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#107183 - 10/03/05 03:22 PM 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
1. Some definitions of some of the accronyms you may see or hear.
ABS= Anti-Locking Brake System
AWD = All Wheel Drive
CAI= Cold Air Intake
Cat= Catalytic converter
CV Joint = Constant Velocity Joint
DIC= Driver Information Center
DIY = Do It Yourself,
FWD = Front Wheel Drive
FWI = Fenderwell Intake
IAT= Inlet Air Temprature
KR= Knock Retard,
L32= S/C 3.8L replacing the L67
L36= NA 3.8L V-6 used in the 97-03 GPs and other GM models
L67= S/C 3.8L V-6 used in the GTP, Bonneville SSEI, Buick Regal GS
MAF= Mass Air Flow sensor
NA= Natural Aspiration
PCM= Powertrain Control Module,
RWD = Rear Wheel Drive
S/C= Supercharged
TC= Traction Control
TPS=Throttle Position Sensor
PCV= Positive Crankcase Ventilation


2. Q. What are the differences between the GT and the GTP?
A. The only differences between the GT and GTP are the powertrain equipment. GT uses the L36 with a 4T65E tranny and PCM written for the NA motor and weaker tranny and the GTP uses the L67 with the 4T65EHD Tranny and PCM written for the S/Cd motor.

4. Q. Can I swap my "catfish" SE front bumber cover and rear bumper cover for the GT/GTP bumper covers?
A. Yes you can. You will need to use a couple of brackets to properly secure the new pieces. The brackets are cheap and can be found at any GM dealership that sells parts or you may pull then from a junkyard.

5. Q. What Oil is the best?
A. That's a highly debated question. Synthetics are far superior to regular oil. Synthetic blends are about half synthetic half regular oil. Some people swear by Mobil 1 synthetic. I however believe in the differences between the brands is minimal and as long as you change your oil and filter on a regualar basis is sufficient.

6. Q. How often should I change my oil?
A. The standard answer is every 3,000 miles. How ever you should take a look at what type of driving you do. If your vehicle is on the highway running constant speeds for 75% of the miles you could easily stretch that out to 6,000 miles. But if you are driving in desert conditions ie. high heat and lots of dust then change it every 3,000 miles. If your vehicle spends most of it's life in stop and go city type driving, change your oil every 3,000 miles. If you take your car to the track and beat on that happy pedal alot then change it every 3,000 miles.

7. Q. A friend of mine has car X and I have car Y who will win in a race?
A. The only way to tell is to actually race. Knowing how to launch your car and when to shift is the biggest factor. In other words the driver makes or breaks the race. Alot of high performance cars require great driver skill in getting all that power to connect to the pavement. If the tires are spinning that car is going no where. Mean while your slow car is halfway through with the run.

8. Q. How fast is my car in the 1/4 mile?
A. There are lots of variables when it comes down to 1/4 mile performance. Altitude, temprature, humidity, tire pressure, vehicle wieght, driver skill, track conditions the list goes on and on. The only way to know is take the car to the track and find out. Even then you'll have multiple runs on different days and get different results. Even dedicated car magazines will have varying performance data do to the different conditions and drivers.
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#107184 - 05/13/06 07:40 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
EXHAUST MODS
Hercman's comments
"The only way to get a mean sounding exhaust will be if you do a cam swap.

The SLP loudmouth is just that it's loud. Remember you have a V6 and just adding in new exhaust will never get you that V8 sound. If you want to do a cat back exhaust your best money spent would be to go to a shop and have one made. Alot of us use Flowmaster 40 series. I have the super 40s and love them. There are a few other brands but for the most part FMs seem to be the favorite here.

For mufflers go to ebay and use performance peddler. They have bout the best prices out there. I think you can get a pair of muffs for right around $100."

Thunderbat's comments on Flowmaster Hushpower muffs
"I have to admit that I had my fears about putting this muffler on the car cuz I was afraid it would make it as quiet as the stock system...this is a chambered muffler but has a case only about 5 inches wide, or about as big as you catalytic converter only longer. Much to my pleasant surprise, when I cranked the engine the exhaust note seemed virtually the same as it did with the Cherry Bomb, a nice low rumble. Heavy throttle application still yields a robust roar but with little or no back-rapping when you back off or downshift...but most important of all, the interior drone is so low that its almost undetectable...turning on the stereo wipes it out completely. This is an expensive muffler ($124 from Jegs) but it is T409 stainless throughout and it hands down does the job. I would highly recommend this Flowmaster to anyone"

Rook on Flowmasters and the 3100
"Flowmasters don't come with tips and will run you $60+ each. From those that have played with them on a 3100, I hear they sound slightly deeper than the 3800s."

