I'm not planning on doing it anytime soon but I wanted to ask some questions on it, mainly to drummer and ordonez(sp?)

1. Obviously it's easier to do with the engine outside the car. How hard is it to get the engine out of the car? How long would it take?

2. How much is a good price for a top-end swap? That includes a boosted cam.

3. What's hard about doing it? Just lots of work or are there things that are reeeeal specific to be done?

4. How long would it take once the engine is out of the car? Hours? Days? A solid weekend?

5. Where's the best place to get the parts for a swap? Local junkyard? Ed Morad? How bout gaskets?

I think that's good for now. I'll have more later I'm sure.

1. Ask drummer. I did it with the engine in the car, so i cant help you with that

2. Top-swap from ed morad is like $750. Cam is around $300. Gaskets will cost you a few hundred, maybe $200?


3. It is a lot of work. You have to do the head gaskets, LIM gaskets, S/C gasket, TB gasket, harmonic balancer, etc.

4. I left it in there, and it took me around 4 days to do. Probably less if it is out of the car

5. Gaskets- ZZP. Hard Parts- Ed Morad

i think the zzp top swap is easier but alot more money ... i think D and Grand Pa (chico) have done that kit...

1) If you're doing a cam at the same time I would recommend you pull the motor. A cam install takes 30 minutes tops with the motor out. Plus I know torquing head bolts with the motor on a stand is much easier (especially the rear head). Removing the motor is a 3-6 hr job depending on your knowledge and mechanical ability. I started Friday at 3 pm and it was out by 7:30 or so... having someone who may have done it before to help is a big part of it. Mainly just making sure you've disconnected everything, undone all bolts, etc.

2) I paid $620 shipped for all the hard parts for my top swap. For the cam go XP ($300). For all gaskets, fluids, and misc trips to the parts store I would plan on another $300 or so

3) If you're fairly mechanical, nothing. It's just time consuming and making sure you do everything exactly right (correct torque specs, having all the right tools, etc)

4) Once the motor is out, I would leave a solid weekend. Mine took about 28 working hours spread over 4 days. If I wanted to, I could've had it done in a weekend, but I took plenty of meal breaks, sleep breaks etc to make sure I didnt go crazy.

5) Parts : Junkyard would be nice, but most of that stuff is very hard to find. Late model cars get picked over pretty fast at least around here. I would say Morad, although I did have some problems with some of the stuff he sent me (bad sensors, missing bolts & brackets), his prices/service/shipping is bar none.
Gaskets/Belts/Fluids/Misc : ZZP/GM dealer/parts store... most can be had from parts stores but I found there are some gaskets that nowhere but GM had

Hope that helps! Any more questions, feel free to PM me.

What gaskets can only be had at a dealership?

Cause my Lynch GM Superstore is a true $tealer$hip.

Quick Edit: Are there any guides for a top-swap? OR do I just have to have the parts and start pluckin parts and stickin ones that fit back in the empty spot?

Valve cover gaskets, downpipe gasket... both of which you can get from ZZP but why hassle with shipping?

how about a guide?

Uh...not sure... I think there might've been one on clubGP somewhere

with the more expensive kit it comes with a cd u can follow ... i dont think anything tells u how to do the cam and the cheaper kit you just have to know i guess or follow a gtp manual

there is a guide on Club GP. It really isnt that difficult. The cam might be, but everything pretty much fits like a puzzle

How do you do pulley swaps and stuff with the engine in the car ordonez?

Did you undo the mounts and raise/lower it in the bay?

What I'm thinking about doing is bribing my friend into giving me back my $550 I've lent him and doing a TES with the rest of my money.

And I jsut got off the phone with him. I don't think I'll ever see my money again...

I think I should just kill him and sell his organs. But he drinks so much...

Grr!

It is pretty easy. If you take the tire off of the passenger side, you can see the harmonic balacer right there. There is a special tool for the 3800 to remove it though.

You also have to add all of the S/C idler and tensioner pulleys to the CP bracket and the head. The S/C pulley is already attached to the snout.

You dont have to remove any of the mounts to do add any pulleys. But you will have to remove the Dogbones (upper mounts) in order to do the swap.

Checkout W-body store they have a complete top swap and all the gaskets available in a kit ,as far a a cam swap it is about an 8 out of 10 on difficulty with the engine still in the car and the head swap is also fairly hard ,you would need some experienced help so you do'nt f---k things up,a kit from ZZP is around $1400 and is easier to install whichever you decide you will probably need some help.Chico.(Pops)

Well, IF I do this, I'm doing it with a few things in mind.

1. I'm going to get my ricey Mazda running again and street legal because...

2. I AM going to take the engine out of the car and...

3. I'm going to take my time and spread it out over a week and take a few days off of work.

4. And unless it's something I ABSOLUTELY need help with like removing/replacing the engine, I'm doing it by myself.

So are there any special tools I would need? Like anythign outside a Craftsman 175 pc. socket set?

I want to do a top swap because I may want to drop a Whipple in later down the road.

I just want to get all the information I can. I'm not ready right now. Need to get a new cat-back so it doesn't look like crap, a GT rear bumper, and then I have to put my Mazda back together so I have a DD.

Best advice I can give you then is buy a GM service Manual this will be your bible as far as procedures and specialty tools .good luck.Chico(Pops)