i keep repeating myself here. If i had the cash i would do all of this, but you are going to have to spend the cash!!! Do you understand that you are spending 2800+1100 install. Thats almost 4 grand. Plus a tuner, plus a tranny. You are going to dump almost 7 grand into your car, and since you keep on saying smaller pulley smaller pulley, you are going to run the risk of popping a piston. You are dumping that kind of cash into a car that is work around 5k. You better be ready for a serious invenstment that is going to break stuff. There is an old saying "Cheap, fast, reliable, you can only pick 2".

We are here to help, but it just isnt working, i keep saying the same thing over and over again. It just seems like you should keep learning before you jump into something like this.

ok im not getting the tranny yet i never had a thought of it i know i would need one later down the road... so ok i wont start with a 3.2 start i will start at about a 3.5 or so and save and tune save and tune until everything is good

$$$$$

ok i guess you guys are tired of me with this top swap but i was staying up late last night looking around and trying to figure everything out when i was remined that ordonez and drummerboy did the cheaper top swap... whats the diff between that and the ssm90? besides the obvious price? if you go that route should you make sure the LMI and Blower are ported? how do you go about moding after words do you treat it as a L67 or L36? i know i have a lot of learning to do and well it all starts someplace.....

The actual top swap is cheaper, but more work.

The ZZP kit is quite simple because it doesn't require all the parts such as swapping heads, crank pulley etc, but it is more expensive. I spent about $1200 on everything for my top swap, that includes parts, gaskets, misc items and meals to pay the people who helped me. I did the regular top swap with an Intense Stage 1 cam.

With both methods you should have the blower and lim ported to help distribute the boost better among the 6 cylinders and keep the S/C temps down lower. I would say go for it with a 3.5", you should definitely be fine if you get the XP, but if you're scanning and you see 0* knock and all the parameters look good, drop pulley sizes. You will have to be extremely careful because each car will react differently and require different mods.

I'm already saving for a built tranny because these cars have very weak trannies and they will not be able to handle all of that additional HP and torque the new setup will be putting out. If you go through with all this you should expect to have that done too.

Hope that helps some... really we are here to help but there are so many things to take into consideration that it's all pretty overwhelming at times. You just have to plan carefully and know your goals, as well as how much money you have to spend.

thanks drummerboy... yea i happened to come across the wbodystore they have the kit for 1299 or so and since im planning on have someone work on it for me what the hell save money... but what kind of intercooler can i run with this? would we mod for the L67 or L36??

Mod for the L67, but be much more careful than modding with an L67, because of the higher compression ratio. For example, I have an N/A cam grind, but idealistically you would get a blower cam grind for better results, and you can drop pulleys like an L67.

ok now i was reading the top swap vs ssm90 post and well if i get that kit from wbody right and right away send them to zzp to get ported if i choose the option for the ss m90 port would that work? or no and what is this egr hole fill they do?

another ? drummerboy why did you go with that cam? whats better the xp hot cam or one of intense blower cam?

The XP cam can be run with stock heads, so for your purposes it's probably best... I bought the Intense cam from Chico on here for $100, couldn't say no to that deal, it works fine but you'd get better results from a blower cam.

On the porting you can do it yourself with a dremel and some patience, but with ZZP's port job... if you go with the regular top swap, just select "outlet only" under option 1. If you go with the ZZP SS M90 kit, select "mod'd for use on SS L36 kit". For the SS kit, they port the outlet the same, but also make other modifications necessary for the kit to work.

ok and what about the timing chain?? get the double or stay with the single?

it looks like the 1X intense cam is the better one to get

You'll have to do some research and decide based on your money situation, I don't know the pros and cons of switching to a double roller so I can't really comment on that, when I installed my cam, I replaced the timing chain but it was just a new stock replacement, and it was only for peace of mind.

You replaced the dampener too, right? When I stuck my cam in, I replaced with a stock chain and dampener as well. I went over the whole single vs double roller in another thread (maybe one of yours), try searching for it.

BTW, the XP cam is slightly bigger than the 1X.

Nope, I bought one to replace it, but mine was fine? I hope that doesn't come back to haunt me...

If your looks ok, it is fine. Hang on and let me post a pic of the one that came off my engine.

Ok, check out the wear: