Cammed/Intercooled Setup **IT RUNS**

As most of you know, i pulled the motor in my car not too long ago to give her a nice refresh. Both headgaskets needed done and the oil pan gasket was leaking.

So i took this opportunity to get myself:
VS cam (will be here tomorrow or the next day)

A FMHE for the intercooler
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=370072406746

And an Rule pump for the intercooler
http://www.cgedwards.com/Rule/Rule-index.html

I also threw GR2's and eibachs on her.

its a sad sight right now

Did you get Andy's cam or what did you go with?
Let me know how that intercooler setup goes. I know you did some research on prices, I plan to do a setup sometime near future, I hope.
Which Rule one are you going with?

i got sick of waiting for andys cam, so i bought it off of a guy on clubgp for 200 bucks.

so far i have spent 80 bucks or so on the intercooler. if i can find cheap plates then i can a heater core in there and be done. Im hoping to get the whole setup for under 300.

LMK what kind of questions you have, steve. Youve got my number if you want. i have been searching for a long time to find these prices on stuff.

You need new right fender inner. Your is broken half. My body shop broken it half during paint F1 hood, front bumper and blend fender. I told them get me a new one for free which I got it. It is very nice clean fender inner

and arnt you missing tail lights lol, let me know when you want those back, what are you driving in the meantime

Where you been Andrew, Corey went to the other side and is driving a Miata.

the lights have been done for a while, just waiting for him to tell me to ship them back but yeah they have been done lol ..... need to put a jackson racing supercharger on that miata lol

corey, you're making a whole intercooler for around 300? how? I want to intercool just to lower my temps, not so I can push more boost, but I don't wanna drop 1400 or even 700 on one. can you send me a PM with the details? Thanks man.

Can't wait to hear that cam.

edit: woops! thanks o1'gt

lol his name is corey...

what'chu talkin 'bout Willis? :p

x2 on the intercooler, i found pumps that i can use for the intercooler cheep i just need the rest

lol unless u have a specific nickname for him that the rest of us dont know about....hahaha :p

Andrew: i could use those tails whenever you wanna send em back! And the miata is staying stock, slow, and somewhat reliable. Even though ive already had to do the timing belt, master and slave cylinders, and the shifter bushing. its easy to work on.

R.S.- since i already have the pump and FMHE for 75 bucks or so that gives me 215 for the stack. i found some heater cores that are decently cheap, but need to find a CAD drawing for the plates. Buy some aluminum and have my buddy make plates to put around the heater core. Throw in the hoses and resivoir tank (found one at wal-mart for 10 bucks) and then i should have one of the cheapest intercoolers ever assembled, lol.

you need to be supercharged to intercool first LOL

well I guess its no secret now.

Corey: Damn man, that is pretty cheap. The hard part would be getting those plates made up. Well if you ever do get them, let me know, maybe he could make up 2 sets for some cash?

lol that is funny.

how did you intercool ur twin-charge again?...

LOL ouch

hah im just playin with ya man

I know its all good, maybe ill just buy that twincharged gtp at zzp for 9 g's lol, i wish.

thats where i have hit the wall. I am trying to find anything that would work. Im looking into the Ford Probe/626 core that they used to run. If i find a guy i will let you know

any idea what they use for the SS intercooler lol

ZZP sells just the core.

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=363&catid=139

i looked into that, but they can be had for cheaper. You have to drop 170 for a stg. 2/3 core and then you have to pay to make plates. I think the probe one will be fine for a low 12 sec. setup

http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?Ntt=Heater%20Core&N=1616%2010350%204294966984

looks like this might be promising.

I'm really afraid that your custom IC core is going to end up costing more than one from ZZP after all the work is done.

I mean, my SS core alone must have been like 10 pounds of aluminum, and that's $$$ right there.

You'll need like 2 1'x1'x3/4" plates of aluminum.

[/QB][/QUOTE]

I cant wait to see that thing running again.

yeah, thats the only prpblem that im having. the core itself seems to be very tough to do. Im looking into some alternative metals that could work. There are guys who run wood carb spacers on small blocks, lol. What im waiting for is for someone to have plates for sale. Then i can go with a probe/escort core and save myself a lot of money.

Just stopped by advance today and saw this. Should work well for the reservoir, and it was only 10 bucks.


