SO I payed $70 and bought an AC Delco sensor to replace my Bosch front O2 sensor.

At first I thought it worked as when driving around town it didn't surge at all.

But when I get a few blocks from home, the starts surging and when I leave from a stop, sometimes it will nearly kill. But not kill like one would think, it's like the RPMS just dip all the way down to idle and then climb back up from there. Power is still fine, lights don't flicker or anything, it's just the powertrain that loses power.

Also, I've been chewing through about 10 miles to the gallon... HIGHWAY! It's even worse driving around town.

I sealed the headers, put a new O2 sensor in, now what?

I couldn't even get to school today partly because accelerating and cruising were just aweful, it felt so unsafe driving like that. When accelerating, the RPMS would fluctuate maybe 75 rpms in either direction. Now they are fluctuating between 100-200 rpms. You can't imagine how difficult it is to drive like that.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

I know you just did a top swap but have you done a compression test?

You might have a bad gasket.

On your top swap did you have the heads rebuilt?

I never had the heads rebuilt.

Never did a compression test.

Checked for vac leaks but never found any.

If I had a bad gasket I'm sure I would have blown it by now, wouldn't you think? My oil and coolant look absolutely perfect so no leaks or anything there.

And I'm running fine at the track so I don't think it's something that would cause a loss of power.

Start by checking the following and I don't care if it's new. I had someone that just replaced wires and one of them was bad from the factory.

Spark Plug Wires
Fuel lines for leaks
IAC Actuator
Vaccuum lines
Scans/Codes
Transmission Fluid Level and Condition

so you didnt get the heads checked or anything before you threw them on there?

No. I wasn't really aware that it might be an issue. That's the kind of thing people leave out in "Top-Swap Guides" and order forms...

I added 3 to my AE tables from 0%-35%. It helped with my part throttle KR a bit, which was nice and also the tranny seems more responsive but it's still surging.

If I had MY laptop charger instead of Ema's I would still be tuning but her charger won't work with mine but both work for her laptop.

My plug wires are stock from when I bought the car. I've never had a misfire ever so I think those are ok.

No leaks in the fuel lines. However, I don't have the normal "elbows" in them, they broke so I have rubber fuel line hose clamped to them. Not the best/safest solution but it works.

I just cleaned my IAC a week or two ago. The idle got a little softer but didn't help the problem any.

I need to find some kind of combustible spray that I can use to check for a vac leak. I don't think the last stuff was flammable.

I was throwing a P1133 code because of the headers and leaks. Pulled it from the PCM and thne it started giving me P0133 and P1134 instead. Well, now I have a brand-new AC Delco front 02 sensor and sealed the headers again. It's still giving me the P0133 code but the P1134 hasn't showed up again. I'd bet if I enable the P1133 again it would throw that code instead.

I've checked the tranny fluid once since the rebuild. It looked fine and smelt fine.

I think I'll pull plugs today and get some better vaccum detector crap.

EDIT: Just used some carb and choke cleaner. No vac leaks anywhere...

Well a good rule of thumb around here is if you pull the plug wires off (which you did for the top swap)chances are you'll need new one. I'd swap those out.

So you didn't have the heads worked over prior to install. Get a compression check. You may have some blow by on a valve.

I checked the plugs. They all look just fine, #1 has a little brown discoloration but WAY less than when I pulled the stock plugs.

I'm going to lay some info down so there isn't any speculation and so it's all laid out for anybody to see.

-Bought the car August of '06
-Started modding in December of '06
-Top-swapped the car, finished on the 14th-15th of July
-Did my first PTuner scan on September 21st
-First MAF tune on September 27th
-Started chugging on the night of September 28th
-Reloaded previous, UNEDITED .bin in hopes that I just had a bad MAF tune. NO CHANGE!
-Was told that the chugging was likely tranny related by board members.
-Tranny rebuilt on October 22nd, included new torque convert.
-STILL DOES THE SAME THING. Albeit, it has been getting worse
-Last week, replaced front 02 sensor, chugging believed to be cause by running too lean. Sealed headers as well. NO EFFECT.
-Today, added 3% to all AE tables between 0% TPS and 35% TPS. Throttle response and part-throttle KR got better. NO CHANGE IN CHUGGING.
-Today, sprayed carb cleaner around engine, NO LEAKS.
-Today, checked plugs for discoloration. No discoloration that would cause this problem.
-Today, used ohmmeter to check plug wires. NO RESISTANCE, wires are good.

I've always been very careful with my plug wires. The car isn't missing, it's an entirely different "chugging" feeling. I can't even explain how it feels.

It's WAY to slow to be caused by an engine revolution or anything connected to it.

The speed of it increases AS ACCELERATION INCREASES! Meaning, if I'm accelerating like a grandma around town, it's very slow but just as forceful. But if I'm accelerating hard, (NOT WOT) it's quick enough that it jars your head in the seat. And yes, it is that forceful. Imagine driving the car but "pulsing" the throttle as you accelerate.

Read all the parameters again with the PT. IAC, MAF, TPS, all the good stuff. Something may show there.

http://www.scandepot.net/viewscan.php?pk=4497

That's my most recent scan and I can't see **** wrong with it either.

Have you tried unplugging the MAF to see if it ran any better?

Here is what I scan: My Scan

Your LTFT are all over the place. What are your STFT?

NO, should I though?

I could go for a quick drive right now... but still, I'm not sure ti will help.

It's to see if you have a bad MAF sensor. If it runs better with it unplugged.

Could a faulty TPS be a culprit?

With it unplugged it ran like absolute ****. But the way it ran seemed to be just an aggrivated version of the crap it's already doing.

