Cycle the key 2-3 times to build some fuel pressure at the rail. you'll need to continue to burp the coolant afterwards. Lube the injector o-rings with vaseline.

That's all I can think of right now.

Good luck.

You'll want to change your oil after 500 miles or so of driving it.

Ok got her running runs kinda rough low coolant light flashing, ses light flashing,
overheated first start up, I did open bleeder screw when first started and waited for coolant to come out, replaced water pump, doesn't over heat anymore, but low coolant light still flashes, both radiator and reservoir full.
Brought car to az and had it scanned, came up #4 misfire, swapped coils(new one swapped back to known good used one) still flashing ses, maybe injector.

most of time I get in turn ign. and get nothing 10-20 turns and then it will kick in and start, anyway to disable ani-theft system, car did sit since feb last year with heads in shop due to back injury.
Vids sorry so dark daughter got in late.

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk9/m...nt=P1170179.mp4

http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk9/m...nt=P1170180.mp4

For the no start issue I'm not so sure that is a Security issue, check your wires on the starter solenoid and also check your battery voltage. Make sure the solenoid wires on the starter and tight and clean. When you cycle the key to the ON position, do you hear the fuel pump prime?

The low coolant light could be that it is low on coolant, what I usually do is just keep topping it up every time it cools down after I've driven it until it's topped up. The sensor could be bad or could also be gummed up. I'm not sure what initially went wrong with the motor you have in the car now but when oil mixes with the coolant it can gum up the sensor and stop it from working correctly. You can try taking it out of the rad and clean it up, it's on the passenger side about 1/3 of the way down, it's a square sensor.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? What headgaskets did you use? Do you have a vacuum gauge you could use to check what it is pulling?

Reset cp every tine:
1. Swapped coils nothing still flashing ses, tried a couple few coils.
2. Grabed last # 2 plug wire, swapped with #4 new plug wire, still flashing ses.
3. Went in back where car was parked for a year and worked on, searched for 10 min. wallla found New COIL gasket in bushes still in bag of coarse. Used a used one after loosing new one, Put new GASKET on 1 & 4 coil.

Wow so far just a service engine soon light (not flashing anymore), and low coolant light. I would never imagined that little gasket made the difference, I also unplugged the ICM harness and blew out the contacts. At least now I can drive to work and back.
Spray carb cleaner on contact point's on intake's, tb, inj and vac lines I can't find where the air is entering, assuming that's the ses light now. will get it scanned again tomorrow. And last but not least where is the low coolant sensor, probably have to pull the air breather box.
Thanks again

Edit: went to go to the store this morning and no ses light, went off after a block, hestates here and there, maybe moisture got in tank, tank was on E the whole year, so I will add inj. cleaner and heat to remove any moisture.
Thanks for pointing out the coolant sensor. I thought it would be on reservoir, every time I checked level it was at the top on Radiator and reservoir, I will clean after work todAY.

The sensor is on the passenger side of the rad, right below the rad cap basically.

cool thanks took car on a road trip 70miles round trip, to see if the cp would recognize any faults but nope low coolant light still on, will clean sensor today/or replace, my hud keeps going off and on mainly when I turn on the blower fan,(HUD turns off) is that a common prob? replace blower fan switch or hud? And darn I smell oil burning or something when I get out of car, checked under front valve cover, dry, have to check rear today I did lose one front exhaust mani bolt, maybe smell is coming from there, and the hg kit only came with one exhaust donut, I think went in between the rear mani and the middle pipe(only place I seen a exhaust donut. kit did not have the metal flang between rear exhaust and downpipe, will replace the flange, 1 missing exhaust bolt, and take off middle pipe and double check, make sure it isn't metal to metal on one of the contacts, looked like one end (middle pipe or front exhaust)was shaped to fit in the middle piece with no gasket.
Thanks for all the help.
Mario

The HUD issue is a bad solder joint some where. It's been a while since I've had to think about it but there is a thread on here dealing with that issue.

The HUD going off when blower fan is turned on or other electronic devices acting up like that are 99% of the time caused by the ignition switch. You can clean the contacts inside of it or replace the ignition switch or you can search up Jaybur's switch saver mod I think it was if you are handy with electronics.

Thanks gentlemen I am searching for ignition switch fix links, and get that fixed, I have to tab the car so all I got is 3 day permits, and can't see it cause rear defrost doesn't work when hud is working or blower fan is on(one of them.

You know I can't find jaybur's fix or anyother, I remember seeing in a fix a while back You needed a certain sized t? star socket, I am pretty good with electronics just want to make sure I have that socket before I start,
Thanks

I have a feeling that it didn't make it over when the forum was upgraded because I can't find it either. It might be on CGP somewhere I'll have a look.

I think this is a better fix anyway as opposed to his workaround.

Ignition Switch repair

that link did not work do you know if this is the switch for my 97 grand prix se
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/2/655874-pontiac-ignition-starter-switch-by-bwd-part-cs605.html

thats the one i ordered from oriellies, I guese there were two types, column shift and console shift, that one was for console shift.

Anyone got step by step ign.switch removal, this dang hanes dosnt say anything.
thanks

I will just start unbolting this and that, got a t-torx set, got home found out I needed a e-torx set, e-5 which I can't find anywhere, found a e-4, which undoes one of the nuts, hopefully the post I read was for an e-4 torx and not an e-5 torx, but you know murphy's law, got a have them all, stupid oriellies didn't have any e-torx and az had e4 single and a set with e-6 on up.
Definatly a switch prob though, I have the lower column plate off with the black box exposed, if I tap on it with ignition on start it will start up. I bought a new switch, will replace and tare old one apart to expirience cleaning the contact point's.

well tried to go around pullung steering wheel and went under top plate got a allen wrench down the hole to release the key cylinder(key in on/run position}but couldn't get the leverage or find the spot to push to release the key cylinder, slowly turned key, but could not hit the spot,tried different size allen's, I give up for the night. if I tap on the switch box I can get car to start,wished I could get that box apart on vehicle to clean contacts.
looks like steering wheel is coming off, I am forgetting something, I will get it tomorrow. going to find a better fsm also.