any writeup on how to do it? im thinking about doing it today how long does it take to swap?

It's pretty straight forward.

Undo bolts, remove, replace gaskets intall with good to go.

But you really need to soak the bolts with PB blaster or your favorite penatrating lube many many times before you start.

One other thing you should do while under the car is to "flip" your sway bar. Front to back to ensure enough clearance between it and the DP.

and how do you do that herc?

Take the sway bar off. Rotate it 180* so the front is the back and the back is the front. Don't flip it end to end.

Its real easy. Just do as herc says, and flipping the sway bar is a good idea while youre there

well i soaked the bolts with pb and got no where with the the back 2 bolts. is it me or are the bolts 2 different sizes?

Ya lost me on that last post... which bolts?

they should be the same size...

just keep soaking them

If he's talking about the bolts on the flange between the cat and the resonator then the nuts I think are a different size from the bolts.

Don't be too surprised if the bolts break, and you have to drill them out...

I believe mine were 1/2". I sprayed mine twice a day for 4 days. The 115K miles of rust were stubborn, but gave up in the end. Also make sure you are using a 6 point socket, the 12 point may round off the nuts.

We had to take a torch to mine and heat them up....and my bolts were barely rusty (I did not soak them ahead of time)

yea im talking about the bolts that go between the dp and the resonator. and there are no nuts only bolts. it seems that one is a 14 the other is a 13, i was using a 6 point socket and it almost seems that i stripped the one bolt. looking at the new dp, is the flange supposed to be crooked?

There's nuts on there. It's so corroded you cant tell them apart. If you rounded either side your best off cutting with a cutting wheel and replacing the hardware.

how small are the nuts, cause there are practially nothing on the part i was working on... where can you get new hardware? how much?

DUDE, theone, where is ur big thumbnail?

You can use any grade 5 or higher bolt. As long as the length and diameter are the same. I'd go with stainless while your at it.

Sounds like corrosion has had it's way with your nuts.

years of bitting wears them thin.. haha... herc in laymen terms what that mean? link?

grade = how strong the bolt is higher the number stronger the bolt, 8= strongest

and just needs to be the same size

comparing the pics from 72chevyman it looks like the flange is welded on wrong...

When you look at a bolt head if there are three dashes around the perimeter pointing to the center it's a grade 5 (refers to a specific tensile strength for it's diameter) five dashes = a grade 8 which has a much higher tensile strenth then the 5. There is also a metric version as well. A metric grade 10 is comparable to an SAE grade 8.

That does look off center but I haven't looked at mine that close so I couldn't tell ya.

i know the hanger goes on the bottom, but it doesnt apear the holes of the new dp flange match the holes on the res flange....

what i like to do is get a while wheel on a drill and use that on the bolts then soak in pb and then scrub some more sometimes it works if last resort heat them red and then take them off

sorry to steal your post. what does it mean with this "56" thing? liek the homepages says "56k warn" i see it on a lot of titles...

people still using dial up internet

means if you have a 56k modem on your comp...(real old) it will make ur computer run real slow loading the pics and whatnot....and theone you have to loosen the rest of ur exhuast to spin it a little to match the DP flange annoying i know i dont know y they just dont weld it straight

Okay, apologizing in advance.

But that's just REALLY funny sounding, and as immature as it is, I lol'd.

haha

gee thanks arc ....

I think you took it wrong, lol. Not laughing at your predicament, 'cause I was in it too, with mine.

Just laughing at the way it was worded, because I'm an immature pervert.

lol no prob... i didnt take it the wrong way, so all the shop would have to do is rotate the res?

The flange is supposed to be off center. At least mine was.

If you look at the flange by the res, it should be crooked too. When you put your DP in there, the flanges should mate up.

Hey, I laughed too. I hate when my nuts get corroded.

why is that, that makes no sense...

oh yea the flange on the res should be angled too i was thinking when i put my cat back on i had to rotate that....you should be fine just bolting it right on theone

I think i would be a bit upset if my nuts got corroded.

well just got a call from the shop, its done, 60 bucks to install, cant wait to lift it to see what he did.

nice thats not that bad of a price to pay when you dont own a grinder or cutter......ordonez i second that hahaha

Hey...do the bolt on's from ZZP fit rerally well, or is there any little modificatrions that need to be made for them to fit snugley?

the dp was installed with out a hitch he said the bottom bolts i was working on were cut off. I don't notice any different sound inside except more power, but behind the car you can tell its a lil louder. Pretty good mod.

Mine fit perfectly, I had to "adjust" the heat shield a little to clear the rear O2 sensor. Both my cats are MUCH louder, but I had no resonators. I have since installed a glasspack in my GP which had chambered mufflers. It was NASTY sounding. My wife's Monte with magna flow mufflers and a custom 2.5" mandrel cat back was nice at first, but has developed a vibration inside at certain RPMs. It is also throwing a knock sensor CEL. I have ordered a dynomax race magnum 12" bullet muffler which should take care of these issues.