Compression test finally

i just did a test on my 99 with almost 200k and my lowest pressure was 150

well can't complete do to injury, brought front head in to test and lightly deck and repair #3 valves. If it is cracked or warped I will pull rear head and replace with newer head's.
was going tpo check timing chain today but it started raining.

Does anyone have this vac tee?

and pics of rear engine assembled can't remember which brackets went where.
Thanks.

IMHO, it might be time for a new car. Also, what's up with that branch in your sig?

Here ya go:

The only thing wrong was a #3 cylinder valve prob, the car and motor is in great condition, little dirty from previous owners but she will be cleaned up and ready to go as soon as my injurys are over. Once I get her back together it will be in excellent condition.
The branch was from a storm, it was actually a dead tree that fell and hit my car, so I took pictures of it for claim purposses.
But I will probobly trade it in for a newer gp, or minivan.


Kool thanks alot Blackarrow98gp, that helps out alot, more then I asked for and now I won't have a prob figuring out where every thing goes.

Shrink you sig pic

I just took it out, I will shrink and put it back up later thanks.

I just brought front head in and had it worked on, machinest called and said head is ready $50.00 so I am asuming that the 80 psi reading was from a leaking head gasket and not a valve prob for that price/Allthough he has done other heads/flywheels/ and sold me many parts before so he may have just given me a deal, when I pick head up I will ask what he did to head..

I pulled rear head off today, might as well go with plan(A), and do valve jobs on both heads. There was carbon build up on the rear cylinder walls not clean like the front, is that normal, how can I clean that carbon off?


And thanks for fixing my sig Blackarrow98gp I love it!!!!!!!!!!

I just used carb cleaner and cleaned the carbon off, most of it anyway, now waiting on funds to finish the job.

Ok #3 cylinder valves on front head was oil collored figured it was from wet compression test, now on rear head #2 valves are slightly darkened and slightly moist, would that be worn valve seals beings the compression was good If I remember about 160 psi.

Machinist said #3 valve took a hit, and had to be ground,so 80psi was due to a burnt/warped valve.Going to bring rear head in this weekend and do the valve work on both heads.

If #2 had 160psi, I wouldn't worry about it at all. #3 at 80psi is the one that should be machined (as it sounds like it was). It sounds like it's ready to go.

Yea thanks, I am gonna bring rear head in also and have new seals and valve work done on both heads, someone mentioned a certain degree angle cut on the valves/seats, but I can't remember what it was, said about 6-10 bucks per valve, ahh to much money allready, forget that.I may just bring rear head in to just match up the shave and put new seals in, I thought I was going to be rolling in cash by now but my AK land sale didn't go through for the corperation.
Anyway it was a great experience in taring this engine apart.
Thanks for all the help

Well finally getting this engine back together, valve job on both heads.



Ready to put on Intake



hope this was just an extra gasket cause I can't find a home for it.



And I can't remember if I had rear head off when I pulled exhaust mani out, having trouble finding a way down in there, got to late try tomorrow.

That "extra gasket" is one of the Lower Intake Manifold gaskets. There is one on each end where the LIM meets the block. I hope you have one on each end or you will need to tear the LIM off again and install it!

Not good man. Hopefully you just got an extra one, but there should be one of these underneath the front and back of the LIM (left and right side of the car). You should also use RTV on them, especially in the corners where the LIM/Block/Heads meet.

Yes that is an extra gasket. I actually got quite a few extra gaskets when I got my top end gasket kit. My best guess is that they are used in other applications as well (possibly even variations due to different years? ie, DBW TB on 04+ compared to 97-03) that use the same gaskets so rather than stocking different numbers they just throw all them in one.

I agree though, hope you used some rtv in the corners where the LIM mates to the heads.

As for the rear manifold, might have to ratchet strap the motor forward towards the rad support to get enough room for it to fit back there. Or try from underneath?

Thanks gentlemen I updated my pics in previous post to show I had the orange end seals in place and lim bolted down,

but I did pop back off cause I only put rtv under orange seal,(side gaskets were sealed to orange end seals) so swabbed some across the top and now she is back together.

