need very detailed instructions

i need some instructions to install my dhp pcm to my 2000 gtp, i do have instrutions that came with the pcm from pfyc and i e-mailed them and asked for better instructions and they said that was it, so if anyone here knows how to install it and the mods needed, or if there is a site i can go to, to research it more, it would be great, i only want instuctions from someone who knows how 100 percent please.

take apart the air box ... unplug the old and then install the new then take to the local dealer to get a case learn done so you dont get a check engine light

Open the airbox, and you'll see the PCM.

It's two bolts. Undo them, pull out the wiring harnesses, put em back in the new PCM, and tighten the bolts. Simple as that.

THATS WHAT I NEED INSTRUCTIONS TO DO, THE CASE LEARN, THATS JUST RESETING THE PCM RIGHT, I HAD TRIED THAT TODAY AND REALLY SCREWED IT UP CUZ I DIDENT HAVE THE PROPER INSTRUCTIONS, BUT ITS FUNNY, I WAS TOLD THE NOISE IM HEARING AFTER TRYING TO RESET MY PCM, THE TICKING NOISE WHEN I TURN THE KEY TO ON IS ON BOTH SIDES ON THE MOTOR, I WAS TOLD ITS RELAYS, SO CAN I DO A RESET MYSELF?

wth, you can't do a case learn on your own, it's not just resetting the PCM, it has something to do with the crank sensor. the dealer or someone who has a tech2 will have to do it

No need to yell........

First I would like to say, I hope you disconnected the battery.....

The case learn can only be done with a tuner, or by your dealer..... If the PCM came in the mail, it had several days to "reset". Heck, even if you swapped from car to car, it should be down long enough to reset.
The Case Learn isn't always necessary, and wouldn't cause a ticking sound if you needed it done, it would set a Check Engine light and you would go from there.
The ticking you're hearing may be the injectors.

(edit)If you're hearing noises while the engine is running it may be the injectors. If you're hearing them while the engine is off, it is relays actuating motors, and sensors, and such. If it doesn't stop, try disconnecting the battery for about 20 minutes and try again.(/edit)

ive done that already 2 weeks ago, installed my intake already, but now im being told i should have done a reset to my pcm afterwards, is this true?

ok you are getting two topics mixed up, lol, i havent installed the dhp pcm yet, i have installed my intake, and i was told to reset my pcm after doing that, so i tried but i failed, i dident do something right, but i did exactly what people said last night, but i think there is more to it then just that, and so after i reconnected the neg batt cable when i went to start the car it wouldent, twice, and when i just turn the key to the on position it would start ticking really fast for half a sec, and its coming for both sides of the motor, but no when the car is running its fine, so are you saying try do it again? or only try it again if its ticking when its running? cuz it only does it quick and stops while car is not running, but yes i keeps doing it every time i went to start the car

smart A*** lol

Check your battery cable connections; maybe they are loose.

yeah ok but when reconected it today it sparked is this normal, thats all id need to happen to me today is to get zapped, that would really put the cherry on top for all that has happened to me today, is it ok to tighten them with my ratchet?

Not to sound like a jerk, but it seems that YOU are getting 2 topics mixed up.... This topic is about installing a DHP PCM..... If you didn't change PCM's there is NO reason to get a Case Learn done.... It's just a matter of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes to reset it, which it sounds like you've done......

YEAH BUT NOW ITS TICKING, WHEN KEY IN ON, sorry caps again, and will i get zapped if i go outside now and tighten the batt cables

Sorry, dont mean to ruffle anyones feathers but... ...that is without a doubt the most inventive way I have ever seen that put...two big thumbs up


...as far as topic is concerned, there is no need to do a pcm reset after installing a CAI...if you get a "check engine" light then go to AutoZone and have them do a quick scan and they can clear it for you. As long as you disconnect the battery first (and leave it for at least 15mins)...then your new PCM should be plug-n-play...once again if you get a SES light have it scanned and see where you are.

There is nothing complicated about installing the PCM. Again:
disconnect a battery terminal.
swap PCMs.
reconnect battery terminal.
IF the check engine light comes on, you may need a case learn. worry about that later.
You really can't screw this up.

Also, resetting the PCM is NOT a case learn, as crimpton said.
IF you need one, and IF you go to a dealer to have it done, be careful to inform them not to overwrite the PCM. They do that a lot and it basically turns your $$ DHP into a stock PCM.


As far as the off-topic topic goes:
I can't beleive you haven't reset your PCM already after all that commotion yesterday about the CAI and whatnot! Don't worry about it now, just install the DHP and call it good.

i did reset it i think, but after there is clicking now, every time i turn the key to on it clicks under the hood, people say its my batt cables are loose, but after reseting it dident seem to change the performance of the intake, is it supossed too? and if so how long do i have to drive until i get the full performance from it?

and it might be complicated to reinstall cuz i have an alarm system, and should i add all the mods first before changing the pcm?

Doing the PCM before other mods won't hurt. If you did the pulley before anything else, that wouldn't be good.


Honestly you probably won't notice a performance different with the intake. Its more of a helper for your other mods, all working together. As far as the length of time, give it a couple days for the PCM to fully adjust fueling/timing. Also make sure you're using premium gas, although you already should be with the GTP. Use highest grade (within reason).


Dunno what your clicking could be. If its a fast, constant clicking, it seems like injectors pulsing, which would be strange. I've had that happen on a series-I 3800 that I was working on. Turned out to be filthy coil pack / ign module contacts.

nope its when the car is off, just in the on position, and it just clicks really fast on both side of the motor, but people said it could be the battery, why would it be clicking on both sides?

LOL@ beating an equine.

