I remember getting a link to somebody who did M90 polishing.

I'm thinking about either picking up a polished blower case, or just another case and polishing it myself.

farnsworth does it ... i would like to polish my blower case but just to get the stuff was my biggest thing

gr8racingfool@yahoo.com
Aaron Farnsworth

Someone else does it too.
Look back at your own threads, posted info in there.

Just saw a huge thread on it over there. Polishing is bad for the heat transfer. Black actually is the best to reduce heat. Polishing looks good, but bad for heat. And you have to maintain it!

there is many links on the net for it on how to do it yourself

Actually, now that I'm tinking abotu it, does anybody have any info on Gen III to Gen V s/c conversions?

Actually there has been no proof polishing holds the heat in more. Chrome plating will. Polishing no.

Well, polishing will probably reduce surface area, because normally it's rather rough.

So I'd imagine it owuld lose a little bit of it's heat transfer ability. But I doubt it's any harmful amount.

true... the rough surface increased surface area for heat transfer. on top of that the heat of the blower will make the surface tarnish very fast.

the best way to increase the cooling ablity is to sand the paint of and have the bare metal.

Iirc Eaton said the rough finish had nothing to do with heat transfer just cheaper to manufacter.

The heat comes from the compression and very little is absorbed from the case.

Is there any way to polish it and then apply some kind of heat-resistant clear coat?

I mean, I tink I might een paint it *gulp* green after polishing it.

Green blower, green valve covers, green dogbones, mounts, and accents...

Zoops seal for finishing off polished parts,and for supplies and instructions go to Eastwood .Chico(pops)

Here's a shot of a self polished blower from a buddy of mine that moved to Boise Idaho. If you look closely you will notice details that you don't usually see from a vendors polish...... I'm waiting for another friend to send me a shot of his engine bay that I'm sure will inspire any doubters....

Whats going on with that gauge on the T-stat housing?

any rightups?? sugestions

Fuel Pressure. Not sure why, but I've seen a lot of FP gauges under the hood. Personally I have one in the cabin.

None that I know of....... I do know that a drill, and a dremel were the main tools used. A good assortment of sand paper for the manual cutting. If you have ever tried sanding wood smooth, you have an idea on how to get the aluminum shiny.

Clint, what kind of car is that? Bonnie? It sure isn't a GTP is it?

deffinately not a grand prix. washer bottle and battery bracket along with other stuff is different

FP guages under the hood for tuning/trouble shooting plus if it's mechanical you don't want a fuel line running into the cabin.

A Buick maybe? Kinda looks like my friend's Park Avenue...

I spend about $50 today on snadpaper, spray paint, rags, and other supplies for when the time comes to install the IC.

Anything that comes off is going to get sanded clean and then either polished or painted.

BTW, I painted my front valve cover black last night and it looks SICK!

I've decided I'm going to repaint everything black but with flourescent green trim and highlights. I've already got the proper paint for it.

The only thing is, I didn't buy paint stripper because I have nowhere to dispose of such dangerous chemicals.

I'll try and get a pic tonight.

That happens to be a Bonneville SLE with an L67 transplant. Did anyone notice the difference on the snout?

Here's the picture I was waiting for. Also a self polished blower/snout and TB.

Honestly I didn't notice the snout. I did notice it didn't have a stud mount in the top of the housing, so it's either a Gen V, or someone did a lot of grinding.

Sadly, I think the red wire looms kind of ruin it. Black would have been more lo-pro, but all that red plastic looks a tad tacky.

Ok, just how the heck am I supposed to get that TB clean!?

I spent about 4 hours snading off mostly dirt and ash. I tried using water and rags, even carb and choke cleaner.

I even bought a tiny little wire steel brush for my Dremel but it cleaned such a small area AND it couldn't get into all the little areas.

I ground down some of the useless little ridges and flash from manufacturing but it only helped a little.

How do you clean those hard-to-reach places, and on top of that, sand and polish them?

But the parts that did get sanded and polished a little bit (just down with 600 grit and then 000 steel wool) look REALLY nice, can't imagine what they will look like with 1600 grit!

Lotsa grinding.....


Good thing this thread isn't about plastic wire loom.....

Let's see...

Today I polished my alternator. Looks much better than my TB but both will need to be sanded down further when I have the motor apart for the IC install.

Also polished the S/C ilder arm. Looks good but you can't really see it.

Also, painted the lines in my valve cover flourescent green and clear coated to cover. Looks sick as heck!