GTP4LIFE's comments on the SLP Loudmouth
"i have the original SLP Loudmouth and it is horbal, i mean it is really throaty i have had a few people ask if its a v8. but i can turn the radio up all the way and still hear it clear as day. theres no way to talk on the phone and drive"

vmschumacher's comments on the hushpower 2
"I have the flowmaster hushpower 2 muffler w/2.5 pipe and resonating silverline tips. Best sound I have EVER heard in a mildly modded GTP, EVER!!!!
My friends thought I had a v8 with the rumble."

1BAD97's comments
"A 3" downpipe without a cat will make your exhaust sound very nice with the stock mufflers/resonator. That can be had for less than $300 and is a bolt-on deal. I have stock cat-back (resonator in place) with 3" catless DP and PEM's, sounds pretty damn good to me (of course the XP cam plays a small part in that, lol) Not unreasonably loud, but mean enough to scare ricers, and it's very obvious the car is cammed. Just offering an alternative to throwing poopy sounding mufflers (which is ANY aftermarket muffler really) on a GP. The 3800 is just not a good sounding engine (as in, will never sound like a stang GT), nothing can fix that so don't go broke trying."

Quote:
Originally posted by lonezergling:

I run Pacesetter headers with a 3" cat'd downpipe into a custom resonator-less 2.5" stainless SE-style cat-back with one Flowmaster Super 40 and a big bore resonating tip.

My car is very loud. Not 454 Chevy with Zoomies loud, but WAY louder than stock.

I have terrible exhaust leaks from the headers but witht he XP cam, you can hear EVERY LOPE of the cam.

Without the resonator, there will be lots of in-car noise. Maybe not the brain rattling drone like many say but you WILL hear your exhausr plain as day inside the car.

Here's what I'm going to say you do.

If you want a good sound but DON'T want ti loud, I'd say get the usual 3" cat'd downpipe w/ u-bend delete from ZZP and maybe a P-log.

That will open up your exhaust a little bit, make it a little deeper but nothing much. That stuff is good for at least 10hp AND it gives your exhaust a better note. The cat-back won't give you anything and costs 2x as much.


From then on, if you want a better TONE out of the car, your best bet is to have an exhaust shop weld in 2 aftermarket mufflers in place of the stock ones. Flowmaster Super 40s and Magnaflows are the top ones around here. Grab a set of resonating tips in the style you want and you will have a nice deep exhaust.
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#107185 - 08/23/06 08:30 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
AustinGTP Offline
Member
Registered: 05/23/03
Posts: 8077
Loc: Austin, TX
Supporting mods for a 3.4" pulley:

CAI/FWI
U-bend delete
3" D/P
PCM
180* T-stat (drilled prefered)
1 heat range cooler plugs (copper core prefered)
A scanner is highly recommended in order to monitor the KR that will be introduced with the smaller pulley.

---------------------

RPM's at speed
Stock oem wheels and tire size.
_________________________
Bobby

Died 5/1/08, resurrected 5/15/08
ASCD SD hood, 17" Bullitts, Overkill PCM, 3.4" Pulley, NGK TR55IX, K&N 9" cone filter, JimmyC D/P, U-bend removed, Flowmaster 40 series, Hooker big bore tips with resonators, S/B brake lines, drilled/slot rotors, GMPP handling kit, KYB struts, F&R strut supports, HID's, LED's, 2.5" Air Dam, red GTP overlays on custom badges, white rear insert.
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#107186 - 09/06/06 06:22 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
AustinGTP Offline
Member
Registered: 05/23/03
Posts: 8077
Loc: Austin, TX
The facts on a GT build:
(Posted by Chico)

