Hello All,
I need to pick everyones brain. I just drove 30 miles, made a quick stop 1 mile from my house, then parked it for 1 hr. I came out to leave, and car would not fully start. Everything is turning over, and when i pressed on gas, it barely ran, smelled bad, and entire car was shaking. When I let off gas, it died. A few hours later I tried again, and now it just wont start, no matter what I do. Please help with ideas to start trouble shooting. I have 155k, and have never changed the fuel pump, can it be? how can I tell?
Any fuses, I can check?

Thanks

fuel filter, fuel pump resistor, clogged injectors, water in the fuel, fuel pump?

I tried to do a search for how to check fuel pump res. and relay. I couldnt find. Can someone point please point me in right direction. I am praying it isnt the fuel pump. If it is what is the cheapest one that is reliabale and I believe I have to drop the tank correct?

Thanks in advance...

That should fix it.

Assuming he has a GTP, didn't see him say.

His profile says 97 GTP.

Thanks for the pic, on the Fuel Pump Resistor. I will try that. If the pump is not putting out enough, and I bend the tab, will it help out? If i turn the key and dont hear the pump running then i will prob. need a new one??? Is this a correct assumption? Anymore data is greatly appreciated!
Also is there some fuel pump resistor issue, I remember reading years ago, or is the tab bend what I read about?
I appreciate all your help, guys, recently got big D, and not alot of $ to repair...Yes I do have GTP..
Thanks in Advance to u All!

Bending the tab by passes the resistor. If that doesn't work and you don't here the pump prime before starting check all the fuses and the actual fuel pump relay before buying a new pump.

And iirc the fuel pump relay is one of those 3604s. If so swap that relay with another of the same type. If you still don't get the pump to prime and all the fuses are good then it is a pump issue.

The fuel pump relay (#14) is next to the fuel pump speed relay:



If it turns out you need to replace the fuel pump, here's a write up: Fuel pump install '97-'03
Always start with the small stuff, like fuses and relays first.

Thanks guys for all your help. I will start toying around with this on Fri / Sat and let you know.....

Question for Herc, you mention the 3404 relay to swap around. It looks like they are 10, 11 and 12.. I see nothing about the fuel pump on item list above. Is it the ignition one you are referring to #11?
From what I see 14 & 15 are fuel that i will check?

How can I check relay , with ohmeter?

Thanks Keith

I was going from memory on the relay numbers. My truck uses those big ones.

But if the tab trick doesn't work swap 14 and 15 and see if the fuel pump will prime. Those are the same relays and are interchangable. Also 32 is the fuse for the fuel pump circuit.

Ok all, Not good. I swapped up 14 & 15. Heard nothing pumping when turned the key in the gas tank. I them tried the bent pin approach and nothing. It looks like my fuel pump is shot. Now A few years back my car died and I took it to my mechanic, and he just said he fixed a wire back in the sending unit and charged my $75. I do trust him, but I know he will charge me about $600 to change it up. So I know for sure its the fuel pump, I was thinking , can I remove the fuel filter and see when i turn the car on it pumps out first? Then knowing if no gas comes through, I can go and tackle changing up the pump. I am very mechanically inclined, i used to repair aircraft actuators, so I know I can do. And I also read to remove the seat to get at pump access panel. Well give me some insight, I do have another car I can drive so I can take my time to repair this. I also have a junkyard nearby that has fuel pumps on ebay used for 80-90 bucks. What do you guys think?
Thanks for all your help in advanced!

When I worked at the repair shop, if a car was towed in with a bad fuel pump, I would turn the ignition key on, and give the fuel tank a couple of whacks with a rubber mallet. This would usually get the pump running long enough to put the car on a lift.

Give that a try first, if the pump starts running again it's time for a new one.

If your gonna change the pump I'd highly recommend forgoing a JY pump and buying a new one.

Just to double check did you check the fuse 32 and BOTH ignition fuses?

Thanks for the advice. I will try fuse 32, 11, and 5 tomorrow...Are airtex Fuel pumps any good? I found them on line for about $150...Or i will try to get discount at Advanced on new one..
One last thing if i pull the fuel filter and turn the key and nothing, i know for sure its the fuel pump, or is that not recommended?

There is no need to pull the filter. In the engine bay under plastic cap on the fuel line is a port. Turn the key on remove the cap put a rag over the port and push the center pin in with a screwdriver or something. If the pump is on fuel will come out. If not you may get a slight trickle and stop or nothing at all.

Airtex fuel pumps are garbage...use that if you want to get rid of the car in less than a year. The Bosch pumps are about the best for the money, and generally will have a lifetime warranty if anything does go wrong.

One last thing for now, Is there any instructions on how to remove back seat anyplace? A few years ago, I bought some new speakers that I also need to put in. I m going to kill two birds with one stone here!
Again thanks for everyones help.

Here's a write up with pics on upgrading to newer seats: 97-03 Seat Upgrade to 05+

Ok I got the lock ring off the fuel pump, but I cant get the lines off them. I am afraid of damaging. Can you give me some advice?

You need the special tool. It's called a fuel line disconnect tool. They're like $10 at the parts store.

herc i have a tool thats a cross with 3/8 on one side and 5/16 on other. I cannot get one line off. Will this tool work or do i need another. I cannot get the sleeve in under the plastic pieces..What a pain the ass! 3 hrs so far!!! Now my pump is logged free and I thinking about cutting the plastic nozzles pieces off...

If you're talking about the clips as seen in this pic below, I usually squeeze those clips with a small needlenose pliers and pull the lines off:












You'll need to transfer those over to the new pump, so be careful.

I finally got it!!! Now I have to go and get pump. I am praying this is the problem!!!!my dilema is ac delco fro $38, New one off internet Airtex for $230 , or used AC delco from JY in great shape for $105?

Hmmm I may think about this over weekend...I apreciate everyones help. I couldnt have not done it without this website and people! thanks again!

quick question, I have pump out and B & C pins are power. Can I apply 12 volts to see if pump comes on? Is there any write ups about this?

Here's a wiring diagram:



Apply 12 volts to the grey wire.

I put 12 V from the battery to pins B & C, and the pump didnt come on. I know A & D is for the gas gauge readout, so it looks like pump was definatly bad. I will have to wait until next week to get new pump. So the suspense will be killing me....LOL

I always replace the fuel filter when replacing the pump, it's cheap insurance.

Because pump didnt turn on, when I applied 12 v (pins B&C) from car battery directly, I can safely say its dead correct,and this is 100% the problem? I am asking since I may buy pump online today. Also at Napa I was told if I submerge it in gas, there is not way i can return it. Is this right? Just wondering???

Thanks all

I bought the pump for my truck at Pep boys. Turns out there was two different pumps. I didn't realize it until I had the pump in and went to hook up the electrical components. I removed the pump and took it back to Pep boys no questions asked. They didn't care as long as there was no fuel dripping from it. Napa may have a different return policy.

Guys i need a little help. I called Na*a and they said it would be $380 for Fuel pump, not sure if Delco or Delphi. They said they needed to know my Vin last 6 digits , and I said it was 202xxx, and code is WFL. I found a Delphi on on ebay for $170, and says it will fit GTP, part FG0075.
My question is Delphi a good one, and whats better AC Delco or Delphi? i need help in determining which one is the one compatiable for the WFL?

Thanks in Advance

Whats OEM in the car, mine doesnt say, is it AC DELCO, or Delphi?

As long as it isn't a no name chinease pump I'd use either the Delphi or AC Delco. I'd imagine Delphi is the OEM since GM owned Delphi back when these cars were made.

I'd go with either AC Delco or Delphi, as for the WFL code Rock Auto shows one AC Delco number for both WFL (1st design) and WFP (2nd design), MU1783. Searched that number on Ebay and found this: NEW ORIGINAL AC DELCO FUEL PUMP KIT

Not the complete module, but not a bad price either..

