Update, hope last install *page 9*

So I have a few projects, that some members know about.
Here's one, I just need to buy the pump, hoses and fittings, reservoir and figure out what to do with fuel rails.(intercooler)
I ordered the radiator fmhe yesterday off ebay.

Thanks to TBat for hood photochops!
I got to work soon, but I'll post more info on it later.

IC link: http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/escapest01/IC/?start=all

EDIT: Hood link:

http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/escapest01/Hood/





OOO, and the other project (thanks to notladstyle for the free hood):

Lookin good! I think the last one looks Rice IMO.

Looks good but don't go with the hood in the last pic..the flare thingys don't look good on an american car imo. Looks good otherwise!

those flares are off of a SRT10 viper

hope the IC works out good

That's fine. Have fun when it rains with the open cone bro...

...is that intercooler made of *gulp*


Wood?

oh my, that is wood. i hope you're plugging the coolant holes good.

i want an intercooler very bad but idk if i could use wood

Look nice...

1st wood birdhouse intake
2nd this thread

what next for wood?

Not fan of hood project for both pictures. SS scope look better like Chico or R.S. Hutchson's hood.

the first hood looks pretty wicked, dont know about the last though.

Edited: added pic, added hood link

A for effort.

I've spent less than $100 on the core. I just want to see if it will work. I really used the wrong wood, should of used solid wood material, like pine or popler.
I really like the bar and fin core of the guy Corey has been talking to. When I get the money and my wood core doesn't work out, I'll get the real deal core.

You *DO* know that wood expands and contracts based on humidity and temperature right?

As in, good luck getting that to seal...


EDIT: looks like I was a little late on this post >.<

It's going to be RTVed. If you look, I added quiksteel to some areas to widen the surface area for more sealing contact on the LIM.
If it doesn't work, then I'll get the aluminum core.

[img]http://www.cnfcgp.com/forum/forums/get-attachment.asp?action=view&attachmentid=151[/img]

If it does work, though, you've made a breakthrough. haha

Went to local speed shop, ordered (since they were out on the shelf) a 24" fuel line with 90* fittings so I can get the line around the blower and not over. I was able to snag the last used set of ZZP fuel rails for $120 shipped instead of the $140 shipped and $30 core charge!
But the fuel line that comes with it won't do the job. I only spent $19 on the fuel line at the speed shop!
I just now need a bigger belt, coolant, and probably some new (once again) lim gaskets. Probably throw in a new ECT sensor, only $14.
I got the cooling fan sensor installed in the radiator to plug the hole. I have the pump, reservoir is setup, and hoses/fittings. I am going to start installing stuff this week. Did a test fit of block of wood for hood clearance since my core is huge 2.75-2.85", it cleared. I may (probably will) have to cut Birdhouse intake up a little to place my reservoir over there, but it'll be ok because I don't like how the intake box looks right there with the flared wall on it.

Line looks similar to this, but 90 degree on both ends:






Pointless, but needs plug the hole up. $17

You could always make the sensor work so you can monitor IC Temp. Just an idea...

True. I can also tap into the wood core and do the same!!
I hope it works, I been going WOT around town alot lately, the whine is just so contageous!
I can't wait to throw my 3.25 back on and increase timing and see what this thing can do!

Quick question.
Why wood?

Not trying to be condecending(sp?), just curious. I've never seen anyone use wood in the engine before.

Wood is Cheep, easy to work with, and farely forgiving, if it works steve has something started

I paid $65 for the core, instead of $500+.
I made it myself!
Doesn't transfer heat like metal does as much.
And no one will no its wood unless I tell them.

That's pretty cool!
I would never have thought to use wood in the engine.

so how is it?

Wood works "well" with heat Phenolic works better

Wood is cost effective too though lol

where did you get the resevoir from Steve?

$10 at Advance. Think Wally Word has them too.
Waiting on some more parts.
My fuel line I ordered didn't come in yet.
Need to buy a belt, some coolant, and lim gaskets.
I'm painting and installing in sections.
Core and lim go on last.

Only thing about the reservoir is the crappy cap.
Would like to find something cheap with a screw on cap.

