To dismount the engine and tranny... get under the car,

1. take off the flywheel cover (plastic piece)
2. using a long, beefy screwdriver, slowly turn over the motor by wedging the screwdriver in the slots on the flywheel
3. there are 3 bolts holding the flywheel together with the torque converter, undo them all
4. put the screwdriver in between the flywheel and TC and you can separate them (the TC will move back about 1 inch)
5. once everything else is disconnected and the motor is ready to pull, there are 5 bolts holding the engine and trans together. undo em, the last one is the hardest because you have to go from the passenger side wheel well to get to it

That's where you needed like a 24" extension right?

How about the hood? Is that easy to take off as well or even necessary?

And would chains and a forklift suffice in lifting the engine out?

Edit: What about tranny fluid? Will I need to drain it? How does it get to the toque converter? Is that what line pressure refers to?

Yep, you need a 24" extension to get to that last bolt. As far as removing the motor... I suppose a forklift would work, I dont see why not.

You will have to remove the hood. Otherwise you will not have the clearance to remove the motor. Unbolt the 4 bolts from the hinges to the hood. The hinges are welded to the fenders so they stay on the car.

No need to drain the tranny fluid. Not sure on how it gets to the TC, but you won't have to worry about it

Hope this all helps. I'm more than happy to answer your questions (at least to the best of my ability!) so keep em coming!

Ed says he wants $75- for the hard parts in his e-mail. I'm going to call him when I get a chance.

I'm supposed to us my L36 pushrods/lifters/rockers/springs/retainers/valves right? Oh, springs, that's another thing I'll have to add to the cam list...

Edit: Actually, I'm going to go with a VS cam instead of an XP cam. I want to be able to keep the emmissions station happy without a powertuner.

Ed doesn't have a MAF for me so I assume I'll need one of those too?

How about the wiring harness? Do I need an adapter or can I just splice some wires? I'm pretty good with that as long as it's not like 130 wires.

I imagine the heads he sends you will have the springs and retainers, but no rockers. That's how mine were. You'll need to reuse your pushrods, lifters, and rockers.

If you're gonna do a cam, I would really recommend the XP. I don't know about what you mean about keeping emissions happy... but the XP isn't gonna affect that. If you do a cam now, you're never gonna want to do it again, so make sure you pick carefully. XP is hands down the best cam for stock heads, and you'll see gains from it that the VS cam will not give you.

If you're concerned about tuning, you can have ZZP tune your PCM for the XP/VS cam and top swap, and if you don't care about it being perfect just reset your fuel trims, drive nice for 50 or so miles mixed city/highway and you'll be good to go.

You'll only need a new MAF if the GTP throttle body he sends you is for a 99+ car. If he sends you a 97-98 TB (which you can probably request that he does) you can reuse your current MAF.

Here's the kit for the wiring harness you'll need:

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=173&catid=108

Hope this helps

I want the VS cam because I may not end up getting a Pwrtuner and I don't want to be throwing codes. Also, with the XP, I'd need 105# springs and mod'd retainers and thats another $280.

I'm not looking for tons of performance. Just the bragging rights of saying "yeah, I put a blower on my SE..." along with the wicked sounding idle and supercharger whine.

But anyway, talked to Ed today. $800 for the top swap, shipped right to my dad's shop where I'm going to keep the car.

I'm going to get to work on getting the gaskets, cam and fixin's, wiring harness adapter, and PCM. This weekend I think I'll go on ZZP and get all that stuff set up.

What I'm looking at is ~$580 for the VS cam, timing chain & dampener, engine rebuild gaskets, head gaskets, wiring harness adapter, add another $100 for the ZZP PCM and it's like $700 for everything else.

So I'm looking at $1500 for the swap. Little more than expected but I'm ok with it.

Gotta get my mufflers back on sadly Have to take my car in for emmissions cause my plates expire next month. Don't think they will like it if I roll in there with nothing but a HF cat and a resonator for an exhaust...

One thing I was thinking about doing was parting my blower and LIM. Anybody have info on doing that yourself or is that a send it to zzp thing?

M90 isn't going to whine much idling. Can barely hear them (I'm tellin ya... save for the novi kit for a mean idle ).

Not sure if anyone here ports their own stuff, but theres a lot on c-gp that do.

Fill the silencer slots in the M90 and it'll whine at idle. :p

port your own supercharger. have at it with a dremel and a file

with the cam and everything else I'd say $1500 is more than reasonable. between all the performance mods I've done to my car in the last 4 months it's been in between $1500-2000

Well I didn't mean S/C whine at idle.

I want a wicked idle and a S/C whine when I get on it.

But Rook!

Where are these silencer slots on said M90? What do I fill them with? Is it a bad idea? Will it hurt anything? Will it be too loud (is it even possible to be too loud)?

I thought about not doing a cam and getting rockers because it'd be cheaper. But I need a boosted cam don't I? Else I'm going to be blowing my boosty out the exhaust, right?

Haha, wow .. How do you know that?

If you plan doing all this work, you need to fine someone with a Tuner then. You're doing a lot to your engine. Changing the brain and all.

For a wicked idle get the XP cam... the VS isn't mean enough! As long as you have an intake setup the S/C will whine when you romp on it

Some people have done it with JB weld, i wouldn't waste your time though

Cost - rockers + install kit = $440, cam + install kit = $375

Cam > Rockers

Right. DO NOT use anything but a boosted cam for top swap setups

Guys on clubgp with movie clips. One in particular has a how-to thread where he drove screws in for support and use jbweld or something similar. I kinda wish I'd had the guts to do it while mine was off.

If you've got the time to do it, it makes your M90 more efficient at making boost by eliminating turbulence. Eaton designed the slots to keep M90s in the suburbs happy with neighbors. One of the M90 Gen V improvements is smaller silencer slots.

Here's a little FYI so dyno testing the m-90 SS kit puts down 253whp and 300wtq with a 4" pulley on a basically stock L-36 for around $1400 ,now take a look at Intenses performance package level 2 for $889 puts down 243whp and 293wtq level 3 for $1789 puts down258whp and 305wtq ,this is just to put the cost into prospective .Chico.(Pops)