Looking at getting to work next week. Wish me luck!

Sometimes we learn from the mistakes we've made... besides, only they sell the XP cam and fixed Pacesetters at the time. Right now, I think I'll go with Mike for the rest of my junk.

Rook is right they do'nt seem to give two sh-ts what you've spent just another sucker.Chico(Pops)

well... I've had nothing but great customer service, helpful staff, lightning fast shipping, and excellent product so I will most certainly continue to buy from them. I'm not trying to convince you guys to like ZZP, go ahead, buy wherever you like.

After all the stuff I went through during the turbo kit order and all the changes, they were always responding next day with the answers to all my questions.

I haven't heard anything bad about ZZP yet. Maybe somebody has but I haven't. But I've heard some stuff about other places as well.

ZZP shipped my stuff yesterday and theh UPS guy is already out for delivery today...

Lightning fast is right.

But I don't know if I can wait around for the package or not. I need to go back to work.

I think I'll call my friend and have him stay at my house for a while til it comes.

Nice! It's coming together very quickly!

I'm looking at pulling stuff off tomorrow, possibly draining fluids and a little disconnecting tonight.

I'll need to print up all the guides and suggestions from everything and I'll be set.

Hey drummer, my ZZP PCM says GT PCM top swap on it and I made a comment when I ordered it that I also needed the XP cam tables. If I don't have those tables, will I know immediately? Or am I just going to notice lots of lost power or something?

It'll just be running rich as heck if you're not tuned for the cam. You won't be seeing the full potential of your setup without a properly tuned PCM.

Before I got my car tuned I was running 980+ O2's. Normal is 900-940 from what I understand.

Alrighty, here's today's work update!

I only got about 3 hours of work in today but here's what I got accomplished,

All mating surfaces (- heads) cleaned with scouring pads
Blower outlet slighty ported, mostly smoothed out
Blower rotors and case cleaned of EGR crap (yuk!)
S/C oil emptied (smells like butt) and replaced with new
Throttle body bolted up to S/C w/ new rubber coolant resisting gasket
Old springs and valve seals removed
Valves wire brushed clean
Valves replaced with new valve seals

Removing the springs was easy, I just used a 5/8 socket on the retainer, put a rag onto the socket and just stood on it and bounced a few times until the locks fell off. I'm sure it's not the *proper* way to do it but it worked.

Now I have to figure out how to get the ******* back on. Are spring compressors a parts store rental item?

After that I think I can start pullin crap. I'm getting up around 7:30 tomorrow and working all day and doing as much as humanly possible.

I think I'm going to put my car up on 4 ramps. I'll use a jack to lift the car and just slide the ramps under the tires. I'll face the ramps like this

(o--car--o}
I""\......./""I

No rolling. No jackstands. Almost like a lift...only not 4 feet in the air...

Once I need to do the cam and balancer, I may have to drop the car and use a jackstand but we'll see.

Wish me luck guys?

Yah, I would do more porting while stuff is apart. But good luck, hope you got lots of pics because .

So are you not pulling the motor after all? If you're dropping the cradle for your cam install you will have to have it up on jackstands. Because you will have to take off the pass. tire, disconnect the strut assy, and loosen the two driver's side cradle bolts, and with a jack in place under the pass. side cradle, completely remove those two cradle bolts. Then slowly let your jack down to lower the engine cradle exposing the timing cover. Be very careful though, you don't want to lower it too far because your steering linkage can pop loose.



EDIT- found this pic for you and thought you might be interested to see it. The bottom gear is what's connected to the crankshaft, and the top is the cam gear. First remove the timing chain dampener, then to remove the cam gear, you will need the 1-1/8 impact socket. Once the bolt is out, you can slowly remove the cam gear and the timing chain. After that, you'll halfta remove the 'thrust plate' that I mentioned earlier. Then, thread the cam bolt back into the end of the cam and use that to slowly pull the cam out.

Here are some pics from when I tore down an engine... Might give you some insight on how things go.

Engine Tear Down

Oh yeah, be careful when taking the cam out... You don't want to dislodge a bearing.

man great pix, im glad u know what you're doing, i would prolly be clueless on what i was taking apart, herc or somebody should save the post or put it in the FAQ's for how to take apart the engine. That is a lot of shots

nice, that's not your motor is it? Stage 3 blower cam? very nice pics indeed