So got the fuel rails and built the reservoir.
I bought a new fuel line, $19, with 90* fitting. Wish it had both ends 90*, but they didn't have it. It's 24", the one zzp sent with it is like 14". I hope the 24" is long enough, they didn't have longer with 90* fitting.
Hope to install some things this week. Off work today and tomorrow, but Pops lined up a garage to bedroom renovation.
Enjoy!

are those the zzp rails with your own fuel line?

Yup! Afraid theirs wouldn't fit over the blower, plus need that extra clearance.

Looking good bro. Your the freaking custom king hahaha

Lol. Have you just used every single one of my ideas?

How so Corey?
The reservoir looks like crap now. Paint has peeled off. The fittings came loose.
I started to night on the install, 10 pm.
Couldn't make much noise in the garage, didn't really need to. Crappiest part was all the tools are in the work trailer, which we left at a job site. I couldn't find screws, nor some tools I needed. I just got done for the night, 2am.
It's not the prettiest, I may clean things up later, and may go with a better reservoir, something not as cheap as $10.
The removal of the bumper and all the plastic crap is a PITA. I hate those stupid plastic push pin things, just give me all screws GM!
The other issue is with this fmhe. The in/outs face forward, leaving me little room for the in piping. I wish I had a prebent hose for that sectoin. I was able squeeze in back in the bumper cavity!
I am just a little nervous about the connections all around. I did use some rtv to help seal some connections.

Another problem is my Birdhouse intake will need to be modified, basically chopped up.

After doing some of the install, I came up with a few more custom projects down the road!! LMAO

Took about 15 pics, catch the link to view everything:
http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/escapest01/IC/

Question for those IC'd. Did you guys leave out that big plastic barrier? I think I may leave it out, not sure if I can even get it back in:
This one:












This shot gives a little clue to my next project:

I like this pic, you can see my filter through the headlight hole:

You can't use the barrier because it blocks loads of airflow. Its just going to be harder to get the bottom guard on now.

If you go that low you won't be able to use your splash guard if you have one unless you do some serious hacking away.

Dang it, I couldn't get it higher due to the in port on the fmhe. It hits the headlight bracket, plus I'm afraid of it that low.

Let me just tell you that you will be able to see the FMHE under your bumper if you look at it from the front. If you don't believe me just clip your bumper for a little and see. Even I worry about the pipe you have the actual FMHE down there.

Your pretty much as low as my lower pipe

I can't get it higher, unless I figure another solution. So much for saving $50 on a cheaper FMHE which is causing an issue.

Wood core, VW FMHE, same reservoir, etc. lol

Mines almost done though! I'll probably be making your core!!!!
So chris I broke out the dremel, fmhe bottom is now even with stock radiator. Also dremeled small area for my pump!!!
Pics to come later tonight.

(Took 30 pics today. See link for all: http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/m252/escapest01/IC/?start=all)


The car sat over night with front end torn down, waiting for me get home from work today to tackle it again.
So I took fmhe out and inspected a way for higher fitment. The only thing I could do was hack the headlight bracket.
Dremel and sawzaw my friends tonight!!
I was able dremel a section out so the fmhe could raise up 4-5" higher. I also have the hose going in to fmhe on top of bumper instead of running through it.



I wired in the pump. I wired in a switch for it so when I go to track, in the stagging, it won't run, so I can flip it on and get ice cold coolant running through via reservoir before I hit the 1/4!

I also found a tight little spot for the pump. I had to do a little dremeling to clear some space.
Perfect location.




I didn't install the one splash guard, however, I hacked the tops of, left and right, and put them back in.


The lower splash gaurd I had to hack up to clear pump, and hose, and outlet of fmhe.


I also hacked the black funnels leading from grills to radiator so the air flows more to the fmhe.

I dremeled out behind license plate cover, so when at track I can take off cover (or whenever) and get some nice air flow. I hacked the foam bumper little free up some air flow.
I plan to buy some xtreme mesh (like my grills) and make a front license plate when I plan to remove the stock license plate cover.


I had to hack the support for the hood latch too, the arm ran straight down to the lower radiator area.

I ran the hose in the engine bay like so just so I didn't have to bother taking bumper off again to run hose the outlet of the pump. That is the reason it is tiptied around the engine bay.
I got some marine sealant 5200 to work on my reservoir, since it didn't work the first time.
I got some krylon black plastic paint, hopefully this will hold on the reservoir.
Now I just need finish reservoir, and get some coolant, lim gaskets, and coolant els again.
Half way through....