OMG what the h-ll most of what I've read does'nt make a whole lot of sense ,not to be too harsh but you are making Canadians look "doh" .And please do'nt try any real engine work eg: cam swap or even rockers.Chico. :rolleyes:

AHHHH!!! this thread is so messed up its not funny!

I thought after all that went on yesterday you would have disconnected your battery! No you wont get zapped, just dont grab the negative and the positive terminals at the same time!

Just go install the PCM. enough people have told you how simple it is. Disconnect the battery and do it

Its 12VOLTS, I don't think it is not going to hurt worse than a bee sting if you get zapped! And it is normal because you are connecting metal to an electrical source, the negative is the return line to the battery. There is more than plenty of GPs here that know their @$#%, you know. Even the first reply you get is going to be pretty much your answer. Most of these folks have been around a long time. I believe you keep talking to the wrong crowd (your grandfather and uncle) about this car and they don't know about the GP. So take this advise when you get it and don't say otherwise.

I've probably changed more batteries than anyone on this forum, seeing as it's part of my job. I have yet to be shocked by one. Disconnect the negative cable first and you can't get shocked. It even makes it impossible to short out the positive on anything except the negative battery terminal.

You will NOT feel 12 volts unless its across your tonque! HAHA.
I guess I'll save a new post and mention that it will likely spark when disconencting and connecting the battery -- don't worry about that. Low voltage / high current = spark that can't zap you.
The only thing in your car that can zap you is the coils/ignition wires. Just don't pull those off, haha.

Guys, its not the volts that hurt at all. Its the amperes.

Amperage above about 10A will kill a man. 550-750 like our batteries are pushin can kill a whole buncha men. at once.

frequency is what burns. Higher frequency, faster tissue burn.

Voltage is how much potential, um...think force behind a push, that the signal/power flow has.

The resident engineers here, if you would, either correct or agree with these statements. One thing for sure: disconnect the bloody neg terminal, dont hold on to the pos term, and do the durn thing

Yeah, a 12 volt battery can push 600+ amps, which is plenty to kill you, but the fact is, its hard to push that many amps through your body. Your body's resistance (initially) will be around 1500 ohms.
The car's starter probably has a resistance of 0.1 ohms ish. 15v divided by 0.1 is about 150 amps, about right.
Now 15v divided by your body's resistance of say 1500 ohms is 0.01A, not much, and that low voltage probably won't even penetrate the skin, so no current is going to flow anyway.

If you want 500 amps to flow through your body, you'll need to be touching something with the potential of over half a million volts.
Oh, and 60Hz AC is MUCH more dangerous than DC.

To get killed you'll need about 0.05-0.10 amps 60Hz going across the heart, so thats why a good contact with 120V for a length of time can be lethal.

So actually richard, it IS the volts that hurts (as long as the source is powerful enough to maintain the voltage), since the current is inversely proportional to your body's fixed resistance.

Thanks for that. I will be copying this post. I was instructed in AIT that DC is more dangerous because it causes the body to clamp down on the source. AC, with it going to zero and negative will throw a person from the wire. Why is this not true?

All I know is that Edison ran DC, however, AC is easier to transmit longer distances without needing stations to increase the strength. In order to help his causes and beat the competition, he promoted the use of electric for execution and made the first electric chair... utilizing AC.

AC and DC can cause your muscles to tense up and clamp down on something. AC throwing people off wires is sort of a myth. It can happen but thats just because the persons body was oriented in such a way that when their muscles contracted they were lucky enough to fly off. AC 60Hz -- about the most dangerous frequency to the body (ironic thats what we're supplied with, eh?) -- the heart will much more easily go into fibrillation and kill you. DC can still stop your heart but it 'freezes' it more than pulsing the crap out of it 60 times a second, and the heart can resume much easier after the shock.

Another thought. There can be special cases. For instance, I built a 18,000V DC power supply last year (to power a laser ), and I'd much rather be zapped on the portion where the 18,000V is still AC and before its converted to DC because theres a decent sized capacitor bank on the DC end, which can provide a ton more current to kill me with than the ~100mA AC output of the step-up transformer. Just a fun example.

very cool. Sure appreciate the electricity theory lessons. Sure solves alot of the confusion spurred by my Army training. I just saved this as a bookmark.

Back to the original thread. Did you ever reset the PCM?

I did a search couple weeks ago comparing DC to AC since I was messing with a meter. It was great info and talked about Edison and all. However, I can't remember what the heck I read now. But at the time, it was enlightening!

Im just sitting back rather amused at this thread... great electronics leasons tho!

I'm watching it too.

i took a course on electronics... and its not the voltage that will kill you its the amps.

With the car battery, you can touch BOTH terminals at the same time and nothing will happen, hell many years ago i got a good zap from a ratchet hitting the fender and shorting, but just dont short the battery, and you should be fine, if your too scared to work on a loose battery connection, you just need to goto the shop...its as simple as that!

ok drummerboy, ur graphics keep cracking me up on this topic!!! Love em!

haha, yeah I found a ton of good ones, they were on a hidden page on my local grand prix club's website! there is way more where that came from! i've been feeling pretty sarcastic the last few days too, and that's not a good combination!

LOL@ drummers icons. Can you toss us a link to those?

well, it's a private photobucket page for a guy in my club, so it may not work. Let me see if i can make it happen.

Edit: got it, I think this should work

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v249/KCPM/Smilies/smiliebox/?start=all

You big cheater!!!!

you didn't read

there i used one!

hahah, we should just see if Brian will add them to our site so I'm not using that guy's bandwidth.

that is if he still exists, I emailed him about the classifieds thing over two weeks ago and never recieved a response of any kind.

thems is hilarious. thanks for the link, dude.

Here is one ICON that should NEVER be used...

i can only hope you're being sarcastic.

Here is one for the topic starter.Chico.