Tips on SSC Spring swap.

After much debate (with myself in front of a mirror) Ive ordered a set of SSC lowering springs with anti pogo. I already have the KYB struts and used to have eibachs, but hated the ride. im told these are far tamer but still reduce the wheel gap. im hoping for some advice before I start the swap. Any tips are appreciated.

Other than having a tool to compress the springs and an air hammer to knock out the lower bolts..... Consider replacing the top mounts. Bobby will tell you the same...

Where did you find the SSC springs?

http://www.getoverkilled.ca/SSCWBody.html

hey fellow oqcgp'er, I am just putting on my SSC's today as well. since you have already recently done the springs and struts the nuts shouldn't be too hard to get off.

like mentioned you will need a spring compressor, you can rent the tool at Canadian Tire for that.

The Eibachs are infamous for getting the sag (John had bachs and changed to SSC after his sagged) and the SSCs are guaranteed not to sag for their lifetime.

What ones did you get? Traditional?

hey randall .. wat does that price change over to usd?? i will be doing struts and springs soon as well and its nice to see stuff like this

our dollars are about equal. I paid 200 CAD for springs and retainers. so for your it'd be like 195 US.

although, Will is selling whole set ups of KYB GR2 struts and SSC springs as a package for 900 CAD. these come with new mounts, bellows, everything.

SSCs are the same springs that ZZP was selling at one time...they are the ones I had installed on my car and later took them off. Of course I must admit in retrospect that now that I've swapped in these leather Regal seats I think my factory cloth buckets were as much at fault for my crummy ride than the SSC springs were.
Check with Rook, I sold my springs to him...I dont know if he has installed them yet or not.

Once you get your stock springs off (which you will need the compressor for) the SSCs wont need much compressing to get them on. Ratcheting wrenches and an impact wrench made this a pretty straight forward job.

awesome advice, I ordered the traditional, im alittle worried that I may have to roll the fenders to accomadate the bullet rims and tires but otherwise Ill be glad to see a reduction in the wheel gap.

I'd be interested in this too, since I like the torque setup I have. I just have some smaller tires, therefore creating a bigger gap. Pics would be nice before and after.

yup will post em up when its done...wont be for a while im still in the north until months end..

make sure you have a BFH to get the lower bolts out.

I had to have a grinder on hand to fix my bolts after i rounded them with the hammer

x2 on the big hammer. I put the nuts back on the end of the bolt to keep from rounding the ends. You'll also need a punch to get the bolts the rest of the way through.

All my mounts were gone so I had to replace those (the rears pretty much destroyed them selves when decompressing them, they ripped the collars because they were rusted right to the strut), just something to keep in mind.

And don't try to take any short cuts by undoing the nut on the strut while still in the car. I tried this so I wouldn't need to compress my stock front, didn't work out. The control arm doesn't go down far enough lol, and I ripped my cv boot a bit.


oh, and the very back nut closest to the rear quarter on the rear struts are a BIG PITA to get off, even with a ratcheting wrench.

other than that, it's not to hard, just time consuming.

I love the traditionals, I can only fit less than 3 (fairly tiny) fingers between the wheel well and the tire and they haven't settled yet so it will drop a bit more.

Your bullits should fit fine without having to roll the fenders.

oh, and depending on when you last had your sway bar off you might need an allen key. the nut on mine just spun so I had to do it by hand which requires an allen key and 18 mm wrench.

the nuts holding the strut up top are 15 mm, the nuts down below are 13/16 and the bolt is 11/16.