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#107198 - 02/13/08 06:45 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
AustinGTP Offline
Member
Registered: 05/23/03
Posts: 8077
Loc: Austin, TX
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Bobby

Died 5/1/08, resurrected 5/15/08
ASCD SD hood, 17" Bullitts, Overkill PCM, 3.4" Pulley, NGK TR55IX, K&N 9" cone filter, JimmyC D/P, U-bend removed, Flowmaster 40 series, Hooker big bore tips with resonators, S/B brake lines, drilled/slot rotors, GMPP handling kit, KYB struts, F&R strut supports, HID's, LED's, 2.5" Air Dam, red GTP overlays on custom badges, white rear insert.
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#107199 - 03/15/08 04:54 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
How to remove steering column cover

Quote:
Originally posted by D Richard:
Found this and it works on how it is removed.
Looks like it is the switch, I took it all apart and the brake lights work and signal but not the 4 ways. The switch will not stay down, so I need to replace it. I will go to the dealer next week.
Thanks for all the help
Dave
Step 1:
First you'll need to remove the bottom steering column cover. Use the appropriate sized male torx bit on the middle back screw and also remove the 2 other screws on each side. The cover has plastic loops where it attaches to the dash so you must move it towards the dash and then down to release it.

Step 2:
Now its time to remove the top steering column cover. First you'll need to remove the tilt steering lever though. Using a flashlight, look into where the lever attaches to the steering column. You will see a metal tab that you can push on to release the tilt lever and pull it out. Now you can take off the top steering column cover. Looking up from underneath you will see 2 male torx screws holding it on. One on each side of the steering wheel. You can use either needle nose pliers to remove these if you don't have female torx screw bits. Once these are removed, use a pair of tin snips to cut the plastic just below the key lock or you won't be able to get the cover up and around the key lock. Now carefully spread that part of the cover up and around the key lock while pushing back towards the dash with the cover. It should release and come off.
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#107200 - 04/07/08 07:36 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
Rear facia Pontiac taillight

http://www.mkiii.org/gp/wiringpontiac.html
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#107201 - 04/10/08 05:45 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
DIY foglight covers

DIY Driving Light Covers
By AustinGTP from Grandprix.net
You'll need the following:
1) 12"x12" gray tinted plexiglass (this will allow for extra just incase. Should be enought for 2 complete sets.)
2) Plastic Weld brand adhesive
3) 13oz plastic Folgers coffee can
4) Dremel tool (or some other similar device)
5) 6 misc cans
6) Marker

Step 1:
Start with the 13oz coffee can, marker, plexiglass, and Dremel.
Trace the coffee can on the plexiglas, holding the marker straight up. Do both sides.
Using the small cutting wheel for the Dremel, start cutting around the trace marks. Get as close as you can to the line, but do not touch it. Once you get both side cut out, mark the fingers on what's left of the sheet. You'll neeed six at 3 3/4"x1".
Now you'll need the following - Dremel with the drum sander, fingers, lens. Smooth out the edges of all the fingers, both sides (this step is optional. I prefer to not have any edges on mine).
Carefully, lightly, and slowly go around the edges of the lens with the drum sander. Sand it all the way to the line on both lens'.

Step 2:
You'll need the Plastic Weld, 6 fingers, 2 lens', and 6 misc cans.
Peel the paper off of one side of the lens' and orient the six cans around the lens, where you want the fingers to be.
Mix the Plastic Weld as per directions. Using a toothpick place a small amount of Plastic Weld on the end of the fingers and place them right on the edge of the lens. use the misc cans to prop up the fingers. Get all six finger set on both lens and let it set. Make sure that the fingers are leaning out just a hair. After setting for about 30minutes or so, check the finger. Touch the very end of the finger and see if you can wiggle it any, or if there is any resistance. If your getting resistance it should be set enough for a second application of Plastic eld. mix up some more and using a tooth pick put Plastic Weld on the out side and inside of the base of all the finger, so it will ensure a good, secure adhesion.
After the second application let them set over night. Do not get in a hurry and put them on your car just yet. If you do, the fingers will no longer have that slight outward lean, and the lean is important for a secure fit.
The next day, peel the paper off and place them in the fog light buckets. One of the fingers must be in the top position. Give them a frim push when sliding them in the bucket. The fingers should be secure enough to not break off. I tried to break a set off a cracked lens and the finger broke before the Plastic Weld. This is some strong stuff.
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#107202 - 05/24/08 09:36 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
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#107203 - 08/26/08 04:03 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
Most people have a problem with installing a TB spacer and the coolant blowing out the gasket on the side of the supercharger. Here is a mod that we've done to a few cars in the last couple of years with no ill effects. Yes you can plug the passages at the LIM, but this is for those that are simply installing a TB spacer. If anyone has any pictures that I can use to add to the write up it would be appreciated. I only have a pic of the finished project.

