97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first

Originally posted by lonezergling:

I run Pacesetter headers with a 3" cat'd downpipe into a custom resonator-less 2.5" stainless SE-style cat-back with one Flowmaster Super 40 and a big bore resonating tip.

My car is very loud. Not 454 Chevy with Zoomies loud, but WAY louder than stock.

I have terrible exhaust leaks from the headers but witht he XP cam, you can hear EVERY LOPE of the cam.

Without the resonator, there will be lots of in-car noise. Maybe not the brain rattling drone like many say but you WILL hear your exhausr plain as day inside the car.

Here's what I'm going to say you do.

If you want a good sound but DON'T want ti loud, I'd say get the usual 3" cat'd downpipe w/ u-bend delete from ZZP and maybe a P-log.

That will open up your exhaust a little bit, make it a little deeper but nothing much. That stuff is good for at least 10hp AND it gives your exhaust a better note. The cat-back won't give you anything and costs 2x as much.


From then on, if you want a better TONE out of the car, your best bet is to have an exhaust shop weld in 2 aftermarket mufflers in place of the stock ones. Flowmaster Super 40s and Magnaflows are the top ones around here. Grab a set of resonating tips in the style you want and you will have a nice deep exhaust.

Originally posted by D:
Ok well I'm bored and maybe Herc or Bobby can put this in the FAQ section, so its there for people to see.

SS M90 Build:
First off you need the ZZP Install Kit . Now with this if you have a 99 or newer car you will need the Alternator bracket, so you will have to pick that in the drop down menu. Now unless you have a Powrtuner or HP Tuner then you need to have ZZP do you programming. As far as the Option 3 if you want to start out with the 4.0" pulley then you will have to upgrade your injectors to GTP 36# injectors. If you have a 01 or newer GP then you will need the injector harnesses which you can also get from ZZP.

Now along with the ZZP install kit you will need 4 other things.

1. You will need a Machined Intake , the reason for this is b/c the injectors are at a different angle so ZZP custom makes there LIM to work with the injector angle of the L36. In this window you would need to select SS M90 for L36 converstion. Add the core charge and I also suggest you get the LIM gasket so you don't have to go searching for it later.

2. You will need the ZZP Billet Fuel Logs . The reason for these is b/c your old rails will not fit with the blower on the top of the engine. You can try and modify L67 fuel rails, but its a PITA, and unsafe is you dont do it right. So it may be expensive but easyer to by the rails. Just pick SS M90 in the drop down menu.

3. You will need a Ported M90 Supercharger , you need this blower b/c it is also custimized to fit on top of the LIM and adds cleance for the injectors. First pick your year then the core charge then pick SS M90, you dont need the Oil b/c it comes with the SS install kit.

4. You will need a ZZP Modular Pulley System , now if you are upgradeing the injectors then get the 4.0" if not then get the 4.2".

Now that is about it, but as a side note you will need Synthetic Oil after you are done and you have to do and oil change along with add some coolant.

Now for my option, I think you should add a few more things to the cost of the project either a Powrtuenr or HP tuner b/c you will need to scan and adjust fuel and timing to get the most power out of your set up or you can invest in someone to tune your car like a tuner shop, so you can also get the most out of the kit. Also I would spend the extra money and upgrade injectors and get the 4.0 pulley becuase you will regreat it after you are done and you only have the 4.2 pulley on, and for alittle more money you get alot more power.

With the Kit you should look to spend close to about $1500, if you can get the cores cheaper then you then it will safe you some moeny, If you add the upgraded injectors and a PT or HP tuner then you should look to spend close to $2100. But its all in what you want. This is basically just a guide for you guys I may have missed something that is why I would suggest before you order call ZZP or email ZZP and see what they have to say, but other then that this should be it.

Ray

Originally posted by Chico:
I would add that 1.9 rockers and a plog and rear pem + a 3.8 pulley would be on my list of minimums.Chico(pops)

Originally posted by Blackarrow98gp:
Fuel pressure should be 48-55 psi at the fuel rail, with the key on and the pump running.

Originally posted by Blackarrow98gp:
Yep, fuel pressure spec is from the '98 GM Service Manuals, and applies to S/C 3800 fuel systems. Fuel pressure spec for NA 3800 is 41-47 psi. If the fuel system drops more than 5 psi in 10 minutes, check for leaks in one or more of the following areas: Fuel pump check valve, flex pipe (part of pump assembly), valve or valve seat in the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injector(s). Inspect the fuel lines for leaks or obstructions as well.
When checking fuel pressure, bear in mind that the pump only runs for about 2 seconds with the key on. It may be necessary to cycle the ignition off for 10 seconds, then back on to get an accurate reading at the gauge.