Here is the VS cam and rule bilge pump


And the VW FMHE/radiator

Doing the cam install today.

Got the whole timing cover off without too much work. I went to remove the timing chain tensioner and saw that it had worn considerably and broken in 2 separate places. I will get pics later, its ugly. I guess the 105# springs did a number on it.

A few notes:
The cam bolt is 1 1/8". What a PITA, had to take the miata to autozone to get this special socket.

The thrust plate bolts are TIGHT, and torx bits. another PITA.One of the thrust plate bolts stripped, and had to dremel out it out.

I just finished my intercooler install last week. I'm also using the rule pump ;-)
I didn't use a reservoir... put a T and a plug at the highest point in the system, and a vent valve on top of the FMHE to bleed it. Not sure exactly how well its working yet.

How'd the cam install end up?

i didnt finish the install. Thats the problem with only being able to be with the car in short incriments. Im at school a few hours away, so when its possible to get home for the weekend, i do. I forgot to order the EOS assembly lube. And im going to need to order new thrust plate bolts . Also a front cover gasket, oil pan gasket, head gaskets, bolts, etc.

But it took some big steps in the right direction.

I saw the post about your intercooler, what rule pump are you using? Im going to use the reservoir to put ice in at the track.

I think its the rule 401.
Seems to be keeping things pretty cold. It sounds a bit funny, though.
Too fast flow means water doesn't spend long enough time in the heat exchanger. Too slow and it becomes less effective. So its hard to decide on one. Frozenboost.com sells rule 401's with their 600hp kits, so I'm hoping it ends up doing the job well enough.

One thing thats kinda scary is that these rule pumps might fail under the stress/heat. They're not designed to be under the restriction that our systems would put on them. If it fails, we wouldn't know, and the resulting KR could mean disaster...

I'm working on a circuit that will detect the pump's electrical current to ensure it is working. If the pump dies or shorts, the circuit will detect the abnormality and do two things:
1) warning lamp
2) automatically retard timing. It ties into the other circuit I'm making to adjust timing on the fly (similar to ZZP's product if they still carry it) by spoofing the IAT sensor with resistances to select a pre-programmed timing shift in the PCM (for example, -1,0,+1,+2,+3 could be 5 different settings)

I like the idea of a warning lamp. I would love to see how you did it, because I have been worried about this too.

Are you running it on a fused circuit?

Edit: Im also running the Rule 401FC

I'll let you know how it works out. If its easy enough I could fab up a few of the circuits. Should be fairly cheap.

Right now its on a fused circuit since I'm running a wire into my cab and using the cigarette lighter :-p

Well,

I placed a 190 dollar order to ZZP and a 60 dollar order to Rock Auto today for gaskets/bolts.

The car will hopefully be running around Christmas time!

I love spending money on an old, broken Pontiac.

I miss having money to spend on an old, broken Pontiac...

*sigh*

I was finally able to make it back home for a weekend to get some work done.

The cam is in with a new timing chain and damper, along with the entire front cover, balancer, WP, etc.

I did have a bit disturbing of a find. My original damper looks to have lost chunks of it and had considerable wear. I guess it was because of my 105# springs for the last 10k miles?


And the engine is closer to going back in the car.

Oh joy this is what I have to look forward to haha good luck bro can't wait to see her finished up. Keeping up with your progress on the end of my seat.

Are we to be expecting more pics this coming weekend Corey?

Any news on the i/c core? Just doesn't look happy with out a thick core and blower.

I got my i/c last weekend, it is sexy. I can't wait, idk how you can stand the wait.

Maybe a couple other pics. There isnt much to show. I have a lot of work still to do.

The guy said the I/C core will be ready in a couple of weeks. Thats good to hear that you got your core, its tough to wait for everything to come together, but i want to do it right.

Can't rush perfection Corey! Shes going to be a beast and your doing alot of DIY with custom making of kits etc throwing on more time while saving money which is smart. Good Luck!

Who's can find me the cheapest deal on GM head gaskets? Not the fel-pro crap.

And head bolts? Napa has the gaskets for $27 a piece and i found the bolts for $25.

Can anyone get me cheaper than that?

