My site is up.
http://www.robandcatsworld.com/hub.htm

Required Parts

Hub Timken Part Number 513121 cost is about 150$

replacement mounting bolts metric grade 10.9 (forgot diameter and length take old bolt with you to the hardware store) You'll need 3

Required specialty tools

Hub nut socket 36mm about 13$

two or three prong puller about 7$

Torque wrench capable of 100 foot pounds

Heavy short handled hammer

Scouring pad or sandpaper

Estimated labor time 2 to 3 hours

Place the car on level ground set the transmission in park, set the parking break and chock the rear wheels

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to remove. Do not remove lug nuts at this time.

Raise the car and properly support the car with jack stands.

Remove the lug nuts and remove the tire and wheel.

On the lower control arm unplug the ABS sensor.

Using the hub nut socket remove the hub nut at this time.

Now remove the two bolts mounting the caliper to the caliper bracket with a 13mm wrench. You may need to compress the caliper piston. Use the box end or the handle of your ratchet to push on the piston becareful not to chip it. Do not let the caliper hang by the hose you could cause the hose to fail resulting in no brakes. Use some kind of tie to secure the caliper to the spring out of your way.

Now remove the two bolts mounting the caliper bracket to the hub.

Next remove the brake rotor.

Now rotate the stearing wheel full right. This will give you more room for wrench turning.

Remove the upper bolt and the lower forward bolt. Becareful these bolt heads are soft and strip easy.

Turn the stearing wheel full left and remove the lower aft bolt.

Using the puller place the jaws on the outside of the hub and the center pin on the axle shaft. Tighten the center pin until the axle pushes out of the backside of the hub. You need to ensure the splines on the axle are clear of the hub.

The Hub is ready to be removed at this time. You may need the hammer to persuade the hub off of the spindle.

When you have the hub removed use your scouring pad or sand paper to clean up the inside of the spindle. Becareful not to remove any metal just andy crud that may be built up.

Take your new hub pass the ABS sensor wire through the hole in the spindle and insert the hub into the spindle. Ensure it goes in evenly it's a tight fit while at the same time align the splines on the axle shaft with the hub and push the axle through the hub.

Reinstall the hub mounting bolts and torque to 92 foot pounds.

Install the hub nut and torque to (Sheesh I forgot) goodintight

Plug the ABS sensor into the recepticle.

Hang the brake rotor on the hub.

Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket torque the bolts to 65 foot pounds.

Reinstall caliper.

Hang the wheel onto the hub and snug the lug nuts.

Set the car back on the ground and tighten the lugnuts.

Notes... Turning the wheel side to side gives room for removing and installing mounting bolts. To find replacement 10.9 bolts I had to go to the local True Value hardware store. Napa doesn't carry those bolts.

Nice write up!

That's taken straight from my site.

sweet. my right front is getting there... now it shouldnt be much of a problem. Thanks Herc!

Good writeup ,follow these steps and the install is basically foolproof.Chico.

Yea, the first one took about 1.5 hours to do. Learned some stuff. The second one took about 30 minutes. Thanks guys for all the help. I guess there is nothing to do with the old ones correct? Maybe a scrap yard.

I cut mine up to see what failed and it failed because they are non greasable. What grease that was left in there was like candle wax.

I threw mine out.

Hi all...
i've went through a few hubs in the last year. I originally replaced the driverside because the ABS sensor died. Used the Dynapack brand from Advance.. it started makin a popping noise when i turned. so i swapped it out again. same noise, this time i swapped the hubs from drivers to passangers and the sound followed it so i replaced it with a BCA brand from NAPA. was quiet for a few months now its popping again! is the timken brand going to fix my noise?? have there been issues with other brands?
thanks all!

After trying 2 different aftermarket brands,(Dynapack was one, can't recall the other) I had to replace them both for a GM OEM part. Luckily I was able to return them. A funny thing though, I torqued them to proper specs and they were still making noise, the GM part I didn't torque to spec and worked perfect.

No issues with the Timkins.

Jason2000GTP: A popping noise while turning would be something I'd associate with a CV Joint going bad... Not necessarily a hub. Just an idea for you...

i did try new CV... nothing but wasted money

i think im gonna see if i can return it and try Timken. i HATE that noise!!!

got my Timken brand Hub in... it looks Exactly the the one i had from NAPA.. even the neon-greenish coating on the studs.
grr. hope this works!

im gonna swap them tonight.. lets pray to the Hub gods that this $hit works

Interesting, never had problems with my BCA hubs other than one going right before the warranty was up...

Just put one in Arc's car this past weekend... Need to figure out what her other noises are now...