I did rear head rockers and rods, did not put any lube on parts, should I pop off and lube, they been sitting since feb of last year(stupid and anctious(sp) to get rolling)

Can I take apart and just use petroleum jelly on rod ends and roller folcrum(sp) or should I go buy some type of lube?
Thanks again

Yes, I would use some assembly lube or fairly thick oil on all the drivetrain parts. Oil the lifters, ends of the pushrods and the rockers.

You've already bolted the LIM so forget about the lifters, they'll pump up once you start the car. Oil the rest though.

Don't use vaseline (petroleum jelly).

If you don't have any assembly lube (Comp sells it most likely available at Autozone) then just use some regular oil and use a liberal amount. The thinner the oil, the quicker it's going to run down off of the parts so it's really all in how fast you are going to have this back running.

Thanks r.s.hutchinson I am on my way to schucks. hope to start this by noon. any last minute to do's before I start her up, koeo a couple times or? Thanks again to everyone.

Cycle the key 2-3 times to build some fuel pressure at the rail. you'll need to continue to burp the coolant afterwards. Lube the injector o-rings with vaseline.

That's all I can think of right now.

Good luck.

You'll want to change your oil after 500 miles or so of driving it.

Ok got her running runs kinda rough low coolant light flashing, ses light flashing,
overheated first start up, I did open bleeder screw when first started and waited for coolant to come out, replaced water pump, doesn't over heat anymore, but low coolant light still flashes, both radiator and reservoir full.
Brought car to az and had it scanned, came up #4 misfire, swapped coils(new one swapped back to known good used one) still flashing ses, maybe injector.

most of time I get in turn ign. and get nothing 10-20 turns and then it will kick in and start, anyway to disable ani-theft system, car did sit since feb last year with heads in shop due to back injury.
Vids sorry so dark daughter got in late.

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk9/m...nt=P1170179.mp4

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk9/m...nt=P1170180.mp4

For the no start issue I'm not so sure that is a Security issue, check your wires on the starter solenoid and also check your battery voltage. Make sure the solenoid wires on the starter and tight and clean. When you cycle the key to the ON position, do you hear the fuel pump prime?

The low coolant light could be that it is low on coolant, what I usually do is just keep topping it up every time it cools down after I've driven it until it's topped up. The sensor could be bad or could also be gummed up. I'm not sure what initially went wrong with the motor you have in the car now but when oil mixes with the coolant it can gum up the sensor and stop it from working correctly. You can try taking it out of the rad and clean it up, it's on the passenger side about 1/3 of the way down, it's a square sensor.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? What headgaskets did you use? Do you have a vacuum gauge you could use to check what it is pulling?

Reset cp every tine:
1. Swapped coils nothing still flashing ses, tried a couple few coils.
2. Grabed last # 2 plug wire, swapped with #4 new plug wire, still flashing ses.
3. Went in back where car was parked for a year and worked on, searched for 10 min. wallla found New COIL gasket in bushes still in bag of coarse. Used a used one after loosing new one, Put new GASKET on 1 & 4 coil.

Wow so far just a service engine soon light (not flashing anymore), and low coolant light. I would never imagined that little gasket made the difference, I also unplugged the ICM harness and blew out the contacts. At least now I can drive to work and back.
Spray carb cleaner on contact point's on intake's, tb, inj and vac lines I can't find where the air is entering, assuming that's the ses light now. will get it scanned again tomorrow. And last but not least where is the low coolant sensor, probably have to pull the air breather box.
Thanks again

Edit: went to go to the store this morning and no ses light, went off after a block, hestates here and there, maybe moisture got in tank, tank was on E the whole year, so I will add inj. cleaner and heat to remove any moisture.
Thanks for pointing out the coolant sensor. I thought it would be on reservoir, every time I checked level it was at the top on Radiator and reservoir, I will clean after work todAY.