Looks sick bro! FMHE looks mean when you look at it from the front.

Nice job cutting the headlight support. No issues with fitment?

Also did you cut in and down on the hood latch support or did you just cut it completely?

Anyways its coming along well keep it up and good luck.

I cut whole arm off, it rests on fmhe now little extra support. Fmhe not as blingy as frozen boost or zzp, mine prob stay grilled in anyways

yeah i got a FMHE its something from jegs, but im having a hard time trying to find a cap for it, steve it looks good and i can wait to see some vid clips of this thing running

A cap?
I'm interested, or would like know, how this fmhe since its designed for a vw radiator performs compared to the shorter style frozenboost or zzp style ones, short and fat.

yes its basicaly a radiator, i will get pics so then i wont need a resavor or anything

The project plan sound look good. Good job.

Awaiting belts in mail (not sure exact size to run, so bought two different sizes 685, 680 gates), LIM gaskets, need buy some coolant and coolant els.

what happened to going to the parts store to get parts, even having to order belts lol jp steve

Um...two belts online for price one belt at local parts store! Save $$$$, plus not sure size I need yet

Gaskets arrived, belts arrived.
Need get ECT sensor, coolant, coolant els and have at the install.

She's running with the wood intercooled system!
After a full day, 9 hours by myself.

Update with pics and story after I clean up.

ONLY YOU CAN PREVENT FOREST FIRES lol

Ah the smell of BBQ as I drive down the road!

Lets see some numbers or something. What is it with everyone teasing on this site?

I'm really interested here.

First off, according to this thread my blower is a double paper weight.
http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4511279
But for the time being its my power adder.

Views all pics here: Install pics

Started this morning about 10am.
Started tearing it down.
According to the above clubgp thread, by triangle is ported to wide.
So I wanted snap pics for them and I noticed half my rotors coating is gone, yikes!
Anyways, I installed new lim gaskets and put the lim I got from 4drgt that I had to make custom pcv passeges in, spray painted balck also.
I also had to add some quiksteel to the blower near a pcv passage to prevent any vac leak.
I also filled in the bypass hole that the core does not cover in the wooden core (pic not taken).
RTV'd the core, and slapped it on.
Had pops come out and help me feed the s/c through the wires and onto the core.
Installed allen head bolts I bought. Tried torquing to 17, but one would be loose, so I got them to around 14 or so and just snugged them the best I could. Will check them in a few days.
Had to do little bit of dremeling to get ZZP rails fit with the core, since some of it was large. Other than the that, the rails went in fine. I tried using the new fuel line I bought locally, but it didn't work out right. So I tried zzps that goes over blower, and it fit by millimetets, and looks way better.
The two belts I bought a off line were too small. Largest being 69 1/8". I went to advance and got their 70 1/2" belt. I think I can throw on a 70", but they didn't have one in stock.
I may return my two and get a 70" and a 69 5/8" for the 3.25 pulley.
I also bought a new ECT sensor, and tried plugging it in, and it would go.
You know its a PITA to get to that thing, but I had to take it out see the problem. Well the plug socket wasn't correct. I had to go to store and tell them it wasn't right. Well it was a universal one for GPs and I needed the Temperature Switch ECT sensor, TUxxx one.
Had to route some vac lines a little, was easy.
My reservoir crapped out again, so I threw it away and fabbed up a temp T. I need find another reservoir.
Priming and deleting system of air was a PITA.
The car fired right up.
I also had issue with the s/c belt hitting the coil packs. Well quick fix I cut a piece of PT 2x4 and installed that! LOL
Did some tuning tonight, cruise trims way lean pegging at 16s in some areas.

Not sure how much the blower is holding me back being paper weight material, but we'll see how the car does.
The core is 2-3/4" thick, and the hood closes.
Some guy on clubgp said it wouldn't.
The driver side lifs a little, since the vac tree hits the hood, but the custom hood should fix this issue when that is done.
I forgot to take a picture of just core sitting on LIM.

That's pretty cool.

I just saw that you said you used the wrong wood.. what kind did you end up using?

It just makes me really concerned seeing wood in the engine bay. If it works though I guess its fine. Looks really good.

Something that didn't router well.
Is was like a plywood, should of went with something solid, like popler or pine or somethign. Not something that is synthetically made.