Preface:
Make sure the engine is cool before starting this project.

Items needed:
Other than the items provided with a spacer.
2 - 1/8" NPT flush mount plugs(hard to find, check Ace or True Value Hardware)
Thread sealant
TB gasket(unless installing a spacer you should have received 2 gaskets)

Tools:
10mm deep well socket
Hex key(allen wrench) that fits brass plugs.
RTV sealant(recommended)if you want to back up the gasket.
Cutting oil for the tap. Since it's aluminum and you're using a hand tool you can probably get away with motor oil.

1. Remove the TB by disconnecting all the electrical connections and the throttle linkage. the throttle linkage is just a couple of quick connectors and figuring out how they work can be a challenge. Next there are 3 mounting nuts that need to come off 10mm I believe. Be prepared to lose about a cup of coolant. Viola, the removal is done.

2. If you are installing a TB spacer follow the instruction on removing the OEM studs from the SC. If you are not installing a spacer go to step 3.

3. There are 2 ports on the supercharger at the bottom of the mating surface between the SC an TB. They are the perfect size to accept a 1/8" NPT tap without drilling. Run the tap about 1/2 way into both of those ports.

4. Scrape all the old gasket off of the mating surface and use a shop vac to suck up the aluminum shavings and gasket material. Make sure you suck out the coolant ports nice and clean.

5. Put some thread sealant on the 1/8" flush mount brass plugs and install into the newly tapped holes with the appropriately sized hex key wrench.


6. If you are installing a TB Spacer continue on with their instructions. If you aren't installing a spacer, clean the TB of old gasket material, install new gasket and reinstall TB. 89lbs/in is the spec. for the 3 nuts. Make all electrical connections and don't forget the throttle linkage.

7. Inspect all connections and start the car. Ispect for leaks and top off your coolant.
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#107204 - 11/22/08 05:15 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
disable headlight flash for use with HIDs/Projectors

If your car has a BCM Type 4 (Look for RPO code UA6 on the Service Parts Identification decal under the trunk lid) here's how to do it:


How to program:
1 Turn off the IP dimmer switch
2 Turn ignition switch to OFF position
3 Remove MALL PGM fuse
4 Turn ignition switch to ACC position
The BCM sounds the chime a number of times equal to the BCM installed in vehicle (1-4 times) Make sure BCM is Type 3 or 4.
Now the BCM has entered the feature customization mode.

5 To change the remote unlock control mode, press and release the unlock button on the transmitter.
The BCM will sound the chime equal to the remote unlock control mode. A transition past Mode 2 repeats the sequence starting with Mode 1.

Remote Unlock Control Modes
Mode 1 (disabled) All doors unlock when pressing unlock on transmitter
Mode 2 Driver's door unlocks when pressing unlock once on transmitter, press unlock again within five seconds unlocks all doors

6 To change remote activation verification mode, press and release the lock button on transmitter. The BCM will sound the chime equal to the remote activation verification mode it is in. A transition past Mode 4 repeats sequence with Mode 1.

Remote Activation Verification Modes
Mode 1 Feature disabled
Mode 2 Headlamps flash when pressing unlock or lock on transmitter.
Mode 3 Headlamps flash when pressing unlock on the transmitter. Headlamps flash and horn sounds when pressing lock on the transmitter.
Mode 4 Headlamps flash when pressing unlock on transmitter. Headlamps flash when pressing lock once on transmitter; within five seconds, headlamps flash and horn sounds when pressing lock again on transmitter.