The sensor is on the passenger side of the rad, right below the rad cap basically.

cool thanks took car on a road trip 70miles round trip, to see if the cp would recognize any faults but nope low coolant light still on, will clean sensor today/or replace, my hud keeps going off and on mainly when I turn on the blower fan,(HUD turns off) is that a common prob? replace blower fan switch or hud? And darn I smell oil burning or something when I get out of car, checked under front valve cover, dry, have to check rear today I did lose one front exhaust mani bolt, maybe smell is coming from there, and the hg kit only came with one exhaust donut, I think went in between the rear mani and the middle pipe(only place I seen a exhaust donut. kit did not have the metal flang between rear exhaust and downpipe, will replace the flange, 1 missing exhaust bolt, and take off middle pipe and double check, make sure it isn't metal to metal on one of the contacts, looked like one end (middle pipe or front exhaust)was shaped to fit in the middle piece with no gasket.
Thanks for all the help.
Mario

The HUD issue is a bad solder joint some where. It's been a while since I've had to think about it but there is a thread on here dealing with that issue.

The HUD going off when blower fan is turned on or other electronic devices acting up like that are 99% of the time caused by the ignition switch. You can clean the contacts inside of it or replace the ignition switch or you can search up Jaybur's switch saver mod I think it was if you are handy with electronics.

Thanks gentlemen I am searching for ignition switch fix links, and get that fixed, I have to tab the car so all I got is 3 day permits, and can't see it cause rear defrost doesn't work when hud is working or blower fan is on(one of them.

You know I can't find jaybur's fix or anyother, I remember seeing in a fix a while back You needed a certain sized t? star socket, I am pretty good with electronics just want to make sure I have that socket before I start,
Thanks

I have a feeling that it didn't make it over when the forum was upgraded because I can't find it either. It might be on CGP somewhere I'll have a look.

I think this is a better fix anyway as opposed to his workaround.

Ignition Switch repair

that link did not work do you know if this is the switch for my 97 grand prix se
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/2/655874-pontiac-ignition-starter-switch-by-bwd-part-cs605.html

thats the one i ordered from oriellies, I guese there were two types, column shift and console shift, that one was for console shift.

Anyone got step by step ign.switch removal, this dang hanes dosnt say anything.
thanks

I will just start unbolting this and that, got a t-torx set, got home found out I needed a e-torx set, e-5 which I can't find anywhere, found a e-4, which undoes one of the nuts, hopefully the post I read was for an e-4 torx and not an e-5 torx, but you know murphy's law, got a have them all, stupid oriellies didn't have any e-torx and az had e4 single and a set with e-6 on up.
Definatly a switch prob though, I have the lower column plate off with the black box exposed, if I tap on it with ignition on start it will start up. I bought a new switch, will replace and tare old one apart to expirience cleaning the contact point's.

well tried to go around pullung steering wheel and went under top plate got a allen wrench down the hole to release the key cylinder(key in on/run position}but couldn't get the leverage or find the spot to push to release the key cylinder, slowly turned key, but could not hit the spot,tried different size allen's, I give up for the night. if I tap on the switch box I can get car to start,wished I could get that box apart on vehicle to clean contacts.
looks like steering wheel is coming off, I am forgetting something, I will get it tomorrow. going to find a better fsm also.

Hey it starts when I tap on the switch box, will running it like that till weekend, hurt/burn any components up? Also I went to Burien today to get tabs, when I got home(20 mile rt)smoke was coming out the rear sides of hood,in front of windshield looked light colored, don't know if it was from not replacing exhaust flange, between exhaust and rear mani, or possibly a clogged cat. I checked rear valve cover, and did see one of the rear bolts(right side middle ones) worked its way loose, and i felt wet oil in area, tightened it, hope that was the prob.The rest of the bolts were tight.
Thanks for any replies.

You're supposed to use loctite on all those exhaust bolts. It won't hurt anything to run with a failing switch.

I know it's a little late, but here's the link for removing the ignition switch, to clean the contacts: Ignition Switch Instructions (With Pictures) and the Ignition Bypass Mod

The hardest part of the job of course, is finding the right size torx sockets..

Thanks for the links on the switch, Well turned out my power steering hose had a leak and was the smoke culprit, even had a little fire on the o2, was able to blow it out, I did add a qrt of tranny fluid before smoke started, so I thought it was tranny fluid that came up filler tube and splashed on exhaust, so I drained about 1/2 to 3/4 qrt. anyway got ps hose on started her up and ps pump whined for a couple blocks then stopped, but now transmission is making noise, but only in park, when I put in gear noise stops, I added 1/2 qrt tranny fluid, but no change. any suggestions,
Thanks

With the car in Park on level ground, start the engine and let it reach operating temperature. Then step on the brake, and put the shifter in each gear for a few seconds, until you're back in Park again. Then check the trans fluid level with the engine running in Park, and add if necessary.