I figured Zuul being all electronic guru, he would think of a warning lamp. I talked to Digitally about this when I do my setup, and I figured I could wire in a lamp light to let me know if the pump looses power. Shouldn't be to difficult.
I also won't have the car tuned to where it needs the IC to run, hopefully tuned to where it only uses it just to better itself, not rely on it.

Its not just losing power you have to worry about, unless a mechanical failure translates into an electrical anomaly somehow.

My thought was a sensor that could tell if it was still pumping. I might throw a water temp gauge on it after the pump, and then if it heats up really high, I'm betting that it failed.

Thoughts?

i hum are you talking about the pump itself or just power to the pump because what you can do is put a light in line with the wiring so if there is no current flowing threw then the light will shut off, but yes that does sound like a good idea, but you should just save yourself the troubble and put on a mechanical pump lol

This has been discussed on clubgp, you might try searching there. If you can get a flow sensor, that might work. The temperature idea was thrown out there and shot down, I believe the criticism was that by the time you got a temperature differential, you might already be in trouble.

Went to the junkyard to get some wiring harnesses for the knock sensors. Got them both for 2 bucks.

Ordered head bolts and a motor mount today. Its getting close now!

Leaving now to go to the machine shop to pick up the heads, waiting on the head gaskets to get here later today. I will have a few pics up later today. The engine will *hopefully* find its way into the engine bay today.

Finished up all of the wiring issues I have been having, threw on the tail lights the Andrew (4drgt) tinted for me, put the system back in the trunk, put the interior back together, and got the car off of the jack stands for the first time in a while.

Hopefully found an entire L36 block a few hours north of here that I can get pick up and grab a few odds and ends that I need.. It should be fun fitting in the Miata, lol. Maybe I'll just find a friend with a truck

id help you if i didnt live so darn far away

how are the tails? they work for you? also anyword on the custom intercoolers??

Just waiting on the guy to post up results and pics of his install of the intercoolers. He kept telling us be shortly, but the time keep ticking along.

Yep. its starting to get annoying.


I picked up the L36 tonight, just got back, actually. Looks like it will be good for some donor parts.

Whoever said flow sensor is right. That would be the most reliable method, but I looked into it and it'd be DANG expensive to implement. The only alternative way would be a temperature sensor near the inlet of the core, and have an 'overtemp' warning.
Anyway, I haven't made any progress on this. Way too much going on at work and I started my masters degree this fall. Christmas break I will, though.

Oh, about the rule pump.
As I mentioned before I did no use a reservoir, but instead used a brass T going into the core, with a cap on the highest point... this way I can fill from there and try to bleed the air out. Now... what bothers me is that when the pump is running and the water full, I can take the cap off and see the water barely making its way up into the core. Theres very little flow! So I'm leaning towards a reservoir...

Another reason for a reservoir is the added amount of fluid you can put in the system.

IT'S BACK IN!

I got the motor back in the car today, now its just the matter of wiring, some other accessories, and the exhaust. It will be done in the next few weekends I can get home.

geez man! its about time! haha 3 months for a cam and intercooler build?! haha jk man.

There isnt even a freakin intercooler to put in yet. This sucks being so far away from the car all the time.

temp sensors aren't TOO expensive. http://www.aeroforcetech.com/Temp_sensor.html

However, I still think that by the time this sensor indicates a problem, you're already in trouble.

It seems like a flow sensor would be cheap and easy (may not be in reality, but seems like it should be). We don't care about the calibration (to determine the ACTUAL amount of liquid flowing), we just need something like a pinwheel. If the axle is rotating, we're fine. If it slows below a certain threshold, something is blocking flow, so turn on a warning light.

Anyone know of a connector that has something in it that could be used like a pinwheel?

Just realized I never answered this. The tails came out awesome man! Thanks so much! I throw up some pics when i get the car cleaned up.

A few more crappy cell phone pics of the install.





And of course...

im just glad that you like them

Priceless Corey, just Priceless!
You giving that engine some paint or degreasing or what?

Where's the update on this, been over two months.

x2

Well, the engine is in the car. I guess that's an update, but I'm going to school now, and have to keep my priorities straight. Paying rent and getting my degree is more important than the car at this point. Spring break is in a few weeks, I might get a little bit of work done on it then.

Just out of curiosity, what did you do with the L36 block?

i may still be intrested in one of those intercoolers

It's in the car.