To exit and save: Turn ignition switch to OFF, Reinstall MALL PGM fuse
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#107205 - 12/18/08 06:57 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
INSTALLING HIDS

Quote:
Originally posted by r.s.hutchinson:
[b]Installing HID's - Single Beam and Bi Xenon

What the kit comes with:

Single Beam 9007's

2 ballasts + mounting material
2 bulbs
All required wiring harnesses


Bi Xenon 9007's

2 ballasts + mounting material
2 telescoping bulbs
All required wiring harnesses + relay


Before you start:

It is highly recommended that you disable your DRL's and your security flash before installing your HID's. It is not good to flash HID's as it strains your ballasts and can cause them to fail prematurely and will also diminish the life of your bulbs. Also, DRL's will not provide the HID's with sufficient energy and the HID bulbs will constantly flicker. This is obviously not good for the bulbs and can become highly annoying. Lastly, do not turn on HID's without the car running.

Disabling Security headlight flash

1) Pull the "MALL PGM" fuse in the glove box
2) Turn your key to accessory
3) Hit the lock button on your key-fob until there is only 1 chime.
4) Put the key back to off
5) Plug the fuse in.

Disabling DRL's in 97-98 Models

You need to pull the DRL fuse behind the glovebox. Fuse number (coming soon)

Disabling DRL's in 99-03 Models

coming soon.


What you need to do:


Mounting the ballasts:

Their are many different ways and locations where you can mount the ballasts. I recommend screwing them to your bumper for multiple reasons. Also, you don't need to remove the bumper cover to do this. You can remove the black shroud in between the bumper cover and rad support, this should give you more than enough room to get a drill in there. Start off by removing the headlights and shroud so you have some room to move your hands around. Then position the ballasts however you like but because the wires are only so long, the closer to the headlight the better. Use some self tapping screws and mount the ballast bracket to the bumper. Now take the ballast and slide it into the bracket. Make sure it is snug in the bracket, you don't want this to slide out when turning. This will have to be repeated for the other ballast on the other side.
Another alternative is to use two sided tape to mount the ballasts, this is less time consuming but also less secure.


Wiring:

Single Beam Bulbs

Check your headlight sockets that came with the kit. All too often it will be wired incorrectly, most likely for a 9004 bulb. The socket for a single beam 9007, if wired correctly, should go 'empty, ground, low beam' and should look like this:



If it does not look like this, then you must remove the pins from the socket using a metal pick and re wire accordingly.

The other end of this wiring harness connects directly into your ballast.


Bi Xenon Bulbs

The included wiring harness probobly only has 1 headlight socket. It does not matter whether it connects to the driver or passenger side. The headlight socket here should look very similar to the single beam sockets like pictured above, except it will have a pin in the hi beam spot as well as the ground and low beam pins. This harness will also have 1 power and 2 ground wires; one for each side. These 3 wires will come with crimped on eyelets. The power eyelet I bolted directly to the top of the fuse box under the hood. As for ground, make sure you grind away ALL PAINT, you must have bare metal to get a good ground. You can bolt it to your bumper or to the rad support behind the headlight, whichever you find easiest. After you have grounded them, throw some paint over it and all bare metal so that it does not rust. Also on this harness will be 2 hi-lo trigger wires, 1 for passenger and 1 for driver side lights. These connect directly to the trigger wire on the bulb end. The last 2 plug ends connect directly into the ballasts themselves.


Bulbs: *DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB GLASS!!*
Oils from your finger will diminish it's life. Only handle it by the plastic base.

Single Beam Bulbs

This is very straight forward. The bulb goes into the headlight capsule just like stock and has two plug connections on the end. These two ends connect directly into the corresponding plug ends coming out of the ballast.

Bi Xenon Bulbs

Again, the bulb goes in just like stock however these bulbs will have a hi-lo trigger wire in addition to the 2 plug ends. The 2 plug ends connect to the plug ends on the ballast. The hi-lo trigger end connects to the hi-lo trigger wire on the wiring harness.