Scuffed and repainted my dogbones black. Clear coated. Look great and will be doing the same to the dogbone mounts and strut tower bars.

I'm not going to polish the blower. Instead, I'm going to sand the blower, snout, and throttle body down to a fairly smooth surface, prime with self-etching primer until smooth, then paint with ceramic black.

The fuel rails are going to be sanded, primed, and painted with the same flourescent green paint as the valve covers.

I brought my black light over to my valve cover and it looks awesome.

I might even run some black lights into the hood to light up the green.

pictures ??

I'll get some. I just never have time because I end up working in the night in the driveway and there is so little light to be had.

I'll go snap a few now and we'll see.

I'll give you some credit for effort ,but in no way is any of those items even close to polished,you need to remove the alternator and clean complete item with a wire wheel then progressively sand with finer and finer grit use an angle die grinder ,then you need to have a bench grinder with buffing wheels and compound(red rouge & china white)and into the little grooves and crevises ues small circles of sandpaper glued to an eraser end of a pencil,to stert with polishing start with small items first and work your way up ,I do think you need to start over on your engine bay and clean well and straighten out your wiring ,I not ragging on you but you can't just rush over the engine bay and expect results.One thing that does help is replacing all bolts as you go along with stailess allen head bolts get them at Fastenal ,take it slow one step at a time and green sorry I do'nt think it belongs in an engine bay .Chico(pops)

the valve cover looks really good... i'm gonna have to agree with chico... clean up other stuff too and get stainless bolts... and get some new rubber for that intake... that looks terrible

Why is your map sensor in front of the blower?

Why do you have the spark plug wires going around the blower? and around in circles and stuff. Just run them under the snout, and under the dog bone in front.

And with the intake being a complete 90* angle, that is killing your airflow

C'mon, give him some credit for a 'brushed' look. If he likes his sparkplug wires to look like spaghetti, I say more power to him!

I haven't got the patience to polish stuff. I did polish the receiver/lever on my 96/17 rifle, but that was mostly flat spaces and a smooth surface.

It just looks cluttered to me.

I know for a fact that i dont have the patience that he does to polish stuff. Not unless im in my garage with all sorts of time and nothing to do

I know my engine bay is cluttered but there's not a whole lot I can do about it.

The MAP sensor is there just because it was convienient and actually fits real snug there too.

But because the Evap solenoid is there too, that whole area looks like crap.

Then as for plug wires, 1) my mechanic bought and installed those crappy wires, 2) I will run them differently once I know where everything needs to run, and 3) the rear wires have a LOT of slack in them, so much I felt uncomfortable leaving them loose in fear that they would hit the belts. That's why they are zip-tie'd like that.

I need to get some new wire looms (I think that's what they are called) because the ones on that harness are all faded and dirty. Just need some fresh black ones.

I know my engine bay looks awful but you have to remember, there was a fire and then some old GM tech putting it back together. It looked a little bit better before all the ash, smoke, and poor work got put into it.

All this work is just kind of pre-emptive until I get the money for the SS IC and GMPP kit.

The stuff isn't polished but it's shiny enough to get the jist of how it will look when it's finished. It's not all painted but enough to get the idea. My intake has been like that since I did that almost a year ago. Notice the lack of an airbox, as opposed to some other recent pictures? I'll be re-doing that intake once the IC goes on.

Most if the factory plastic wire loom is actually wrapped in electrical tape. When I did my engine swap, I had to cut a lot of that off to covertly rewire stuff, so when I rewrapped it with electrical tape, it looked like new!

So, if you don't mind unplugging things to be able to get your hands around it, it's an easy way to 'refresh' the factory stuff.

umm so when you polish stuff all you have to do is sand it really smooth and then just use some sealant protectant stuff?

To polish tothat chrome like finsh tou need buffing wheels and polishing compoud then a sealant or wax.Chico.

yes its a lot of work, the kinda spendy to get all of the materials but then its alot of time into buffing it all

bringing this back from the dead... where are the dogbones, crimpton?

thats not even a prix what is that ??

bonneville maybe? im not sure, but why do we have to run dogbones? it looks so much cleaner without

that looks like the bay of an olds cutlass, but im not sure, possibly a bonnie, but that wiper cowl looks older.

the snout just looks like it was one off of one of our gen 3's then they just shaved off the ribs, and left the bottom ones to prevent stress pulling down on the nose