Depending on the wood, it takes nearly 450* temps to catch wood on fire.
And most of the time you need a flammable.
The paint is rated 500* I painted it with too.
It'll be fine. I'm sure there are plenty other problems that could arise than the wood issue.

Guys run wood carb spacers on the older cars, that's where I first got the idea for one. I figured if they could do it, why can't we!

Well regardless it is pretty cool and cant wait for him to tell us some of the results that it added.

Yes but keep in mind that wood is laminated to protect it from all the crap in an engine (oil, fuel and such).

I agree, but Steve coated his with something, although I'm not sure what.

I like cgp because the Turbo section is awesome. Loads of good guys over there. No bs unless roasting noobs or going back and fourth on a topic.

To the main point nice job bro. Came out great but I'd be worried about it canceling itself out. Wood with heat of the blower and engine heating the core. It looks good though and good luck with it.

Oh and btw Cheaper FTW!

What do you mean? Wood has one of the highest heat heat capacities, unlike the aluminum cores that are offered by the vendors. The whole point of using something like that is to keep the core from getting as hot.

Ya Corey, guess pays to do research!
If I get some money, I may go Gen V setup.
So the LIM and Core would be for sale.
Not sure when that'll happen.
But the blower seems to be a draw back now due to the coating and bad porting.

Have you started up the car 20gtp02 and have you taken it for a run? Sorry to kinda just jump in i know I dont know much about intercoolers, because I don't really ever have to worry about one but just wondering if you've taken it for a run yet or if its not in running condition.

Hmm I didn't even think about it that way lol

Idk to me heat is heat unless its the wicked expensive phenolic material lol.

I didn't see that sorry.

Heat is heat, but the core is sandwiched between two pieces of wood, rather than the aluminum that the vendors offer. The specific heat of wood is 1700 J/kg K compared to the specific heat of aluminum that is 900 J/kg K. That just means that it takes a lot more heat to make the wood hot, as opposed to the aluminum.

Dude its 1:30 in the morning I don't feel like doing joule per kilogram kelvin chemistry lol.

HAHA!
Corey did the research for you, and all.

I need a reservoir.
Something that isn't cheap plastic, but I want spend little on or little as possible....

I have the stock overflow from my car. Thats wha Just Your Shadow is using.

Better change the sig to say woodcooled LOL

Any pics or setup on how he did it?

lol. I know. I just wanted everyone to see why wood was the chosen material. I could explain it better if anyone wants.

O snap I never saw this thread! That looks HOT.

did you fix the dent in it?

IIRC its in the Thread Corey posted about those intercoolers (IRC Fab?? I think)

great job Steve.

How much did the whole setup end up costing you in the end?

I say around $500.
I ended up buying some more crap and some crap I didn't need, like two belts that were too small and what not.
But now I need a need blower and rotors.
Tuning it has me weirded some.

Saw that Corey bought some phenolic, and since I had an oil leak (due to my crappy intalls on the lim), I inspected the core and it wasn't in good shape. Didn't feel safe putting it back on, and the rtv blocked one of my pcv passages.
So while picking up supplies for a job at Lowe's (since the ebay seller for phenolic didn't have anything in a workable size) I grabbed a 6'x12"-3/4" $40 piece of red oak.
The old core was 2-3/4" thick, this new one is three pieces and makes up 2-1/4", which is 1/2" smaller in thickness.
The 1/2" will help with hood clearance, but it makes it way harder to reroute the pcv passages now.
It's 90% complete right now.
I need to finish painting outside, finsih up pcv passages, and pick up my blower from the shop.
I went ahead and made sleeves, Thanks Herc for the idea.
The harder oak wood should help from compressing as much as the other crap I had (it was really bad), and the sleeves should provide the strength so I can torque it down properly now.
It's been a PITA.
I just need my car back, hasn't been up and running for a week.

I hope this core works out for you. It is definitely an improvement over the old core.

I think you should have just put the blower back on without the belt for the time being so you could drive it until you could get a good chunk of phenolic to work with.

Ya I know, but blower is in the shop.
I have spare rotors, housing, and snout, but I don't have spare tb or maf, which is attached to the blower thats in the shop...
Don't want to keep taking it on and off, want to be done with it for at least a month! haha

What is the blower in the shop for?