I get a lot of PM's regarding building a GT so I thought I'd post here my opinions,first off as most know the common weak link in GT's & GTP's is the trans. and do'nt be fooled that the HD version is a whole lot better,now on with what I've found the 3.8 n/a can be built to run mid 13's with the following formula 1-cam either zzp gt1 or gt2 with a 3200stall convertor or Intense s/1 n/a cam ,it would also take a bump in compression to 10.5-1 by milling the heads 30k also a mild port job will help,as far as intake I would suggest a 3" FWI Iknow a lot will say 4" but remember on a n/a you will need air velocity not volume,now come to exhaust you will need a minimum of PEM's and 3" dp and hi-flow cat or race pipe if you can,another product that has potential is the zzp powerlog& rearported mnfld of course you may want to go to headers and I'm not saying not to it's just they are to expensive for the gain,of course you will need tuned pcm and most companies will tune for your mods,now a lot of guys just want to hang with stock GTP's at high 14's so aside from the head work and the cam (go with rocker's) you need the same mods ,I would suggest before modding that all your maintenace issues are resolved and your trans. is serviced and in good working order.
_________________________
Bobby

Died 5/1/08, resurrected 5/15/08
ASCD SD hood, 17" Bullitts, Overkill PCM, 3.4" Pulley, NGK TR55IX, K&N 9" cone filter, JimmyC D/P, U-bend removed, Flowmaster 40 series, Hooker big bore tips with resonators, S/B brake lines, drilled/slot rotors, GMPP handling kit, KYB struts, F&R strut supports, HID's, LED's, 2.5" Air Dam, red GTP overlays on custom badges, white rear insert.
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#107187 - 02/27/07 10:27 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
CATALYTIC CONVERTERS

Cats or no cats that is the question.

Federal Law stipulates that any and all emissions controls that came on a vehicle must stay on a vehicle. Just because a certain jurisditction doesn't do emissions testing doesn't make it ok to remove the cat. Say your in a little podunk town and the local LEO is having a bad day and sees a car with super dark tint, loud exhaust and a burned out tailight and decides he's gonna harrass em. Car gets pulled over driver gives some attitude and next thing you know Mr. LEO is looking over the car with a fine tooth comb and what does he find? No cat on a car that's supposed to have a cat. That right there is a federal offence and is a big time fine.

Ok legalities aside

On a DD removing the cat doesn't gain enough hp to really feel a difference. On the track where every 100th of a second does it will. With the availability of aftermarket high flow cats compared to the cost of an OEM replacement if your cat is clogged and need a new one get the aftermarket. If your cat is fine the Ubend delete will be your biggest gain from the cat back. But if your gonna go that far many vendors now offer 3" Downpipes with cats already welded in for cheap.

If you have to ask catless or catted chances are you really don't need to run catless.

Only time I'll condone catless is one car is only running on the track and two your cat is clogged and your wallet won't allow a replacement on your only vehicle at this time. But in this case only as long as it takes to get the replacement not as a permanent fix.

As much as people hate cats they really do some good. The 70s gave cats a bad name but they have come a long ways since then.
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#107188 - 03/31/07 01:41 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
Top End Swap ie Mounting an M90 to a GT

the list of required parts. Alot of the parts can be had from Ed Morad at GTPED@msn.com or your local junkyard or all new from various vendors. Location and vendors the price will vary. Figuere about $1500 for the swap.

Taken from the last page-

This is a list of everything you will need
M90
L67 idler pulleys,
L67 idler stand off,
L67 throttle body,
L67 injectors,
custom PCM,
GTP balancer,
L67 MAP sensor,
L67 heads,
L67 fuel rail,
2 head gaskets,
head studs (or head bolts)
MAP adaptor harness,
bypass valve wiring,
vacuum lines,
brake booster line,
supercharger gasket,
throttle body gasket,
lower intake gasket,
lower intake Orings,
supercharger belt,
GTP valve covers,
GTP valve cover gaskets,
coil pack bracket for 99+ cars,
lower intake from an L67,
M90 bolts,
and new rocker bolts.

gas requirements are 93 octane? whatever the premium in your area is rated at

More info can be found here .
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#107189 - 04/08/07 06:43 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
AustinGTP Offline
Member
Registered: 05/23/03
Posts: 8077
Loc: Austin, TX
_________________________
Bobby

Died 5/1/08, resurrected 5/15/08
ASCD SD hood, 17" Bullitts, Overkill PCM, 3.4" Pulley, NGK TR55IX, K&N 9" cone filter, JimmyC D/P, U-bend removed, Flowmaster 40 series, Hooker big bore tips with resonators, S/B brake lines, drilled/slot rotors, GMPP handling kit, KYB struts, F&R strut supports, HID's, LED's, 2.5" Air Dam, red GTP overlays on custom badges, white rear insert.
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#107190 - 04/10/07 04:29 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
L67 - Series II Supercharged 3800
L26 - Series III Supercharged 3800

Gen 3 - Refers to M90 generation used on Series II motors. Slight design changes from older gens such as the ones on the 3.8 Tbird Supercoupes.