Got some new pics since I got to come home for the weekend to get some work done on it.




Had a bit of a fuel line problem, but got it figured out.


As it sits now.



Should have some more pics up later.

Look good

Ouch, where did that connect to?

That's where it connected to the rail. I was careless when dropping the motor back in and dropped the flexplate onto it.

Your fmhe sits 180* of mine.
What are you using as connections to the in/out of the fmhe?
I have mine where in/outs on the driver side, because the one hole is angled, so I had that angle down on driver side so the flow comes out with the help of gravity.

I'm just going to use PVC and couplers to the tubing for the FMHE.

Basically what I did, if you want to check it out.

for the fuel line... oreilly has replacements... then you just get a coupler...

cut your existing line.... put the coupler in, put the new line on and attach

real simple but i'm sure you already fixed the problem

Corey, your freakin pm box full again.

PM: Those fittings in your reservoir just threaded in?
Any sealant around them?
I tried a few things, and I didn't feel confident.
I put a hose on, and the fitting moved around.
I bought some Marine 5200 sealant, seems like its bonding and going create a good seal.
I went with Ace 5200, 7 days cure.
But I've used some 5200 before that is a quick cure, in under 1 hour it can be touched.
It's up to you, but I suggest that for a protective sealant.

GP GT GUY- Already fixed the fuel line problem

Steve- I'm changing to a different style reservoir that holds more fluid.

Always short in your responses, haha.
Where you going to put it, not whole lot space I figured out.

Lot's of room in the trunk It's just a pain to run the lines under the car.

That was one of the thoughts, but I love having my 12's back there. I'm probably going to run a cobra reservoir, not sure about the location yet.

Its looking good bro!

If I may ask why is there a hole in your hood? Right next to the SD vent lol

Thanks man. There is a nice track of air passage that can go through there, but it is closed off. I fixed that with some redneck engineering.

Ah I see. lol redneck engineering hahaha. Btw your car looks damn low in that one pic.

It's on Eibachs now. They still have to settle a bit, I'm really happy with the ride height, it gives it a really nice stance.

The 2 spots right behind the taillights are a great spot to put in a reservoir. Or in the spare wheel well.

I have a cobra reservoir for mine as well actually, but I have not figured out where it's going to fit.

Do you want the dimensions of my reservoir so you can look for some good spots to put it? Or do you already have one?

You have a 97 as well right? The windshield washer bottle sucks being over the battery, I am going to pick up a 99+ and move it into the fenderwell. I think if I do that I can then put the cobra reservoir there. Not sure, might have to move the battery. Something you might want to think about.

I'm going to be picking up the Cobra reservoir from a friend of mine who sold his GP for a Cobra and is going to something bigger. I have a '98, so the washer bottle was in the fenderwell, but I deleted the washer bottle a while back anyways. I have burnt up enough motors to say screw it and just deleted it.

I hadn't thought about running a long, skinny reservoir where the grocery net sits just behind the tail lights. I bet you could fit a ton of fluid in there. I need to learn to weld.

Isn't the cobra res expensive?
I say a price tag on aluminum one or someting in black for $250.
And others on ebay for over $100.

Not from Fred.

Decided on some new ideas for my coolant and intercooler reservoirs last night.

Ordered this one from Summit Racing for the coolant reservoir. To get rid of the ugly yellowed 99+ reservoir by the passenger strut tower.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail...15&autoview=sku

And I'm going to swap my 97-98 style coolant reservoir sitting on a shelf in the garage for the intercooler. It has a large capacity and is right near the FMHE, so it should work great and it's free.

Awe it's cute!

But it should be good enough for what I need it to do. And you know how cramped the engine bay is. I think I might go with a FWI since the 98 style coolant bottle is probably going to hit my HAI now.

Decisions, decisions. I really need school to end so I can get back to the car soon. I need to run the IC tubing, mount the pump, and figure out these stupid reservoirs. I still have to figure out the I/C core situation, too.

If anyone is looking for a 99+ coolant bottle, I might have one for sale here in the near future.

Yah, that stuff took me many hours Corey.
Changing one thing I had to change another.
My intake setup changed for the 7th time.

Bought a couple of phenolic sheets today!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:11&Item=250411492020
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:11&Item=250411509118

Time to make some plates!