The oulet shape was changed.
Going to have this guy weld in some material so I can get the "right triangle outlet" shape again.
Also have him block the silencer ports.

When I had my silencer ports welded it kept getting very very small hairline cracks in the outlet. It didn't cause any problems and maybe it was just my blower but i'd double check yours for larger cracks as well just to make sure. Or else you may be moving on to wood core v.3.

I just put some screws through it and JB welded my silencer ports. lol.

How did you put screws through it?
I was tempted to try shaping the triangle, but thought if it came off crap would hit the fan!!

Looks as expected. When can you put it on to see if it seals?

Welder probably have blower tomorrow.
I called him and he said maybe later today, if not, definitely tuesday.
It should seal, last one did.
RTV FTMFW!
Just gonna drive the vette around today!

Core still far from perfect, rushed it.
Plus hard wood and using 35 year old router.

Was it not leaking causing a vac leak and messing up your fuel trims?

Think lim causing vac leak since had big oil leak and one my pcv passages got blocked due to rtv since blower compressd the wood core a ton.

Well I'm going to give you a big thumbs up not that it looks perfect but you are now getting the whole idea behind hot-rodding,long before you could buy off the shelf performance parts guys were breaking ground designing parts from what they had available ,it is nice that we have well designed aftermarket parts we can just bolt on but there is a certain satisfaction in designing and building cheap working mods ,again good work and keep trying as you gain experience and money (for better tools) your projects will only get better.Chico(pops)

That is ingenuative! Take pride in your accomplishments, even if it doesnt work as expected. Benjamin Franklin said that he found 200 ways on how NOT to make a light bulb. Keep that in mind.

What made you decide on Red Oak? The density? The strength? How are you going to make sure the wood compresses enough to get a good torque? I read RTV and weight of the blower, but will that be enough? How about pressurizing the wood?

I may be wrong, but I don't think that was Franklin.

Thomas Edison lol

Learn your history !

You sure it wasnt Jack Kennedy? Didnt he do something...substantial? LOL, tyvm for the correction.

Well since the first one got destroyed being compressed without sleeves, and Corey bought the last two decent sized pieces of phenolic from a seller on ebay. I was at Lowes and was like I'm going try something else. Saw some Oak and grabbed it.
I felt unsafe and didn't want to install the first one, its warped and crap.
Rtv will do just fine, and the sleeves will help with torque.

He said normally $75 be charged me $60.
He forgot the silencer ports, but I want my blower back said I didn't say anything.
I think I'll just leave them the way they are. I got to smooth it up a little, but hopefully it will be on the car this afternoon, after I go to the beach!!

Before (bad outlet job):



After:

Whoever ported that blower the first time really messed up that outlet port lol. Way too wide lol.

Well GL with the repair bro.

Get some metal epoxy / liquid weld and weld them up. That will work fine, sets in less than 10 minutes and cures in a few hours.

That's what I did.

The welds look great you just need to clean up the edges. Get rid of the little bumps.

The guy lined that up perfectly. It is supposed to run along the rotor. Nice work!

I cleaned it up some. I was in a rush and tired of the car being down.

I turned the pulley while off the car, and things were smooth.
Once core and blower on the car, I turned the pulley and had some bind. I did that for sometime try free that small bind up.
I started car with s/c belt off, started right up again. My idle is at 1500 rpms though, thinking vac leak somewhere, and my ltfts are pegging again.
My lim rtv reseal seems to be working, no more oil leak.
I put the s/c belt on and started it. The blower began make a loud noise (like a moped going WOT).
Shut it down for the night, and went out for Cinco de Mayo.
I started it this morning and blower noise is gone but idle is up and fuel trims pegged.
Trying find this issue is annoying.
Can partial block of pcv passages cause this fuel trim issue?

Take off your oil cap or pull out your dipstick a touch and run without PCV and see how your fuel trims react.

Took blower and core off and resealed with new rtv.
Idle is down from 1500 to 850s.
Still vac leak somewhere, IAC hitting 0s.

Try taking the core off and sealing the blower right to the LIM. This will tell you whether or not it is the core.

That means on off two more times

Yes, but you could spend a few more days trying to fix something else that isn't broke.

Idk, seems to me like the wood core is the most probable cause and that is what I would try first.