Originally posted by spillway47:
As promised, here is the write up and the before and after pictures of my passenger's side headlight, using the Permatex Headlight Restoration Kit to try to undo the crazing at the top of the lens.

Some preliminary info: First, since it was still cold and threatening rain, I just removed the headlight and brought it inside. Second, I followed the manufacturer's directions to the letter.

Permatex gives you four 1/8 sheets of wet/dry sandpaper going from 1000, to 1500, to 2000, and a very fine 2500 to end up with. The container it all comes in serves as a water container where you soak each sheet for 10 minutes before use.

You also get 2 exam gloves, a small piece of soft cloth, and a small bottle of polishing liquid to complete the job.

Since I was dealing primarily with crazing, and no real cracks to speak of, per the instructions I didn't begin with the 1000 grit, I started with the 1500. They recommend you go back and forth with one grit, then up and down with the next one, and so on, which I did. This worked out well since I was going back and forth (side to side) first and last, and only up and down once. It's much easier to go side to side than it is up and down with you've got the headlight out of the car.

They recommend you change the water you're using between each grit, too, which seemed like a good idea to me. As I said, I followed their instructions entirely.

After the sanding was complete, the headlight looked cloudy on the outside, but felt smooth to the touch.

Next comes the polishing, for which they give you about 1 oz. of polishing liquid and a small soft cloth. This will work up a sweat. You really have to get after it, with lots of elbow grease, to get all the ultra-fine sandpaper scratches out of the plastic. I used up almost the entire 1 oz. bottle before I finally got the lens clear and shiny.

Last but not least, I rinsed the lens off with warm running water, and buffed it to a high shine with a microfiber towel.

My conclusions are after the before and after pics.



---



My conclusions:

The results (to me) were impressive. My biggest concern was that I wasn't getting enough light through the lens to properly light up the road on my way home every night at midnight, and last night I noticed a huge difference, especially with the brights on.

So all in all, the product worked as advertised, the instructions were clear and easy to understand, and the materials enclosed were top quality.

Having said that, it seems to me that $15.99 is an awful lot of money to spend on four 1/8 sheets of sandpaper, some polishing liquid, and a soft cloth. They also enclose 2 rubber exam gloves, which may be why it's so expensive.

If I had to do it over I'd just buy some similar grit wet/dry sandpaper and use some Turtle Wax polishing compound. There is a link floating around with just those very instructions, and I could've saved maybe $6-$7 by going that route. But if you don't have the time to hunt down the materials, this Permatex kit should do the job.

James.

Originally posted by D Richard:
Found this and it works on how it is removed.
Looks like it is the switch, I took it all apart and the brake lights work and signal but not the 4 ways. The switch will not stay down, so I need to replace it. I will go to the dealer next week.
Thanks for all the help
Dave
Step 1:
First you'll need to remove the bottom steering column cover. Use the appropriate sized male torx bit on the middle back screw and also remove the 2 other screws on each side. The cover has plastic loops where it attaches to the dash so you must move it towards the dash and then down to release it.

Step 2:
Now its time to remove the top steering column cover. First you'll need to remove the tilt steering lever though. Using a flashlight, look into where the lever attaches to the steering column. You will see a metal tab that you can push on to release the tilt lever and pull it out. Now you can take off the top steering column cover. Looking up from underneath you will see 2 male torx screws holding it on. One on each side of the steering wheel. You can use either needle nose pliers to remove these if you don't have female torx screw bits. Once these are removed, use a pair of tin snips to cut the plastic just below the key lock or you won't be able to get the cover up and around the key lock. Now carefully spread that part of the cover up and around the key lock while pushing back towards the dash with the cover. It should release and come off.

Originally posted by r.s.hutchinson:
[b]Installing HID's - Single Beam and Bi Xenon

What the kit comes with:

Single Beam 9007's

2 ballasts + mounting material
2 bulbs
All required wiring harnesses


Bi Xenon 9007's

2 ballasts + mounting material
2 telescoping bulbs
All required wiring harnesses + relay


Before you start:

It is highly recommended that you disable your DRL's and your security flash before installing your HID's. It is not good to flash HID's as it strains your ballasts and can cause them to fail prematurely and will also diminish the life of your bulbs. Also, DRL's will not provide the HID's with sufficient energy and the HID bulbs will constantly flicker. This is obviously not good for the bulbs and can become highly annoying. Lastly, do not turn on HID's without the car running.

Disabling Security headlight flash

1) Pull the "MALL PGM" fuse in the glove box
2) Turn your key to accessory
3) Hit the lock button on your key-fob until there is only 1 chime.
4) Put the key back to off
5) Plug the fuse in.