Thanks bud I did try that last night, thats when I put 1/2 quart in, and still noise in park, I will add more this morning and hope it goes away. Is noise in park only a sign of low tranny fluid? Just hope I didn't f it up when I added a quart or drained out to much.
I kept seeing red fluid on firewall and components around filler tube, even under brake booster, so I thought it was tranny fluid, smelled like tranny fluid, but found out my ps hose had a leak, when I detached the hose the ps fluid was reddish collored and smelled like tranny fluid, so been ps fluid all along.

Ok great nois is in tranny but not fluid related, the vac T I could not find I modified and one side goes down in to tranny,



it leaks, I pushed on T and sound went away,let go sound came back,for some reason I took off that black zip tie, I will put another tie back on for temp fix and go find the right T and fix, do you know where the evap can is at rear of vehicle? I put a hose coming up from drivers side that goes under car on rear vac T, just don't remember if that where I pulled it from 12 months ago, don't see any other loose vac lines so gotta be it.
Thanks, and no more fluid leaks!!!

The Evap Canister is behind the driver side rear wheel and housing liner. You'll need to remove both to get at it.

kool thanks, that means the hose I got hooke up to t next to rear mani is the right hose. Hey Blackarrow98GP
you are a great help and I thank you, and aprieciate all your time.

Now when I start car, I hear a light knock in engine, sounds lower engine, until warms up, I have 10-40 in car to thick for 129000 mile engine? auto parts/machinist said oil was on them, didn't relize he gave me 10-40 till I got home
Thanks

Hey when cleaning contacts on switch do these got to sanded down to bare brass or is the contact on left what they should look like.

(Borrowed image)

Thanks

Anyone?

Left is correct.

I just cleaned the black stuff off, but I should of took pitures of disasembly. dang key doesn't return back to run position got to pop back apart and reset cam and spring, will just keep fiddling till I get it right:

pic from another forum.

Well got to get a new switch, I either can't get cylender lock in key in run position , or, I turn the rectangle hole to where I can get cylinder lock in and car won't start and accessories only come on in start pos, or I move cam and spring in different position and key won't spring back to run. spring loaded so I must have to force the the end of spring that stick up into a certain spot. I got the end that stick out in the notch at 5 o-clock like in 2nd picture on this switch

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/542938-ignition-starter-switch-by-bwd-part-cs545.html

Replaced the switch, now No alarm, keyless entry.keyless lock, think I just need this relay and I am all done I blew it out switching wires to try and stop continuous flashing security light.
all fuses are good.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/D...ier=221854_0_0_

I read on there a bad relay could make things not function or stay engaged, which would explain continuous flashing security light.

Ok been together a few months, still have to get vac lines replaced that t off of TB, and go to fpr and tranny. check engine light comes on every now and then pretty sure its the leak. Check it later, but power isn't as good as it was before head work, it gets up and goes but seems like it did it faster before. Could be vac leak also, I was in such a hurry to get it going I didn't re compression test after head install, but will do after vac line replacement.
Would you consider putting this ZZP SS304 3-inch catted downpipe on my n/a for greater sound.

downpipe won't really change your exhaust sound.

Yea I was afraid of that, would need to put a cam in right? How much you figure? I am going to by the downpipe, might as well replace timing chain and throw in a cam.:) little here and a little there. This will ALL take place after back is fully functional, still having problems after last years accident.
then after all that I am looking to do tranny swap.

Cam will definitely change your exhaust tone. If you're going through the effort of camming though, better be tossing a blower on top while you're at it. Like you say, I'd make sure your current setup is running like it should before you throw any more variables in the mix. Downpipe will help your car breath better, but if you're already considering camming, I would bet in a year or two you'll be wanting to upgrade to headers instead. Something to keep in mind.

As for changing the exhaust tone, swap your stock muffler for a performance one and you'll get some more sound at idle. If you're keeping your stock res, it probably won't get too droney while cruising. I'd suggest either keeping stock res or stock muffs to keep it from getting too annoyingly loud.