That's cheap, may have to make a new one now!

Been hard at work with it.

Inlet ported to 75mm for the LS1 TB.


Ported outlet with silencer ports sealed and H-bar removed.


LIM opened up with a dremel and grinder.


The beginnings of my external PCV.



New coolant reservoir for the radiator.


But that means the battery can't be there... So it's hiding back here.


My IC plates and probe core, which are at the machine shop now.

Surpries you went through that mount like that with the line off the valve cover.

Yeah. I didn't want to, but it should be fine.

Uh oh....


Pics of the Core.





And the pump is mounted.



edit.. yes, that is duct tape for the time being.

And no... the hood won't close.

Ya my hood closed at that thickness cuz wood compressed some. Who cut the phenolic for you, looks clean.

i agree with what steve said about how it looks very clean cut, and how much did they charge, i would like to get some cut for a fullsize IC on the genV

I know what that means! CF hood would be sweet.

cf ?? just get the cutting tools out and cut the hood to fit that blower lol

I will be cutting the underside of the hood, and installing cradle spacers to try and get it to fit.

I paid a machinist to cut the phenolic. He did it for like $250, but said it was way more work than that.

$250? Omg

agreed, give me a week and some grinding burrs do you have any dementions of everything?? maybe give me something to go off of

dimensions? Sizes and measurements?

or

demented? evil and malicious personality?

just wondering.

sorry for the thread jack.

There is a reason why it looks a bit better than the ones you made.

Two different materials.
He probably has a nice machine and had time.

Got the blower, intercooler, and LIM on today. Along with the 98 style coolant reservoir.

Your blower looks mightly nice compared to your sig.

Very cool, so this is what phenolic looks like. Never had seen the stuff before, seems very interesting. Performance gains im assuming will be great?

well it only took me an hour to get up to date on this project but it looks AWESOME. good luck on the rest.

Did you receive the CR? What are you gonna do with the one you have pictured?

Your not painting that Phenolic?

The specific heat of phenolic is much much higher than that of aluminum. So I'm hoping for really good results.

Thanks man! It's almost there. Fuel rails and a tuner are the last big things.
The red one pictured earlier in the thread? That is the reservoir for my coolant. The one you sent me (thank you, BTW. I updated the dealers and stealers thread ) is the reservoir for my intercooler.

Eh, I thought about it, but it has kind of a "raw" look to it that I kinda like. It's probably going to come off sometime soon anyways (my luck) so I might paint it at a later date.

maybe by the time I getback to Florida you'll have this beast running?

I can't wait to hear about the smile on your face when u crank that think over! It feels good after big install like so, I've done it like four times recently!

Sure hope so. It's getting pretty close now.

Yeah, I have to tune it before it will start, but we'll see how the first start-up goes.

I was thinking, if you decide to paint the core, paint a stencil on the core that says "Intercooled" or something similar, that'll be sweet!

Thats a really cool thought. I might try something like that.

It runs! Cranked up on the first try after about 15 months of sitting. Going to work on some bugs now.

I was giggling like a little girl when it fired up!

Pics and vids later.

SWEET! cant wait for the videos and pics corey!!

First startup vid. (Crappy quality, cell phone)
http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c324/o...=0727091726.flv
The leak in the video is just spilled water from the IC reservoir. No worries

And some pics. Not anywhere near done yet, but just a glimpse.

Ordonez that's a great looking engine bay!

that engine bay =the sexh

have u driven it yet? how is it?

love those braided stainless fuel lines

Thanks guys. There are a few more things going to be done to the engine bay in the coming days. It should really set it off nicely.
Haven't driven it. The idle sucks on it due to the fact that I have a cam and 85mm MAF in there without a tune for them. Hopefully soon, though.
Thanks man! They were a PITA to get to seal, but now that they are, I really like the look of them.

wow, that bay is REALLY empty! haha

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4762

Any ideas? This thing runs like crap. Something is up with the MAF/MAP

Not a very useful scan, but yeah, I agree. MAF for sure and MAP looks low. Have to do some checking on those wires/connections.

Next time give us some idle then some light throttle. Add TPS%, IPW, and O2 on there, maybe IAC position too.

