There is nothing complicated about installing the PCM. Again:
disconnect a battery terminal.
swap PCMs.
reconnect battery terminal.
IF the check engine light comes on, you may need a case learn. worry about that later.
You really can't screw this up.

Also, resetting the PCM is NOT a case learn, as crimpton said.
IF you need one, and IF you go to a dealer to have it done, be careful to inform them not to overwrite the PCM. They do that a lot and it basically turns your $$ DHP into a stock PCM.


As far as the off-topic topic goes:
I can't beleive you haven't reset your PCM already after all that commotion yesterday about the CAI and whatnot! Don't worry about it now, just install the DHP and call it good.

i did reset it i think, but after there is clicking now, every time i turn the key to on it clicks under the hood, people say its my batt cables are loose, but after reseting it dident seem to change the performance of the intake, is it supossed too? and if so how long do i have to drive until i get the full performance from it?

and it might be complicated to reinstall cuz i have an alarm system, and should i add all the mods first before changing the pcm?

Doing the PCM before other mods won't hurt. If you did the pulley before anything else, that wouldn't be good.


Honestly you probably won't notice a performance different with the intake. Its more of a helper for your other mods, all working together. As far as the length of time, give it a couple days for the PCM to fully adjust fueling/timing. Also make sure you're using premium gas, although you already should be with the GTP. Use highest grade (within reason).


Dunno what your clicking could be. If its a fast, constant clicking, it seems like injectors pulsing, which would be strange. I've had that happen on a series-I 3800 that I was working on. Turned out to be filthy coil pack / ign module contacts.

nope its when the car is off, just in the on position, and it just clicks really fast on both side of the motor, but people said it could be the battery, why would it be clicking on both sides?

LOL@ beating an equine.

OMG what the h-ll most of what I've read does'nt make a whole lot of sense ,not to be too harsh but you are making Canadians look "doh" .And please do'nt try any real engine work eg: cam swap or even rockers.Chico. :rolleyes:

AHHHH!!! this thread is so messed up its not funny!

I thought after all that went on yesterday you would have disconnected your battery! No you wont get zapped, just dont grab the negative and the positive terminals at the same time!

Just go install the PCM. enough people have told you how simple it is. Disconnect the battery and do it

Its 12VOLTS, I don't think it is not going to hurt worse than a bee sting if you get zapped! And it is normal because you are connecting metal to an electrical source, the negative is the return line to the battery. There is more than plenty of GPs here that know their @$#%, you know. Even the first reply you get is going to be pretty much your answer. Most of these folks have been around a long time. I believe you keep talking to the wrong crowd (your grandfather and uncle) about this car and they don't know about the GP. So take this advise when you get it and don't say otherwise.

I've probably changed more batteries than anyone on this forum, seeing as it's part of my job. I have yet to be shocked by one. Disconnect the negative cable first and you can't get shocked. It even makes it impossible to short out the positive on anything except the negative battery terminal.

You will NOT feel 12 volts unless its across your tonque! HAHA.
I guess I'll save a new post and mention that it will likely spark when disconencting and connecting the battery -- don't worry about that. Low voltage / high current = spark that can't zap you.
The only thing in your car that can zap you is the coils/ignition wires. Just don't pull those off, haha.

Guys, its not the volts that hurt at all. Its the amperes.

Amperage above about 10A will kill a man. 550-750 like our batteries are pushin can kill a whole buncha men. at once.

frequency is what burns. Higher frequency, faster tissue burn.

Voltage is how much potential, um...think force behind a push, that the signal/power flow has.

The resident engineers here, if you would, either correct or agree with these statements. One thing for sure: disconnect the bloody neg terminal, dont hold on to the pos term, and do the durn thing

Yeah, a 12 volt battery can push 600+ amps, which is plenty to kill you, but the fact is, its hard to push that many amps through your body. Your body's resistance (initially) will be around 1500 ohms.
The car's starter probably has a resistance of 0.1 ohms ish. 15v divided by 0.1 is about 150 amps, about right.
Now 15v divided by your body's resistance of say 1500 ohms is 0.01A, not much, and that low voltage probably won't even penetrate the skin, so no current is going to flow anyway.

If you want 500 amps to flow through your body, you'll need to be touching something with the potential of over half a million volts.
Oh, and 60Hz AC is MUCH more dangerous than DC.

To get killed you'll need about 0.05-0.10 amps 60Hz going across the heart, so thats why a good contact with 120V for a length of time can be lethal.

So actually richard, it IS the volts that hurts (as long as the source is powerful enough to maintain the voltage), since the current is inversely proportional to your body's fixed resistance.

Thanks for that. I will be copying this post. I was instructed in AIT that DC is more dangerous because it causes the body to clamp down on the source. AC, with it going to zero and negative will throw a person from the wire. Why is this not true?

All I know is that Edison ran DC, however, AC is easier to transmit longer distances without needing stations to increase the strength. In order to help his causes and beat the competition, he promoted the use of electric for execution and made the first electric chair... utilizing AC.