I just replaced the fuel pump relay again last week. I put a new one in back in '04 when I replaced the fuel pump, stashed the original one in the glove box as a spare. (My GT only has one relay and no resistor)
The relay would click on to prime the pump, then the engine would crank over and not run. Swapped in the old relay, and the car started right up. So now I have a couple of spare relays in the glove box..

Hi DaTT,

Those resistors were a high failure item on GTPs, so if the car no longer stalls, you've found the gremlin. If memory serves GM has a resistor relocation kit, and there's also an aftermarket wiring harness that bypasses the resistor: Caspers Electronics Fuel Pump Hotwire Kit

Or you can just leave the tab 85 bent out and not worry about it. And it's the resistor that goes bad not the relay. Well 99.9% of the time.

Problem not fixed.

Found the fuel pressure regulator and unplugged the vacuum line while it was running to see if that was it...nope, didn't stall.

What about fuel pump? I am going to get a pressure gauge tomorrow and test it. I have never done this before, so I assume it goes into the spot on one of the rails that has a black cap on it. Does it just screw in? Any precautions I should know about? Just screw it in and let it run and monitor fuel pressure?

Thanks

So it stalled again?

It won't necessarily stall with the vacuum line pulled off the regulator so I'm not sure what you were testing there.

I guess I was just trying to duplicate the problem. I am leaning towards fuel pump at this time.

What pressure should I be seeing for this engine?

For fuel pressure

http://www.grandprix.net/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=107183&page=2

Thanks. I assume the pressure should be the same with the engine running? I am also going to test the regulator, there is no fuel leaking from the line, is it still possible for it to be bad?

Checked pressure. Here is what I got:

****Fuel resistor bypassed to run in high speed mode***

-Key on engine off = 46psi, sometimes 42psi (did several tests)
-Engine running = 50psi, sometimes 46, sometimes 42

Pressure would jump when throttle was applied, I assume that is normal.

-While engine was running, I d/c'ed the vacuum line for the regulator and the pressure jumped up by 2psi the first time. Repeated the test and it jumped up by 10psi (normal).

CE light had come on and I got the MAF code.

Cleared the code and used some Sensor Kleen MAF cleaner, re-installed and it seems to be fine now. But I doubt it is fine.

Car stalled and I noticed the TCS OFF light came on. I can not be certain if this happened before because I never looked up there.

Could be a faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor, here's a write up: Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

So, I lost tach and TCS OFF light came on. Thought the car had stalled so I turned the key only to hear that nasty grinding noise.

So, is the CPS the only thing would cause loss of tach and TCS light on? Also, would it throw a MAF (P0102) code? Also, would it cause the car to buck violently under throttle....this only happens sometimes.

Thanks for the link....any idea on how long it takes to complete?

Tach going crazy/dieing sounds like the CPS. As for the TCS light these cars are very sensative to wierd power. With the car stalling etc it could cause power drains and surges and throws things for a loop.

But the more I think of it with multiple unrealted issues leads me to the ignition switch.

The GM dealer near me....I spoke to one of their Diagnosers (word?) and he also said ignition switch. He told me to start the car and smack the key around to try and get it to stall. I did this and could not get it to stall.

This car is starting to remind of my 1990 Thunderbird SC.

The part of the switch that fails is the electrical component not the key cylinder.