Yeah man, I was just throwing things out there, as I wasn't sure as to what the problem was. I think that something is messed up with the MAF wiring. I'm gonna check that out today. If the MAF was bad, would it read 0 like this, or would it be doing something else? Its an 85mm MAF, BTW.

it could read 0 due to a failure in the sensor, but it's more likely that you've got the signal wire shorted to ground, or power isn't being applied to the sensor.

New Scan.

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4765

HOw does that belt clear the coil packs? Mine didn't!!

you've got some weird stuff going on... need to track down that MAF problem. The MAP could be accurate if you've got a bad leak. Your IAC also might be indicating a leak, or it might just be because of the lopey cam...

The cam isn't THAT lopey. It's just a baby VS, so I wouldn't think so. It's obvious that something is wrong with the MAF. I'm going to try and get another one for cheap and swap it out. I swapped the MAP for this scan, and got the same reading, so I'm pretty sure that the MAP is good. Wouldn't I throw a code (lean) showing the vacuum leak specifically? or is the MAP just showing that?

Grinder to the side of the ICM and coil pack bracket worked fine.

Beast! Coming along great. Now comes the fun part of going through all the little annoying omfg I can't believe it took me 3 days to find that problem stage lol

Good luck bro!

Iac values lower with ic and with cams.

Corey's numbers are abnormally high....

Gonna go to the junkyard and try to find another 85mm MAF out of something.

Newest Scan. MAF fuse was blown. The car still won't idle at all, and keeps stalling. MAP is still throwing a DTC.

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4767

Help!

IAC counts are high. Stock is 40-50 range. Should be under that at idle.

Did you degree your cam install or did you just install straight up? Also did you remove the balance shaft?

I see that. Does that mean there is a vacuum leak? And what is going on with the MAP sensor?

Straight up, and I kept the balance shaft.

At least your MAF looks good now. MAP should also trend upward with TP%. It is stuck at 8, you need to find out why that wire isn't wiggling. Have you tried a different MAP sensor?

Yeah, I tried a spare I have and it is reading the same thing.

so sounds like either something in the wiring, or the pcm.

Got it. MAP signal wire was all messed up.

Another scan. http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4768

The car has fuel and spark. And now it will not fire. No DTC's.

My numbers always read lower with vac leaks, but I'd still check for some. Check injectors for vac leaks too

uh oh.

CPS? maybe you need a relearn on the new cam?

it's a vac leak, he tried to seal things up better. running any better now, corey?

I know I showed you corey, but remember where I added jb weld to get more surface area for the core to seal to lim. That could be leaks there.
Injectors, and check those lines, I recently found a T cracked wide open.

Haven't started it in a couple of days. Had to move the g/f into her dorm at school, so I'm down in Fort Myers until tomorrow evening. I will work at it a bit tomorrow and give a status report.
Where did you add JB weld?

Even the case learn wouldn't cause it not to start. Mine is still throwing a case learn code we just stopped it from activating the service engine light.

That has to be a pretty big vac leak though. I mean with the vs cam its still gunna put what 18vac? maybe a little less if that. Stock pulls 20vac at idle. Even a decent leak you would still have enough. Hmm idk dude sound weird.

Mainly the front where there is small surface area for core to seal to lim. Front of lim I think. Create more sureface area.

That's a good idea. There is only like 1/2" across the front of the LIM.

Yes sir!

Pulled it off and resealed. Still a huge vacuum leak.

My torch is looking like the best solution to this thing.

Torch what? The whole car....
Positive vacuum leak?
Is the core cracked that you had made?
What about lim, it might be leaking to the block.

Yep. The whole frickin thing. lol

My vacuum gauge is going nuts reading between 0 and 10 in.hg. I gotta pull the core out again later.

U got many more pulls to equal how many times I had mine on and off. My blowers been off at least a dozen times

It's coming off again today.

So whats the update on this?

I'm back at school. So the car is sitting again until I get home for a weekend.

Kind of an update.

Got home for Thanksgiving and played with the car for a bit. The fuel pump is dead, so I ordered a replacement from WBS. I wanted to get one local, but Autozone/Advance wanted to sell the complete canister with the pump and sending unit for $250+ so I got the one from WBS for $80. I saved a lot of money, but won't be able to mess with the car until December sometime.

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=...de=1&s=#5103049

And if anyone can help me with this, I would appreciate it.