Disabling DRL's in 97-98 Models

You need to pull the DRL fuse behind the glovebox. Fuse number (coming soon)

Disabling DRL's in 99-03 Models

coming soon.


What you need to do:


Mounting the ballasts:

Their are many different ways and locations where you can mount the ballasts. I recommend screwing them to your bumper for multiple reasons. Also, you don't need to remove the bumper cover to do this. You can remove the black shroud in between the bumper cover and rad support, this should give you more than enough room to get a drill in there. Start off by removing the headlights and shroud so you have some room to move your hands around. Then position the ballasts however you like but because the wires are only so long, the closer to the headlight the better. Use some self tapping screws and mount the ballast bracket to the bumper. Now take the ballast and slide it into the bracket. Make sure it is snug in the bracket, you don't want this to slide out when turning. This will have to be repeated for the other ballast on the other side.
Another alternative is to use two sided tape to mount the ballasts, this is less time consuming but also less secure.


Wiring:

Single Beam Bulbs

Check your headlight sockets that came with the kit. All too often it will be wired incorrectly, most likely for a 9004 bulb. The socket for a single beam 9007, if wired correctly, should go 'empty, ground, low beam' and should look like this:



If it does not look like this, then you must remove the pins from the socket using a metal pick and re wire accordingly.

The other end of this wiring harness connects directly into your ballast.


Bi Xenon Bulbs

The included wiring harness probobly only has 1 headlight socket. It does not matter whether it connects to the driver or passenger side. The headlight socket here should look very similar to the single beam sockets like pictured above, except it will have a pin in the hi beam spot as well as the ground and low beam pins. This harness will also have 1 power and 2 ground wires; one for each side. These 3 wires will come with crimped on eyelets. The power eyelet I bolted directly to the top of the fuse box under the hood. As for ground, make sure you grind away ALL PAINT, you must have bare metal to get a good ground. You can bolt it to your bumper or to the rad support behind the headlight, whichever you find easiest. After you have grounded them, throw some paint over it and all bare metal so that it does not rust. Also on this harness will be 2 hi-lo trigger wires, 1 for passenger and 1 for driver side lights. These connect directly to the trigger wire on the bulb end. The last 2 plug ends connect directly into the ballasts themselves.


Bulbs: *DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB GLASS!!*
Oils from your finger will diminish it's life. Only handle it by the plastic base.

Single Beam Bulbs

This is very straight forward. The bulb goes into the headlight capsule just like stock and has two plug connections on the end. These two ends connect directly into the corresponding plug ends coming out of the ballast.

Bi Xenon Bulbs

Again, the bulb goes in just like stock however these bulbs will have a hi-lo trigger wire in addition to the 2 plug ends. The 2 plug ends connect to the plug ends on the ballast. The hi-lo trigger end connects to the hi-lo trigger wire on the wiring harness.


That's it - Everything should be connected and working. Keep the bulbs on for atleast 10 minutes for the initial start up.

I will add pictures and diagrams as I take/draw them so that you can also see how everything is connected.

Thanks to 01GTShaner for the pics. [/b]

Originally posted by 20gtp02:


667= 67.250"
660= 66.750"
653= 65.875"
650= 65.500"

667 size for stock.

No IC
Grand Prix
3.8 (Stock): 667
3.2-3.6: 660
2.85-3.1: 650
2.7-2.85: 642

Bonneville
Stock: 721
3.4: 716


With ZZP Stage 2 IC (2.25” tall Core)
6 Rib
3.3-3.8: 685
2.7-3.2: 680 (Note that the NAPA 680 may be too long for 2.8" and smaller. Try a NAPA 672)
2.5-2.6: 672

8 Rib NOTE: For these belts the part numbers are 080 rather than 060...or K8 with the Duralast rather than K6.
3.0-3.2: 685
2.6-2.9: 680

Gen 5 Blower
2.9-3.1: 685
2.7-3.0: 680
2.4-2.6: 675


With ZZP Stage 3 IC (2.375" Core)
6 Rib:
3.1-3.8: 685
2.6-3.0: 680

Gen 5 Blower
3.0-3.8: 685
2.6-2.9: 680
2.3-2.55: 675


With ZZP SSIC (1” tall Core)
3.2-3.8: 670
3.9-3.1: 667 (Stock belt)
2.8: 660


With MAP IC (2.0” tall Core)
3.1-3.4: 680
2.8-3.0: 672


ZZP SS M90 Conversion
970 - SS M90 for 97/98
950 - 3.8-4.2 SS M90 for 99+
947 - 3.5-4.0 SS M90 for 99+

Other Belts

060915 - Stock accessory belt for 99+
-also works with either UD WP pulley or OD alt pulley but not both.