That's it - Everything should be connected and working. Keep the bulbs on for atleast 10 minutes for the initial start up.

I will add pictures and diagrams as I take/draw them so that you can also see how everything is connected.

Thanks to 01GTShaner for the pics. [/b]
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#107206 - 01/06/09 08:08 AM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
HUD INSTALL for those without the HUD option

this is not my work, but is what I used to do the connector splicing. When I first printed the cheat sheet off, it printed it missing the connector wire location (ex. A7), the connectors all have small markings on them, as well as a corresponding letter, and if necessary connector color.

the image is too large to post it in the reply.

http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/3289/dicfeb2007yn1.jpg

and this is a compilation of photo's I used for the install, again not my work.

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/8365/hudimagell4.jpg

Drivers Information Center Swap, from non-digital to digital. (not my work)

http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/4954/dicfeb2007pj5.jpg

Here are a few of the connector views, courteous of me. ( For a larger view, save to your computer and open in a Paint program, or image viewer.

HUD Switch:


HUD module:


Trip Calculator (DIC)(1 of 2)


Trip Calculator (DIC) (2 of 2)


Drivers info Center (NON-Digital)


Instrument Cluster Connector (C1)


Instrument Cluster Connector (C2)


hope this helps you guys planning either or both swaps (I did both swaps, both requiring complete splicing each time).

--------------------


1999 GT Mods so far: Ignition switch relay (switch saver). Fuel pump rewire. Alternator mod (wire from alt to positive battery connection by battery) De-badged. Spoiler Fix (rubber washers in between spoiler and trunk lid). F-body brakes, Ipod aux input. 17" silver bullits. GMPP suspension kit. 3" DP, Digital DIC swap. HUD installed. To be continued...
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#107207 - 01/12/09 08:24 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
Quote:
Originally posted by 20gtp02:


667= 67.250"
660= 66.750"
653= 65.875"
650= 65.500"

667 size for stock.

No IC
Grand Prix
3.8 (Stock): 667
3.2-3.6: 660
2.85-3.1: 650
2.7-2.85: 642

Bonneville
Stock: 721
3.4: 716


With ZZP Stage 2 IC (2.25” tall Core)
6 Rib
3.3-3.8: 685
2.7-3.2: 680 (Note that the NAPA 680 may be too long for 2.8" and smaller. Try a NAPA 672)
2.5-2.6: 672

8 Rib NOTE: For these belts the part numbers are 080 rather than 060...or K8 with the Duralast rather than K6.
3.0-3.2: 685
2.6-2.9: 680

Gen 5 Blower
2.9-3.1: 685
2.7-3.0: 680
2.4-2.6: 675


With ZZP Stage 3 IC (2.375" Core)
6 Rib:
3.1-3.8: 685
2.6-3.0: 680

Gen 5 Blower
3.0-3.8: 685
2.6-2.9: 680
2.3-2.55: 675


With ZZP SSIC (1” tall Core)
3.2-3.8: 670
3.9-3.1: 667 (Stock belt)
2.8: 660


With MAP IC (2.0” tall Core)
3.1-3.4: 680
2.8-3.0: 672


ZZP SS M90 Conversion
970 - SS M90 for 97/98
950 - 3.8-4.2 SS M90 for 99+
947 - 3.5-4.0 SS M90 for 99+

Other Belts

060915 - Stock accessory belt for 99+
-also works with either UD WP pulley or OD alt pulley but not both.

060923 - Accessory belt for 99+ with UD WP pulley and alt UD pulley.

4060935 - Stock accessory belt for 97/98 (94").

4060938 - Accessory belt for 97/98 with underdrive pulleys.
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#107208 - 02/11/09 02:36 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
Online repair manuals for various vehicles


Quote:
Originally posted by Drakhan:
I thought this would be useful to someone...

At this page

Enter the generic library card number:
[b]123456789


Select:
Public library of Cincinatti and Hamilton counties

Sroll down and select:
Auto repair and reference center [/b]
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#107209 - 05/19/09 12:21 PM Re: 97-03 FAQ, Perf mods, common fixes read first
HercMan(Rob) Offline
Member
Registered: 09/12/03
Posts: 14035
Loc: Fort Worth, Texas
Key stuck?