Gen 5 - Refers to M90 on Series III motors. The supercharger has a larger opening in the base, smaller silencer slits, and a different rotor coating. It's more efficient than the Gen 3 at making boost without heat, which is why so many people try to get one. They also don't generally need porting whereas Gen 3s do.

LG8 - 3100 motor.
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#107191 - 04/26/07 05:44 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
wheel lug spacing and offset

any wheel with 5x114.3 or 5x115 bolt pattern and 38-45 mm offset should work just fine for the 97-03 GPs.
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#107192 - 07/15/07 09:31 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
AustinGTP Offline
Member
Registered: 05/23/03
Posts: 8077
Loc: Austin, TX
Unlocking a factory deck:

1-800-537-5140

LISTEN TO OPTIONS

dealer code is - 02107#
OR
Call 1-800-537-5140 206010#

U'LL NEED THIS FROM THE RADIO

Press and hold 2 and 3 -----write down #
.
press AM/FM button.....write down the next three. Done and done!!

--------------------------------------------------

Make your own CAI:



Make your own TB Heatshield




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Climate Control Diagnostic:
You must have a CJ2 unit (pictured below) to view this information. To enter diagnostics mode:
Press and hold both the Driver and Passenger knobs in simultaneously until the display changes to read "-00". To change position, turn the Driver knob to the desired number and turn the Passenger knob one click to view the data for that position.

Position Description US Observed on mine Canada
-00 Error codes (List of Trouble Codes Below!)
-01 (servo position) 103-107 43-162
-02 (servo position) 128 120-202
-03 (servo position) 150 162-194
-04 CJ2 Fan Speed Low=15, 29, 44, 58, 71, 86, 110=High, CJ2 Unit will adjust to other increments as needed
-05 (servo position) 93 88-191
-06 (servo position) -152 00-252
-07 (servo position) 00 0, 34-255
-08 (servo position) -155 00-255
-09 (servo position) 00 0, 23-255
-10 ? 04 04
-11 CJ2 Vent Mode 1=Def, 2=Bilevel, 3=Auto, 4=Lower, 5=Def+Lower
-12 Engine Coolant Temp -60 degrees 80=104, 95=131, 100=140 Peak@135°F
-13 Actual Vehicle Speed in MPH
-14 (servo position) 00 21=0
-15 ? 39 44
-16 Radiator low fan turn on temp -106 207
-17 Radiator low fan turn off temp 196 199
-18 ? 50 51
-19 (servo position) 162-169 40-172
-20 Affected by cabin temp sensor 89 50-172
-21 (servo position) 00 ?
-22 Sunload Sensor -117 LIGHT=126, 218=DARK
To return to normal operation, press the MODE button next to the Passenger temperature knob.

This is a list of the Trouble Codes displayed by the CJ2 Unit.
A two digit code indicates a current fault while a three digit code indicates a historic fault.
Trouble Code Description
00 No System Fault
01 or 101 Inside Air Temperature Sensor Short
02 or 102 Inside Air Temperature Sensor Open
03 or 103 Ambient Outside Temperature Sensor Short
04 or 104 Ambient Outside Temperature Sensor Open
05 or 105 LH Electric Actuator Open or Short
06 or 106 RH Electric Actuator Open or Short
07 or 107 UART Serial Data Line Fault
08 or 108 Solar Sensor Open
To clear codes from the CJ2 Unit, press the A/C Mode button.



--------------------------------------------------

HOW TO PROGRAM A FACTORY REMOTE:
IMPORTANT: Before entering programming mode, have in possession all of the transmitters you will be using on the vehicle. Once you program the transmitter, all previous codes will be erased from the memory. The other transmitters will not be functional until you program the transmitters again.

1. Remove the key from the ignition.
2. Close all of the doors.
3. Remove the “ MALL PGM” fuse from the fuse panel. Use the legend on the fuse panel or owner’s manual to properly locate the “ MALL PGM” fuse.
4. Insert the keys into the ignition, and turn to the ACC position.
5. Turn the key to OFF and then back to ACC within 1 second.
6. Open and close any vehicle door. A chime will be heard when the system enters the programming mode.
7. Press and hold the transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for 14 seconds. IMPORTANT: After 7 seconds, a chime may be heard confirming successful synchronization. It is necessary to wait approximately 14 seconds for a second chime that will confirm successful programming.
8. Repeat the previous step on each additional transmitter to be programmed (including any existing remotes).
9. Remove the key from the ignition.
10. Install the “MALL PGM” fuse.

