Hey guys.

Was kinda thinkin about doing a cam for my NA 3800 and I've got some questions.

Even if I don't get the cam, would replacing most of my valve train be a good idea, as they may be worn with use afte 115k with me being a rather bad owner?

Would I be able to do any of that myself, as a novice?

How much would it run me, just for parts, to get a cam and new springs, rockers, pushrods, etc. ?

How much would labor be at a good price vs. a bad price?

Anybody else like pie? I really wish I had some pie right now...

i also want pie...

I would recommend having help availible. I have 146k on my motor and when I pull it this weekend to do everything to it, I am also doing new piston rings, conn rod bearings, and a new timing chain. Also I think you would be okay with stock rockers and pushrods, but you may need to buy upgraded springs because of the bigger powerband.

Here's approximate prices:
Cam $280
Install kit - $60 I think?
New Springs - $100

Labor - good price $4-500, bad price $800-1000

LOTS involved with a cam swap, as I am finding out the hard way. you may want to hold off for know, and learn everything that you can about the car, motor, valve train, etc.

The hardest part of a cam swap is putting the new cam bearing races in and setting the timing.

Cam bearings don't need to be touched. Otherwise it would be a huge undertaking. They wear a lot slower than mains, rods, or piston rings so there isn't anything to worry about.

I thought anytime you change the cam you need new bearings.

Not that I'm aware of. The only time you need to replace them are when they either go bad or you have the block cleaned (because the solution will eat them, and they're not reusable like other bearings).

it is better to replace than reuse because how long will the old last before you have to change again

true, but as i'm finding out with my "mild" engine rebuild, there is always something else that you can replace and spend more money on, always always always. It just depends on how far you want to take it, and like Herc mentioned, how much your wallet will allow.

90% of cam installs I've seen do not include the installation of new cam bearings. It's like redoing the bottom end rebuild like drummer. If you do the job 100%, you have the crank resurfaced, the block cleaned, blueprinted, and balanced, and the cylinders rebored to remove any out of roundness. The problem comes with the price tag... and most don't have the disposable income (I don't).

Me too... on this topic of spending money in areas that aren't 100% necessary... should I spend any effort and money on having my cylinder walls honed? Just like everything else, someone told me that I really need to do it.

I'm starting to even wonder if I should do the rod bearings and rings because I am scared to death that I'm gonna screw something up beyond repair. Plus the rings were so dang expensive. It's mainly that I've never done anything of this magnitude...

Honed or bored? Honed, absolutely. It doesn't take very long and is necessary for the new piston rings to seat. Be sure to try and get the scour marks to go at 60* angles to each other. Provides the idealistic surface. Also, be sure to gap the rings right.

Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about replacing them without further machine work. If you were installing new components, (rods, pistons, etc) perhaps. Just make sure the bearing surfaces on the crank don't have any marks that would signify damage. If so, get it to a machine shop for a resurface.

can I do the honing myself? I know there are tools out there... but not sure on price

To hone the cylinders your gonna have to pull the crank shaft.

You do it from the top, so it's not necessary to pull the crank. But if you're pulling pistons, you'll probably remove the crank anyway. AutoZone has the stone version in their loan-a-tool program. Just buy some stones in the store to use, don't use the ones on the tool (if there are any).

It's a rather simple process of attaching the tool to a drill (preferably non-battery), and running it up and down the bore as it turns to produce the desired hatch pattern and remove cylinder glaze. Be sure to use a good cutting oil and keep the cylinder/stones wet with it while working. If you can find a bottle hone (look like a big pom-pom), it's even easier to use.

Umm where is all that junk from honing going to go? To ensure you don't get that gunk where it doesn't belong your gonna have to pull the crank so you can properly clean out the cylinders.

Well, you could put something over the crank to protect it during the process, then turn the engine back over to clean everything out (that way it runs away from the crank). There honestly shouldn't be that much junk coming out from honing. You're just scratching the surface.

You have to use some kind of lube to keep the hone from filling up and ruining your hone job. My favorite lube for such is diesel.

I might just take my block to a machine shop and see what they can do for me, because I think I am in wayyyy over my head.

It's not hard, but you do have to cross every T and dot every I. Same goes for disassembling the heads. Be sure to label every pushrod, etc. and put it back exactly where you got it from. A box with holes is a good jig for holding parts in order.

Let us know how it ends up.

I thought he was gonna replace the push-rods.

Um, wasn't planning on it... oh no... something else to spend money on... well the time has come almost, tommorow I'm pulling the motor. Wish me luck!

Personally I would never just replace rod bearings without checking the mains,at this high of mileage it would be prudent to at least check,if you are not comfortable with the build by all means take your block to a machine shop have them hot tank it and replace cam bearings the extra steps you take in this build may save you money in the long run .Chico.

If your not replacing the push-rods and lifters then get your self a cardboard box and punch 12 holes in it to place your push rods into. This well keep them organized so when you put them back in they go in the hole they came out of. Do the same for your lifters.