060923 - Accessory belt for 99+ with UD WP pulley and alt UD pulley.

4060935 - Stock accessory belt for 97/98 (94").

4060938 - Accessory belt for 97/98 with underdrive pulleys.

Originally posted by Drakhan:
I thought this would be useful to someone...

At this page

Enter the generic library card number:
[b]123456789

Select:
Public library of Cincinatti and Hamilton counties

Sroll down and select:
Auto repair and reference center [/b]

Originally posted by SlickGTP:
For all those that are having problems removing the key after parking the car.


Ignition Shift Lock Diagnostic and Repair:

Required Tools/Supplies:

3/8" Ratchet
12" and 6" extensions for the ratchet.
10mm or 13mm Sockets(can't remember what size is needed)
Small and medium sized flat bladed screwdrivers
Emery boards or fine sand paper
Some Elbow grease
Dielectric grease
2 - Bolts with nuts
1 - Bolt with nut
Wrenches that fit the above bolts
Dremel or similar device with a grinding/cutoff wheel
Lotsa Patience


_________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Diagnostics:

Remove the Center Console tray and place out of the way. You will also want to empty the cubby at the front of the console. To remove the Center Console lid, open the cup holder, set the parking brake, place the shifter in D/3, and pry up from the back to the front. If this is the first time this has been done on your car it will be a little difficult. There are about four sets of clips on both sides of the lid. Take your time and it should come off intact, just move slowly. When all the clips have been disengaged, slide the lid up and rearward off the center console. Place it out of the way somewhere.

Next remove the Shift Knob, Boot, and Shift Indicator plate. To do this you will need to take out the clip that holds the knob onto the shifter. It's located towards the bottom front of the knob. I found that a small screwdriver worked best to pry it forward and out. After the clip has been removed, all three pieces can be removed as one.

Remove the wire harness plug from the front of the Shifter. While listening to the steering column, carefully jump the pink and purple/white wires in the plug to see if the solenoid in the column activates.

[img]http://www.unknownbrewer.com/gallery2/ma..._serialNumber=2[/img]

There should be a click when the wires are jumped. If the solenoid activates then the issue probably lies in the module that the plug goes into. Otherwise, the issue is either in the wiring harness or the lock cylinder.

WARNING: If you jump the wrong wires, you will most likely blow the BTSI fuse. I've done it and hence the my warning.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________

To remove the module, you will need to remove the Shifter Assembly. First disconnect the Transmission selector from the Shifter Assembly. The rod pops off of the Shifter with a little side pressure and then there is a little clip that holds it to the front of the Assembly. Next remove the wiring harness clips from base and unbolt the Assembly from the floor of the car.

[img]http://www.unknownbrewer.com/gallery2/ma..._serialNumber=2[/img]
[img]http://www.unknownbrewer.com/gallery2/ma..._serialNumber=2[/img]

After the bolts have been removed, the Shifter can be removed from the car and taken somewhere where you can perform surgery. xD

First grind off the rivet that holds the Shifter to the base of the assembly. Once the rivet has been removed, take the shifter off of the base.

Now, pop off the little circular disc and remove the little plastic lever from the module. Grind the two rivets that hold the module to the Shifter. Remove the rivets and slide the module off of the shifter taking care not to lose the spacer disc that sits between them as well as the funky cylindrical piece that fits into the module and just happens to be spring loaded.

Alrighty, at this point you should have a little black box that fits in the palm of your hand. There are four clips that hold it together. Carefully disengage each of the clips and pull the lid off of the module. I've found a small screwdriver to be handy here. With the lid off of the module, you should see a circuit board with a few different things on it. You're primarily interested in the long brass looking switch that rests on a contact and the end of a nylon rod.

Take a fine emery board or sand paper and lightly sand the contacts on the switch. After sanding them, place a small amount of dielectric grease on the contacts and reassemble the module.

At this point everything should be the reverse of what's been done up to now. The only exception is that you will need to replace the rivets with bolts. The one suggestion I have is when you bolt things back together on the assembly, place a drop of loktite on bolts. I didn't do this and one of the bolts fell out after the nut had come loose. For the few days that it was like this, it felt like I had a manual in my car, but that's besides the point.

_____________________________________________________

I'll be adding pics of the actual module tonight, but I figured I should at least get this out for y'all to look over. Holler at me if you have questions and I'll help wherever I can.

-- John

Edit: looks like I need to fix those pictures too.. Sorry for the blurry text. =\