Either way, I hope you find it soon, I know persistent problems can be a PITA.

Its just so hard to find it since you can't see in it or near anything.
I noticed one of my front injectors that the little circular piece below the oring is gone, but it still looks like it makes a seal.
I'm still confused on all the holes the come out the bottom of the supercharger housing.
Some get blocked by a gasket in a normal setup.
I need to hook the tuner up today and see how the IAC counts look, cause car runs much nicer now, just trims are jacked and the IAC was hitting 0s.

Yea, I was always annoyed by that too, not sure which holes in the blower were for what purpose. Take a look at ZZP's i/c cores and look at what holes they have blocked off. They retain PCV and everything else so if the hole isn't in their core then you don't need it in yours. I believe most of the holes don't do anything, they are just holes in the casting. You can pretty much do with just the s/c outlet and the BBV hole. You don't even need the PCV (if you don't want to run PCV) or coolant holes.

As for PCV, is their any reason why you really want to keep it? I don't have PCV because of my TB. I didn't have a breather for a while so I ran with the dipstick out a bit so it didn't seal and that solved those issues till I did get a breather.

You could try pulling the dipstick a bit to eliminate the PCV and see if it affects your IAC's any.

From reading over at clubgp, and prj speaking, need to have some sort of pcv function due to crank case building air.
A breather is not replacing the pcv system.

Well to eliminate the PCV routing in the blower then.

Yes, you will still have PCV so I shouldn't have used the word 'eliminate' but I was more referring to eliminating PCV as the cause of your IAC problems.

The breather is what allows the pressure building in the crank case to escape. If you had nowhere for the PCV to go and no breather you would hear it, I could hear it on my car when the I had no breather and the dipstick was seated correctly.

Many people, especially turbo ppl, run with a breather because of PCV functionality and they don't have issues.

Do all these turbo dudes run some sort of external pcv setup?

Well, some of the new kits can retain PCV functionality.

But no they don't, they run a breather and that's that.

I'm running an external PCV setup since the probe core was too big.

I may be trying this Corey and others:

http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.asp?m=4882124

That's a really cool idea. Good luck with it. Once I finish mine, I'll make a post on it.

I have a vac leak somewhere. This may help because be less areas for leaks to occur.
I just need to know exaclty what I can block off.

I blocked off everything. I'll post a pic tonight or tomorrow.

How about tonite.

lol. alright, Ill go grab my camera.

I just don't to keep wasting rtv and keep taking this damn blower on and off.

So I guess I can block all them too except for the one near cyliner #6 in that clubgp thread since I'm not going to be doing what you are going to do Corey.
I just don't know if I need to block the pcv passage I have in the N* just before the throttle blade.

The school here has a Fog machine that pump's into your vacume line that will show you exactly where the leak is coming from.. Might be something to consider.

Ran this line today. It's a start.
Still need block some passages and remove core and blower again.
But this line kept the IAC counts hovering above 0. So I'm getting there.

I did some investigating and reading up on PCV system, Positive Crankcase ventilation.
I looked at a spare LIM and SC housing for a good hour.
I drew a line on the housing to show the metered air coming in from just in front of the tb blade.
These holes I blocked off now and running the metered air from the maf coupler through the front valve cover as pictured in above post.
I also found my vac leak.
It helps to have the coolant red!!
I seen a spot in a location on the ground that seemed strange.
Near cylinder #2 injector I found red coolant and then once core was off I found same in the LIM.
So I ran fluid through the core and couldn't get the core to leak. I don't know exactly where it leaked, maybe from outlet piping, and then it got sucked into the vac leak location in the back there. I am not sure.
I hope, really hope, core is not leaking.
I ran fluid through it, shook it wildly, and couldn't get it to leak.
So I buttoned everything back up and am waiting for it to all dry over nite this time before I try start it in the morning.
Learn somethig everytime I take it all apart.

Stupid question, but you did block off the coolant holes in the LIM, right?

Ya those been blocked off long time ago.

Was red coolant, ic coolant, not green for engine coolant.

dang i wonder if im going to have to do that with my ssic

No go.
Started up fine, numbers looking fine.
But slowly and surely IAC counts managed to go down to 0.
I'm at a lost to figure out a leak now.

try the carb clean around everything to see if you have a leak maybe try to remove the SC and run without it and see how everyting is then add the ic