01GTshaner how you going to get your balancer bolt off? (or are you going single belt?)

Definitely not doing single belt, screw that. IDK how he did it, but i'm sure its not THAT hard seeing as my installer did it fairly easy, i think he said thats what took the longest. Not sure.

Just call me Shane, opposed to writing my whole username lol

Some guy on a ontario / quebec GP club says this :

The thing is the N/A engine have higher compression, so they heat up more under the same pulley size when compared to a L67 which has lower compression. This is why ZZP has made the 4.0 and 4.2 pulley's (with the offset) to use one belt. It looks like you're going to grab the other pulley's, crank pulley, etc?...then you'll run two belts like the L67's but internally the engine is still a L36. Now I would presume that 4.2 and not larger was done so if you did just basic mods, like the minimum, Ported manifolds, DP w U-bend delete, plugs, Stat and PCM should be fine with a 4.2.

Is he correct or lieing.

Eh hes not wrong but he is over exaggerating the point. Granted the L36 has higher compression ratio 9.5:1 compared to the L67 which is 8.5:1. That being said doing a top swap alone without certain other mods will cause KR. But you have enough of the supporting mods already to run a 3.8 pulley. A dounpipe would help but not necessary. If you are having someone tune it just make sure they pull a little more timing. Ive seen loads of people just do a top swap and be fine but supporting mods are there for a reason. However you should be good with what you have. I know zzp's tune for a top swap is for the 3.8 pulley so your buddy is one of those omg safety tree huger people. Don't worry about it just make sure whoever is tuning knows what size pulley your using. Our engines are beast don't worry about it.

Thats what i thought. I have NGK TR55's and i probably could go w/ Autolite 104 / 103's for the heat range difference JUST to be safe but its not that huge of a deal.

103's are too cold. They are for turbo setups more. Stick with 104's.

What the guy said is correct.

And for your other question, go with 104's.

ZZP is crazy. I know they're only a few hours away but i ordered my shipment (about 7 items) and got sent tracking information less than 2 hours later and i'll be getting it today (since its 4 am lol)

Pretty good I'd say.

I went with the 104's, thanks guys. Also I'll be getting my manifolds ported as well ! Thats pretty good. All thats left to buy :

S/C Oil
Head Gaskets
Oil
Coolant
Belt
Injector connectors
Crank Pulley

What has been said is correct you can run a pulley size warented by you mods (Irun a 3.25 on a 10-1 comp. ratio with mods and 0 kr)you get a lot of misimformation from different club sites that have no real experience with a top swap ,the thing is start with a MPS so you can work up on pulley sizes as you mod ,its good your starting wit a dual belt setup because frankly the single belt system is limiting and you will want to change ,now with the crank bolt its not that hard just put a pair of vice grips on the fly wheel to hold and use a breaker bar with a piece of pipe to remove the old damper if you do'nt have a puler just use a block of wood and a small sledge (you do'nt have to worry about damaging it as your not using it again) any questions just ask I have been running a FI L-36 for 2 years and have'nt blown up yet.and fyi do'nt bother with PEMS they are a waste of time especially the front the rear is ok and to port this along with a plog and 3"DP is a good setup or just spring for some cheap e-bay headers .Chico(pops)

What Chico said except for some reason I wonder if you know how to get at the flex plate lol. Your going to have to separate the trans from the motor.

If your going to do headers down the line don't bother porting the rear or doing the Plog. Just save up for your end goal.

To access the flex plate to hold engine while breaking loose the crank bolt simply drop the trans splash guard attach vise grips on the flex plate on the right hand side .....

Anyone know the size / number of belt from ZZP i'd need for my s/c setup ? confusing over there

You would need a667 SC belt and a915 acc belt.

Is the acc belt for my original pulley's i have there now ? Thats a brand spankin new belt do i need to replace that ? And thanks Chico =)

Wow I didn't even think about that. Damn I had just done that to check flex and make sure the converter wasn't lose. I never even thought about getting grips in there. Damn Chico you ever wrong lol?