61.2% Throttle to be precise.......

I'm wondering if the lower MAF signal during the higher RPM surge would indicate a dirty MAF sensor, or a faulty MAF sensor..... I may be off, so if anyone can correct me, please do so.

If you want to clean your MAF sensor, you may be successful by shooting some carb cleaner into it while the car is running. You will have to work the throttle to keep the car running, but this is a simple way to clean it. If cleaning it doesn't work, you may want to contact someone with a similar car and swap sensors. If this cures the problem, you need a new sensor. If the problem persists, you can rule out the Maf sensor, but don't forget about the wiring.... Wiggling wires is another troubleshooting method.

That is regular cruising

GP OWNERS PLEASE dont use carb cleaner to clean your MAF. It may work well once or twice but eventually its going to ruin your MAF. You must use plastic safe electric cleaner... anyways on with the story

Last night I picked up some electric cleaner from the auto parts store and came home and went to work on the maf. I pulled it out and took a look at it, didnt look that dirty but I sprayed it anyways. Sprayed it once really good then let that dry, then sprayed it again just to make sure, put the maf back in hooked everything up and started it up and immediately I could see a difference on my A/F gauge. Lately its always been running on the lean side of ideal, not the way it used to, used to run rich for the most part, I thought this may have been because of the different O2, I put a bosch in and have heard they make some cars run lean. Anyhow, fired it up and right away, I'm seeing green and blue (rich) lights on my a/f gauge. I took it for a drive and it felt 100% better than it has lately, and my a/f gauge was pegging solid blue when I floored it like it used to. I returned home and let it sit and idle for a little bit. Its running a lot better bet I still get some idle suddering and then surging but not as often and not as harsh. I was thinking maybe a sticky pcv valve, or something in the egr valve, but no one ever answered my question on how to clean that... does anyone know how, or what exactly you need to clean? So anyhow, its running much MUCH better, and I suppose if I never quite get it to idle perfect I wont get too dissapointed, after all she is getting to be a pretty old lady I'll keep you updated as I replace more stuff

Well, How about shooting some Carb Cleaner into it....

Really, Unbolt the EGR valve and underneath is a pin that should move around freely. Flush out the port with cleaner several times to remove carbon build up.

I didn't think about the Carb Cleaner being detrimental to the plastic MAF sensor. When I use it the car is running and it evaporates instantaneously.

yeah, I didnt mean to come off impolite, I have just read about a lot of people messing thier MAF up with carb cleaner and they can be pretty expensive to replace, just dont want anyone to have to go through that trouble.

Anyways... when I'm looking at the EGR "unit" from the driver side I see a black cylinder on top then underneath there is some sort of plate with one nut on it. Which piece exactly comes out?

There are 2 13mm nuts that are on studs looking straight up. Those are the nuts you want to remove to clean the EGR.

so... I bought a new pcv valve last night and replaced that... I made my way over to the EGR valve, unbolted it from the houseing that connects to the exhaust and took it off. I didnt take anything else appart, but all I could see were two holes, I didnt see any pins hanging down or anything to that effect. I just sprayed some cleaner into the holes on the portion that I took off and let it dry for a little bit. Put it back on fired it up and my SES light went off about 15 seconds into idle, still has a little stutter but its much less, only jumps around 1-200 rpm's which I guess is not that bad for the amount of miles, I'll let you guys know if the SES light comes back on

sitting in my car smoking a cigarette... ses light comes on again its not really that big of a deal I dont think, its just driving me insane not knowing what it is back to the drawing board, I think I may have the injectors cleaned, and I was also thinking about getting a case learn just incase, I never got one when I installed my pcm, just a thought, opinions anyone?

Have you inspected all of your vacuum lines?

I've seen the tee at the base of the SC snout crumble on 3 cars now. Be sure to check all other connections.

reinstall your TB screen!! that could make your car idel rough

yeah, I've gone through all the vacuum lines and also gone over them with carb cleaner a couple times and havnt ever found anything. Plus, I also highly doubt a vacuum leak because I have been keeping a really close eye on my boost gauge and its steady as ever, in fact I was hitting almost 14lbs of boost at the top of first yesterday, but see, the light also went off yesterday afternoon on my way home from work. I didnt clear the code or anything

As far as the TB screen, I took it out roughly 2 years ago almost to the day and it has never given me problems before, I find it hightly unlikely that it would all of a sudden start

Good news from all this mess, heard from one of my buddys whos step dad words for GM, I'll be getting the GMPP suspension kit with a hefty discount on it

Have you got a FP gauge you can hook up?

If you're having problems at idle, you can hook one directly to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and watch it while idling. IIRC mine runs around 48-49psi at idle.... If that number doesn't sound right, I can start it up and make sure.

I'm assuming you don't have any exhaust leaks?

I'm surprised carb cleaner was considered for a MAF sensor. It's an electronic device after all.
Also, I found that electric cleaner works good for most applications of getting rid of grime effectively.

Actually, I was thinking about that today, I do have a small exhaust leak where my downpipe bolts up to my headers, its not major but its a definate exhaust leak, I was thinking that this could possibly be the cause for the inconsistant idling, do you think this could also cause the ses light?

Sheese, You got any more salt for this wound?

I've been told that the O2 would read lean with a collector outlet leak, doesn't make sense to me since the collector should have a positive pressure on it at all times, but who am I to argue?