Quote:
Originally posted by SlickGTP:
For all those that are having problems removing the key after parking the car.


Ignition Shift Lock Diagnostic and Repair:

Required Tools/Supplies:

3/8" Ratchet
12" and 6" extensions for the ratchet.
10mm or 13mm Sockets(can't remember what size is needed)
Small and medium sized flat bladed screwdrivers
Emery boards or fine sand paper
Some Elbow grease
Dielectric grease
2 - Bolts with nuts
1 - Bolt with nut
Wrenches that fit the above bolts
Dremel or similar device with a grinding/cutoff wheel
Lotsa Patience


_________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Diagnostics:

Remove the Center Console tray and place out of the way. You will also want to empty the cubby at the front of the console. To remove the Center Console lid, open the cup holder, set the parking brake, place the shifter in D/3, and pry up from the back to the front. If this is the first time this has been done on your car it will be a little difficult. There are about four sets of clips on both sides of the lid. Take your time and it should come off intact, just move slowly. When all the clips have been disengaged, slide the lid up and rearward off the center console. Place it out of the way somewhere.

Next remove the Shift Knob, Boot, and Shift Indicator plate. To do this you will need to take out the clip that holds the knob onto the shifter. It's located towards the bottom front of the knob. I found that a small screwdriver worked best to pry it forward and out. After the clip has been removed, all three pieces can be removed as one.

Remove the wire harness plug from the front of the Shifter. While listening to the steering column, carefully jump the pink and purple/white wires in the plug to see if the solenoid in the column activates.

[img]http://www.unknownbrewer.com/gallery2/ma..._serialNumber=2[/img]

There should be a click when the wires are jumped. If the solenoid activates then the issue probably lies in the module that the plug goes into. Otherwise, the issue is either in the wiring harness or the lock cylinder.

WARNING: If you jump the wrong wires, you will most likely blow the BTSI fuse. I've done it and hence the my warning.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________

To remove the module, you will need to remove the Shifter Assembly. First disconnect the Transmission selector from the Shifter Assembly. The rod pops off of the Shifter with a little side pressure and then there is a little clip that holds it to the front of the Assembly. Next remove the wiring harness clips from base and unbolt the Assembly from the floor of the car.

[img]http://www.unknownbrewer.com/gallery2/ma..._serialNumber=2[/img]
[img]http://www.unknownbrewer.com/gallery2/ma..._serialNumber=2[/img]

After the bolts have been removed, the Shifter can be removed from the car and taken somewhere where you can perform surgery. xD

First grind off the rivet that holds the Shifter to the base of the assembly. Once the rivet has been removed, take the shifter off of the base.

Now, pop off the little circular disc and remove the little plastic lever from the module. Grind the two rivets that hold the module to the Shifter. Remove the rivets and slide the module off of the shifter taking care not to lose the spacer disc that sits between them as well as the funky cylindrical piece that fits into the module and just happens to be spring loaded.

Alrighty, at this point you should have a little black box that fits in the palm of your hand. There are four clips that hold it together. Carefully disengage each of the clips and pull the lid off of the module. I've found a small screwdriver to be handy here. With the lid off of the module, you should see a circuit board with a few different things on it. You're primarily interested in the long brass looking switch that rests on a contact and the end of a nylon rod.

Take a fine emery board or sand paper and lightly sand the contacts on the switch. After sanding them, place a small amount of dielectric grease on the contacts and reassemble the module.

At this point everything should be the reverse of what's been done up to now. The only exception is that you will need to replace the rivets with bolts. The one suggestion I have is when you bolt things back together on the assembly, place a drop of loktite on bolts. I didn't do this and one of the bolts fell out after the nut had come loose. For the few days that it was like this, it felt like I had a manual in my car, but that's besides the point. crazy

_____________________________________________________

I'll be adding pics of the actual module tonight, but I figured I should at least get this out for y'all to look over. Holler at me if you have questions and I'll help wherever I can.

-- John

Edit: looks like I need to fix those pictures too.. Sorry for the blurry text. =\
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