Is that the LS1 TB or the L67 TB?

LS1. I thought you were big on N/A builds Rich :p jk

I think its either PCV or Brake Booster related.

Appears to be after the throttle blade. Running my custom pcv corey, the PCV grabbed air before my throttle blade.
Now mine is plugged and I have a hose running from in front of the throttle blade to the front valve cover.

From this pic I'm stumped as to whether that line is before or after the throttle blade:

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=5085508

I was looking at one online, looks like gets air in front of throttle blade.

How do you have your pcv system setup. You may just plug that line and hole in there.

You have to mod that throttle body Corey:
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=5000583

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=2395046

It's PCV. Up in that part of the TB is a bunch of milled out pockets. As to where it goes i'm not sure, I would guess just attach the vacuum line that attaches to roughly that same spot on the stock TB for PCV.

I know it has to be modded, Steve. I bought it already modded from Ron Vogel about a year ago.

I have an external PCV also, but it is running from the bottom of the TB adapter to the catch can.

I'm not sure if I should have this hole plugged.

If you already have a PCV, I would. What's the purpose of having 2 PCVs?

I'd assist further Corey, but I've been out of GP reading for a few months and that whole PCV function crap I forgot how I set mine up.
But I think you can quiksteel that pocket shut.

Yeah, I just capped it off. It has been capped for a while, but I cannot get the car started, and my vacuum reading is way off, so I wanted to check and see if that was my problem.

Once I get the new fuel filter in, I think I can get a better idea as to what is wrong.

Got a new fuel pump and fuel filter in it. Finally put a fuel pressure gauge in there, and I'm getting about 50psi when the key is in the acc. position, so I'm okay there.

Tested spark, and I have no spark on 3 or 6. Same coil. I think I may have found my problem.

Going to the junkyard tomorrow to see if I can get this stupid thing to start.

If this doesn't fix it, I'll check compression tomorrow.

Good to hear. It's been down a LONG time.

And the POS runs, finally. Time to start scanning.

it is indeed a glorious day! about time you get it running! I sure hope there arent any hidden gremlins. You've toiled over this chariot long and hard enough.

DUDE F*** YA! Nice going bro!!

Video or I don't believe it.

Congrats though, can't wait to hear what that thing can do.

Had to order another Keyspan adapter as this one is giving me problems. Of course it won't be here until after I go back to school in order to tune it. Shouldn't be much longer now.

lol, just saw this. I'll try and get a video tomorrow to let it run through an entire heat cycle.

Gotta wire up the wideband tomorrow anyways.

It's red it won't stay running long!!
JK Corey, glad you got it turned over.

Another update:

Started installing the nitrous kit:






And get the Siemens 80lb/hr injectors in there:


Got them from here (as I mentioned in the other thread) http://www.ottperformance.com/store/pc/Siemens-80-LB-Injectors-9p26.htm
Great guys to work with, and helped me out great customer service.

Also got the Racetronix pump from PRJ, only to find out it doesn't fit in GT canisters, so I'm looking for a 1998-2000 GTP canister.

Hella ya !!!

I really want those injectors, just need to find the $.

I am excited to see what the car will do now, When are you going E85?

They need to come up with direct port fuel rails for our cars!!! lol

Just purchased a 99 GTP fuel pump canister off of clubgp. It will be in early this week, so the next time I get home I can get the Racetronix/Walbro 255 pump with the 80lb injectors in there to be finished with the fueling system and I can completely finish the nitrous wiring by cleaning it up and attaching it to the strut brace.

One step closer....

Hella ya dude! If I'm ever in Florida again we gotta run em lol

I just want it to run, period. lol. Tim came down and saw it in all of its glory :p . If you can get down here and I get it running, I hope to be able to run a little bit.

I have no idea on what it will run though, any idea?

9.4:1 Compression
3.25 Pulley
VS Cam
Pacesetters
LS1 TB
Ported SC/LIM
3" IC
75 Wet Shot
80lb Injectors
Racetronix 255
FP Rewire

I'm hoping 11's?

How thick are you head gaskets dude lmao.

What did you have don't with the 13.9 run?

And ya if you get it tuned nice with good tires you'll see 11's.

Stock head gaskets. Just a GT block.

13.9 was with stock valvetrain, stock pulley, headers, and the top-swap.