wow those kits are ridiculously overpriced...

that's like $300 for 5hp abd 5ft/lps...

Well Ed's gonna ship the stuff on Monday for me. He was towing I think he said 3 cars to Pinks: All Out when I talked to him.

Filling those silencer slots sounds like fun! I'm going to have the hard parts sittings around for a little while so I wanna try and do all the little DIY things to make the stuff more efficient.

nice, you're on the way man... still going VS cam or are you doing rockers?

Well actually, my dad gave me a nice bit of a raise.

Was making $417 a week and now I've got 2 checks with $550 sitting in my car right now.

I'm going to price out the XP build with springs and mod'd retainers.

Are springs hard to do? Or do you just have to press down on them and turn the retainer or something?

Oh and another thing. That ZZP engine gasket kit. That will have everything but head gaskets but there's a problem; do I get the L36 or the L67 set? Obviously I need the L67 for the LIM and S/C but are there other gaskets that won't match up? What gaskets from an L67 won't work for a top-swapped L36?

Get and $10 spring compressor. You just slip it over the spring and tighten down, then use a magnet to remove the two valve locks. Then the spring and retainer come off together. Do the opposite to install. Not a big deal, especially with the heads off. Otherwise you'll need a method to prevent the valve from plunging into the cylinder.

Be sure to get new valve seals while you're at it.

What are valve seals and where do they go?

XP! XP! XP!

If you're going to all this time and trouble, and spending all the money, and you've already got a DD, do it right. With an XP cam and at least a downpipe I would expect that you could run a 3.5" or 3.6" pulley with no knock. Get headers and make that a 3.4"

They're under the springs and go around the valve stems. They prevent oil on the upper part of your head from leaking into the combustion chamber. Believe me, you'll want to replace them, especially if you compare old to new.

Well I've got a 2.5" DP w/ cat so I'm going to stick with that and the stock 3.8" pulley.

So does a cam reduce KR? If so, does it help a lot or a little?

I'm going to go price stuff out on zzp right now and see what I'm looking at for everything but hard parts.

And are 105# springs ok with the stock timing chain set-up?

How does this look? That should be every single thing I need except the hard parts from Ed.



I know I will also need oil/filters along with coolant, S/C belt, and teflon tape.

However, will I also need S/C bolts or should Ed send those with it? How about the MAP sensor and Boost Bypass valve?

Oh and BTW...

I'm painting the blower green...

everything looks good on your order list. Except for if I were you I would get the #4 package for the cam install kit, both the cam and crank bolt are TTY and ideally should be replaced.

Ed sent me all the bolts necessary, along with the BBV and MAP sensor. I'm sure he'll get everything on there for ya.

Now to answer these questions...
1)You really should have at least a 3" D/P as the 2.5" will probably be a restriction with your engine flowing so much more air. I would try to sell that and pick up a 3" D/P

2)Cams are a huge help in reducing KR. Blower cams tend to have a pretty high exhaust duration and lift, which lets all that superheated air out of the combustion chamber better. Superhot exhaust = hotspots in the CC = predetonation (KR)

3)105# springs will work just fine with a stock timing chain and dampener

I changed to to the #4 kit and am going to e-mail zzp about the exact specifications for the PCM because their ZZP 1.0 options won't let me pick settings for a top-swap AND XP cam.

I'd like to fill the silencer slots but I REALLY don't want to have them welded. Is JB weld some kind of paste or seomthing that I can just put in there?

And I can paint the blower, right? With some high-temp green ceramic?

Yes, get the #4 kit. That's what I got. It also comes with a new dampener, you'll need it. Otherwise, at least get the dampener separate. Mine had a nice groove in the stock one on the 103k mile engine, and the XP cam will wear it even faster.