(just so everyone knows if you use a remote that was already used on another vehicle it will lock and unlock and pop the trunk on both vehicles)

REMOTE PROGRAMING FOR ANY CAR
www.programyourremote.com/

--------------------------------------------------


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_________________________
Bobby

Died 5/1/08, resurrected 5/15/08
ASCD SD hood, 17" Bullitts, Overkill PCM, 3.4" Pulley, NGK TR55IX, K&N 9" cone filter, JimmyC D/P, U-bend removed, Flowmaster 40 series, Hooker big bore tips with resonators, S/B brake lines, drilled/slot rotors, GMPP handling kit, KYB struts, F&R strut supports, HID's, LED's, 2.5" Air Dam, red GTP overlays on custom badges, white rear insert.
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#107193 - 10/18/07 07:21 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
SS M90

Quote:
Originally posted by D:
Ok well I'm bored and maybe Herc or Bobby can put this in the FAQ section, so its there for people to see.

SS M90 Build:
First off you need the ZZP Install Kit . Now with this if you have a 99 or newer car you will need the Alternator bracket, so you will have to pick that in the drop down menu. Now unless you have a Powrtuner or HP Tuner then you need to have ZZP do you programming. As far as the Option 3 if you want to start out with the 4.0" pulley then you will have to upgrade your injectors to GTP 36# injectors. If you have a 01 or newer GP then you will need the injector harnesses which you can also get from ZZP.

Now along with the ZZP install kit you will need 4 other things.

1. You will need a Machined Intake , the reason for this is b/c the injectors are at a different angle so ZZP custom makes there LIM to work with the injector angle of the L36. In this window you would need to select SS M90 for L36 converstion. Add the core charge and I also suggest you get the LIM gasket so you don't have to go searching for it later.

2. You will need the ZZP Billet Fuel Logs . The reason for these is b/c your old rails will not fit with the blower on the top of the engine. You can try and modify L67 fuel rails, but its a PITA, and unsafe is you dont do it right. So it may be expensive but easyer to by the rails. Just pick SS M90 in the drop down menu.

3. You will need a Ported M90 Supercharger , you need this blower b/c it is also custimized to fit on top of the LIM and adds cleance for the injectors. First pick your year then the core charge then pick SS M90, you dont need the Oil b/c it comes with the SS install kit.

4. You will need a ZZP Modular Pulley System , now if you are upgradeing the injectors then get the 4.0" if not then get the 4.2".

Now that is about it, but as a side note you will need Synthetic Oil after you are done and you have to do and oil change along with add some coolant.

Now for my option, I think you should add a few more things to the cost of the project either a Powrtuenr or HP tuner b/c you will need to scan and adjust fuel and timing to get the most power out of your set up or you can invest in someone to tune your car like a tuner shop, so you can also get the most out of the kit. Also I would spend the extra money and upgrade injectors and get the 4.0 pulley becuase you will regreat it after you are done and you only have the 4.2 pulley on, and for alittle more money you get alot more power.

With the Kit you should look to spend close to about $1500, if you can get the cores cheaper then you then it will safe you some moeny, If you add the upgraded injectors and a PT or HP tuner then you should look to spend close to $2100. But its all in what you want. This is basically just a guide for you guys I may have missed something that is why I would suggest before you order call ZZP or email ZZP and see what they have to say, but other then that this should be it.

Ray
Quote:
Originally posted by Chico:
I would add that 1.9 rockers and a plog and rear pem + a 3.8 pulley would be on my list of minimums.Chico(pops)
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#107194 - 10/19/07 07:44 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
Spark Plugs 101

Why autolite for GPers.
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#107195 - 11/08/07 10:17 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
How to contact Ed
Thanks for stepping in and providing my info. We are all moved in and functioning. Amazing what we accomplished in the last place, cant wait to see how we flourish in the new space 15 times larger overall.

lots of ways to get ahole of us.


email sales@MoradPartsCompany.com

address:

Morad Parts Company
3455 W. 140th (service road)
Cleveland, Ohio 44111
p-216-671-3736
f-216-671-8406

