over cautious, so its up to you.

the in line fuse holders are normally only a couple bucks.

Got one with #12 leads. Better than the 18 I had, off to tackle it now!!!

I'm jealous that you get to start it! I don't get to do mine for a while!

HAHA, I am already confused.
Adding the relay in throws me off.

just follow the numbers, like a paint by number picture!

So two wires from 87, one go top green, other go bottom yellow (lumination). correct?

I wouldn't even bother with the instructions. I would just go off of what Jaybur has told us.

Correct, but the switch has four locations, not three. I just want to make sure before I blow something up! lol
I guess the yellow side needs accessory wire to power lamp...

87 is the "input" but also a 2nd line (the 18 gauge) goes to the illumination of the switch.

reason for this is so your push button switch "illumination" won't come on until you turn the key in the ignition to the ON position.

the reason the switch has 4 positions is because the bulb is separate from the switch's terminals.

So I'll have two wires from 87 going to ignition part of switch, and the other to the yellow illumination part of switch. I believe this is what you are saying.

Here is a custom diagram for you! you will probably have to do a 2nd splice, I doubt 3 wires will fit in 1 10-12 gauge connector.

Exactly what I thought!
Thanks.
Just have to wire into orange wire and hook up the yellow to 30 and 87A

sweet! I will be back later to see your results, have to take off for a while.

Ok, here goes the fire up....*crosses fingers*

Pics and vid up later! (hopefully if all goes well)