I need help!!!!!!! loud ticking or tapping noise

I need you guys help on this one. My car has a loud ticking or tapping noise thatdoes it on some mornings and then goes away when the car heats up. It may do it later on that day. My cousin stated that it was my lifters. What you guys think?
I also need an tune up. So i was thinking on get a used engine and sending my head off and transfer to the new engine or fix what needs to be fix

Also when i drive 40 to 60 the car is jumping when i step on the gas and when i let off it goes away. I ve heard it my be my hub or bearings. Is this true? any advice would help. thanks

Your cousin is probably right in guessing that it is lifter tick. I have heard of some people using that mystery oil stuff and it clears it up.

Jumping? Like, studdering? If it does away when you let off the gas, it probably isn't suspension/wheel related. It is probably misfiring and needs plugs and wires.

What is the history of this car? Mileage? Maintenance?

The tapping is the lifters.

My GTP is having a bouncing issue at certain speeds as well and I think it's the axles. Everything else up front is tight and new; hubs, control arms w/ new bushings and ball joints, tie rods, struts and mounts etc.

You would need to jack up the car and hold the tire at 9 & 3, hold the back of the wheel and push the front. See if it has play. That is to check tie rod play.

Hold the tire at 12 & 6 and pull the top then the bottom and so on, depending on amount of play its' a ball joint or hub.

If these are all tight then it's likely an axle.

Brought it 06 and it had 68,000 miles on it. now it has 165,000 Had it for 5yrs with no major issue. Regular maintenance tune ups, oil change,

I also have another issue with my pwr steering. I change the pump and when i am turning to park the car it still feels stiff. I've heard that the rack and pinion on these cars are not well built. Any suggestions ?

First thing to do is the seafoam treatment, followed with a switch to synthetic motor oil. Hopefully this will stop the ticking as it will clean the lifters. As for the jumping at speed, does it feel like the engine is revving or losing power or is it more like the power not getting to the wheels, might be the tranny filter and fluid need changed or could be a bad sensor somewhere, like the throttle position sensor, usually though a bad sensor will give you a Check Engine light.

At highway speeds it's bouncing on front passenger side. Did a tranny flush mid 2011.

Thanks will try

Rotate your tires front to back and see if the bouncing follows.

Buy some motor flush and 6 qts of cheap oil,a cheap filter, 5 qts of good oil and good filter.

Add motor flush and let idle according to directions.

Drain oil & remove filter, once oil stops dripping out, pour a qt of oil into engine with oil plug removed. You will be amazed how much more nasty oil comes out.

Fill filter with cheap oil and install it. Replace plug and pour in 4 qts of cheap oil.

Drive this for a day or two and repeat steps except use the good oil & filter.

FYI Use 5W-30, Purolator, Bosch or Fram tough guard filters. Look up filter for a 2000 S-10 4.3liter 4x4. It is 1" longer for more filtering capacity.

thanks chevyman. will try that
I have another question. Do you think EGR valve would cause my engine to jump then the car is in park?
If so could i get one cheaper than $200.
Could the EGR valve cause my service engine soon light to flash while driving?

Your service light is flashing? That is BAD! Stop driving it and get it fixed. You are doing damage. Drive that car to autozone like a grandma and get it scanned and let us know what code or codes they find. Why all of a sudden are you asking about an EGR? You can take them off and clean the crud out, but that may not be your issue. Again, flashing light is BAD and needs to be fixed NOW!

You can get a OEM EGR valve with gasket from amazon for $102 with free shipping.
EGR valve at Amazon

Flashing SES is probably just a misfire. Replace the plugs and wires.

Where in the world did the EGR problem come from?

Ok will do. The







Ok. I forgot to post it when posting the other problems. It started back in December. 3 months before i purchased a EGR from the junk yard. Could not afford new one. Then that when the light started flashing. 2 weeks later I was able to get another from another junk yard. I waiting on imcome tax to fix everything

Went to autozone and got the code. P0306 cylinder 6 misfire
I knew I needed tune up anyway.
Price set of 6 spark plug wires @ 60.49 includes tax.
the wires are from XACT for 19.99
My spark plugs are from NGK- Iridium IX Series; TR55IX
w/ .060 Gap for 36.54.
What do you guys think? What do you guys use?

You have a GT, so you did good by getting the iridium plugs. If you were blown or boosted, you'd want to go with a cold plug, but you're not so you don't. I would have bought Delco/Delphi wires, but it's your money and thus your decision.

Be aware that the flashing code MIGHT be a bad coil pack. That happened on my Camaro and had me chasing faults all OVER that freakin car.

If it was a coil pack id imagine hed have the other cylinder mis firing as well. Or have p0300 code instead.

I can't remember what the code was that I was throwing, but the bad coil pack only affected one cylinder. My guess is that the inductor broke closer to one terminal.

Could be a coil pack. If you replace the plugs and wires, the coil pack would be my next move if the SES light is still on.

The cylinders on any 1 coil pack fire at the same time, so swap the plug wire ends on the #6 coil pack and see if it moves to that cylinder. I don't remember off hand what cylinder shares the #6 coil pack but it's written on top of it.

I think...

6-3
2-5
1-4

ACDelco & Bosch iridium are much cheaper and have rebates right now so the AcDelco will be $4.50 each and the Bosch $4 each. Iridium will last 100K in a well maintained car. No need for $10 plugs. I have never seen proof they are better. People will say they are better, but I say prove it. There are three 3800 pontiac motors in my family that have gotten 30 MPG with 100K mile ACDelco iridium plugs. Take the money and get ACDelco wires from rockauto.com. or at least get the Bosch. I will tell you right now, run far far away from any ignition or brake part that says duralast. In my experience wrenching on used cars I buy or cars with friends. Duralast parts fair regularly and your car will eventually stop with their brake parts.