Hope that helps!

Well i just bought a Delphi off ebay, but called and talk to VP Parts Wharehouse. There was some cross referencing, and he asked for Vin 1 digit so I felt comfortable. It is $170 total for a brand new one. It is shipping today i was told from Indiana , hopefully have by Wednesday. It is Delphi FG0075..I am keeping my fingers crossed, seems to good to be true!

Sounds like you got a good deal, Rock Auto has that same Delphi unit for $269.79. Let us know how it works out!

Ok i got the right pump! It matches and i tried it with 12 v, and it runs..I will give you all the place i bought it for $170 OEM new after i get it in. I cannot get it to seat right with the oring in. I can without oring, but OMG i cannot generate enough force to press. Do i need to make up some ratching tool to press in? Please help. I am using alcohol for oring lube...

Thanks in advance!

Use petroleum jelly for the oring lube. That's what we lubed o-ringss with on the airplanes.

thanks Herc! I dont have any P Jelly, but maybe a little KY! LOL Is it just a matter of pushing really hard, or was there a tool call out for it?

This is from the write up I gave you earlier:

(Quote)I still had problems getting the pump all the way down. I guess the problem was compressing the O ring. I got my son to push down on the pump with the back of a hammer and put pressure on it and I moved the snap ring around and got it into place. I had him put minimum pressure on it because the pump is made out of plastic and expensive. The snap ring has to be exactly in place because it will only fit one way. There is a little lip it has to clear. Look at the old one before you take it off.
I then took the old clear clips off the old pump and installed them on the new one. Look at them before you take them off. They only go on one way. I then attached the 3 fuel lines and the electrical connection.

I hooked up the battery, tightened the fuel cap and turned the key to run a couple of times and let the fuel system pressurize. I started the engine and it ran. I checked for leaks and everything seemed good. I put everything back together and told my son to test drive it and fill it up with gas.

He called from the gas station and said gas was flowing out of the bottom of the car. He drove it home and I took out the back seat bottom and top. I took off the inspection cover and the top of the pump was wet with gas. It appears that the O ring must have gotten pinched and did not seal. Next step is to take it back off. Problem is tank is now full of gas. I dried the top of the pump off and drove the car about 20 miles. The top of the fuel pump is still dry but the sun has set and it is now dark. I will drive it again today when I get home from work and try to burn off more gas. Service manual said to have less than ¼ tank of gas in fuel tank.

I will take the pump off again and this time I will lubricate the O ring with Vaseline (I read somewhere that it helped). I will try to reinstall the pump with the O ring already on the pump. My legs are still sore from lying in the trunk. Wish me luck.(/Quote)

So you have to lube it up before you push it in or it might leak..

Petroleum Jelly is Vaseline

yep, being Navy and all, you'd know ALL about that, huh? LOL, jk, Herc!

Like I said it's what we used on the fuel systems on the AIRPLANE you bolo

I'm sure SOMETHING was being fueled up...on the airplane. "get ready for the boom, CPT Marvelouthh!" LOL, man! yall Squids make it TOO easy, man! LOL

Interesting, though, that a Squid knows the term Bolo...you've been spying again, haven't you?

Better watch yourself or I'll send you to Charlie's Chicken Farm!!

LMAO!!! you HAD to bring that up! yeah, funny, wasn't it? LOL. silly how yall seem to THINK we actually use that term. For us: it's called either jail or prison.

Success ! Success! The Petro Jelly worked great. It went right in almost too easy... I did have one problem as the connector harness fell down next to the tank, and I had to jack the car up and fish it through. I want to thank this site and everyone for there help in me saving at least $500. I bought the one from VPpartswharehouse on e*ay for $170 including shipping. It took two days coming from Indiana. It is based in atlanta and a guy named Ed took great car of things. Just in case here is e*ay # 270741161001. Anyways thanks to this site and all its members. You all rock!

I'm glad you were able to get useful information and such, and thanks for posting the update!