Wanting to stall when moving from a stop. Chugging under acceleration.

Hmm...

EDIT: Herc, during one of my first weeks of going to school, on my way out of town, the car threw a P0121 code, TPS Range/performance.

I've yet to see another TPS code. Would a faulty TPS also make it hard for the car to shift into OD? BEcause even on the highway going 60, sometimes it just does NOT want to shift into overdrive.

I am not a pro, but looking at your TPS and your LTFT together, gets me all confused. Wonder if Herc is right?

Maybe you have something messed up in the shift tables?

I sprayed my TPS down with electrical cleaner when I did the rest of the sensors. I figure if anything was lodged in there that it as out now.

Any ways I can check the TPS?

EDIT: I have never touched a thing outside the MAF table. The only thing besides the MAF table I have adjusted is turning off my P0300 and P1133 codes.

TPS could cause wierd shifting. Since it does have input into downshift for WOT etc.

Since it ran worse with the MAF unplugged I'd rule that one out.

If the TPS is sending info that is within "range" a code shouldn't pop but at the same time if it's not showing the proper throttle position (ie. closed throttle when actually it's half throttle)you could get issues that will mess with your fueling.

Turn your key to on.. but dont start it... set your interceptor (or PT) to TP % and then watch it as you step on the gas.

TPS is fine. Full readings from 0-99.

When you sprayed the TPS, did you unplug the connector and dry it out? My ex-boss was notorious for shorting out TP Sensors, whenever he'd pressure wash an engine... :rolleyes:
You might also take a look at your EGR valve; make sure it doesn't have any carbon jamming it up.

for kicks check your map sensor....i know your gonna say it cant be it...but just check it please

MAP sensor is fine, I was reading it earlier today. Is there something SPECIFIC you want me to check about it?

I'll try the EGR tomorrow if I can. Somebody suggested that too but I had unplugged it and drove but nothing changed.

No, I let the TPS dry out first. That stuff dries really quick.

i guess start scanning evrything one at a time

its probly very simple and its being overlooked. ( well we can hope )

No Codes? Symtoms sound similar to johnnywholenote issues. He just found out it may be the ignition module.

If you have the EGR unplugged and a piece of carbon is blocking the pintle, nothing will change.

just delete the EGR. and clear the codes

I clear the codes all the time, thye come back the moment I stay on the highway for more thna 5 minutes.

And the only code is that P0133 code, and that's just a nuisance because I KNOW my exhaust is fine.

I don't have time tonight to **** with the car, gotta go to school in an hour. Maybe tomorrow after school.

BTW, I REALLY REALLY like working in the deli. It's a blast!

If it keeps throwing that code, there must be something going wrong. My EGR is blocked to the LIM. Now with my TOGS, I am going to weld that egr shut and leave the EGR off the car.

Can't find where you posted about the deli, well which company, but you have to be 18 to run the meat slicer, thought that is funny. I know you are at least 18, it was just something I thought about when you said deli. And if it is for like Publix, you can spend 15 minutes cooking me a fresh steak sub as I watch you stand over that grill with your hair wrap and cook me something delicious!

HAH!

Driving home from class just now, the SES light came back on.

I figure it's just the P0133 again but I use that interceptor gauge and sure the P0133 is there but there is a NEW CODE! (why does this excite me, shouldn't I be pissed? lol)

ANybody wanna guess?

P0102! Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input!

I think my MAF took a **** on me.

OH, I work deli at Pick N Save. And I don't know why but that job, as hecktic as it is, is like freakin paid vacation compared to my other job. So much fun.

And I don't have a hair wrap. I have a hat. HUGE DIFFERENCE!

I don't do subs but I can slice up some cold-cuts and cheese for a sandwhich. Chicken too, I can do that stuff.

YOu just made my night with that post on Pic N save dude! Since the Interceptor is hooked up all the time, or more frequent during driving, just run a scan for codes once a week or something. Sometimes they are hidden and they already popped up and you missed it.

The SES light come on every time I'm on the highway for more than 5 minutes. I've scanned/cleared the codes twice today.

The PO 102 MAF code is most likely a false code, due to unplugging the sensor. If the same two codes keep coming back, start with the lower number code first.

It's just one code now, P0133 HO2 sensor Slow Response Bank 1.

And actually, I think that code may have been from the carb and choke cleaner. I sprayed some into the intake to get a general idea of what kind of sound I should hear shoudl the cleaner find a vac leak.

GREAT news!

Upon deciding the try and test for what's causing the problem, I unplugged the front 02 sensor in hopes that the car would no longer surge.

IT WORKED!

Car runs GREAT, well, as great as it can be without it's eyes

Anyway, that narrows it down to either a) a bad, brand new 02 sensor, b) a damaged wiring harness, or c) something completely unrelated being broken somewhere else in the car.

I think I'm going to pull the extension out and test all te leads for continuity and make sure it's the harness. Even if I don't find any problems with it, I'll order another anyway, because although I fixed the harness the one time I burned through it, I'd rather have a brand new one I KNOW is fine.

Got some info for you to check out. Club member has issues like you. Tearing his car apart to find the problem. He got one code of Low MAF cicuit crap! He just posted after about two weeks of issues that a FUSE has cause the issue.
Symptoms are very similar to yours.

I'm leaning towards a bad wire harness or something along those lines now.

A while ago I did fry the 02 extension harness against the headers, though I did pull it and re-insulate the wires.

I will pull it again to check it but I'm thinking I'm just going to order another one.

mine did same. pulled out idle air control and cleaned, no more surge