M-F 9AM-6:30PM

website:
www.MoradPartsCompany.com


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11.084@125.01 97GTP 10.711@125.71 BADSSEI
04.5'Dodge diesel/05'GTP/07'Vette
GTPED@msn.com parts requests
EBAY
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#107196 - 11/19/07 07:38 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
FUEL PRESSURE

Quote:
Originally posted by Blackarrow98gp:
Fuel pressure should be 48-55 psi at the fuel rail, with the key on and the pump running.
Quote:
Originally posted by Blackarrow98gp:
Yep, fuel pressure spec is from the '98 GM Service Manuals, and applies to S/C 3800 fuel systems. Fuel pressure spec for NA 3800 is 41-47 psi. If the fuel system drops more than 5 psi in 10 minutes, check for leaks in one or more of the following areas: Fuel pump check valve, flex pipe (part of pump assembly), valve or valve seat in the fuel pressure regulator, fuel injector(s). Inspect the fuel lines for leaks or obstructions as well.
When checking fuel pressure, bear in mind that the pump only runs for about 2 seconds with the key on. It may be necessary to cycle the ignition off for 10 seconds, then back on to get an accurate reading at the gauge.

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#107197 - 12/27/07 04:02 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
AustinGTP Offline
Member
Registered: 05/23/03
Posts: 8077
Loc: Austin, TX
Headlight restoration:

Quote:
Originally posted by spillway47:
As promised, here is the write up and the before and after pictures of my passenger's side headlight, using the Permatex Headlight Restoration Kit to try to undo the crazing at the top of the lens.

Some preliminary info: First, since it was still cold and threatening rain, I just removed the headlight and brought it inside. Second, I followed the manufacturer's directions to the letter.

Permatex gives you four 1/8 sheets of wet/dry sandpaper going from 1000, to 1500, to 2000, and a very fine 2500 to end up with. The container it all comes in serves as a water container where you soak each sheet for 10 minutes before use.

You also get 2 exam gloves, a small piece of soft cloth, and a small bottle of polishing liquid to complete the job.

Since I was dealing primarily with crazing, and no real cracks to speak of, per the instructions I didn't begin with the 1000 grit, I started with the 1500. They recommend you go back and forth with one grit, then up and down with the next one, and so on, which I did. This worked out well since I was going back and forth (side to side) first and last, and only up and down once. It's much easier to go side to side than it is up and down with you've got the headlight out of the car.

They recommend you change the water you're using between each grit, too, which seemed like a good idea to me. As I said, I followed their instructions entirely.

After the sanding was complete, the headlight looked cloudy on the outside, but felt smooth to the touch.

Next comes the polishing, for which they give you about 1 oz. of polishing liquid and a small soft cloth. This will work up a sweat. You really have to get after it, with lots of elbow grease, to get all the ultra-fine sandpaper scratches out of the plastic. I used up almost the entire 1 oz. bottle before I finally got the lens clear and shiny.

Last but not least, I rinsed the lens off with warm running water, and buffed it to a high shine with a microfiber towel.

My conclusions are after the before and after pics.



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My conclusions:

The results (to me) were impressive. My biggest concern was that I wasn't getting enough light through the lens to properly light up the road on my way home every night at midnight, and last night I noticed a huge difference, especially with the brights on.

So all in all, the product worked as advertised, the instructions were clear and easy to understand, and the materials enclosed were top quality.

Having said that, it seems to me that $15.99 is an awful lot of money to spend on four 1/8 sheets of sandpaper, some polishing liquid, and a soft cloth. They also enclose 2 rubber exam gloves, which may be why it's so expensive.

If I had to do it over I'd just buy some similar grit wet/dry sandpaper and use some Turtle Wax polishing compound. There is a link floating around with just those very instructions, and I could've saved maybe $6-$7 by going that route. But if you don't have the time to hunt down the materials, this Permatex kit should do the job.

James.
_________________________
Bobby

Died 5/1/08, resurrected 5/15/08
ASCD SD hood, 17" Bullitts, Overkill PCM, 3.4" Pulley, NGK TR55IX, K&N 9" cone filter, JimmyC D/P, U-bend removed, Flowmaster 40 series, Hooker big bore tips with resonators, S/B brake lines, drilled/slot rotors, GMPP handling kit, KYB struts, F&R strut supports, HID's, LED's, 2.5" Air Dam, red GTP overlays on custom badges, white rear insert.
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