Ok, i read several posts on this, but i dont know where to start. I just came back from a deployment and the car just hasnt been running right. It will run like a scalded dog for a few miles, then start to sputter and then die. No check engine lights or anything notably strange other than just giving up on me. The first time i noticed it, it just sputtered, but stayed alive. the next time (a few days later) it died and would not start back. It would turn over and sputter a few times but not start. After it sat for a few hours i went back and it fired right up and drove home non problems. Today it did it again and it seems to be at about the same driving time of about 15 minutes. Same thing, but i havent been able to get back to it to see if it will start. gut feeling says it acted like its not getting fuel so i bent the number 58 tab on the relay after the first time. Didnt help any. It had a new MAf and fuel filter on it about a year or so ago, so im not feeling like it will be one of those. May drop a fuel filter just for sh*ts and giggles, but im not sure that will be it. What will a fuel pump act like when its going? Will it run for a bit and maybe heat up and finally give up. Any other thought or things to look at??

Thanks
Todd

I would wonder about a crank position sensor or even an ignition module with what you've already done. Does the tach drop out before it dies?

The tach follows the engine as it is trying to stay alive. it bounces up and down as it dies, but doesnt just drop out until the car dies completely. I thought that if the CPS was going it would throw a code, im not getting any codes. I guess the next time it does it i can try to unplug the MAf, dont really remember if i tried that the last time or not. Im stumped. Guess ill gust take it to the mechanic and see if he can figure it out. I dont really feel like messing with trying to start dropping parts at it until i figure it out. Just though i would see if you guys could steer me in a direction before taking it to the shop. What all is involved in changing the CPS? Lot of work or something simple?

Thanks

Here's a write up: Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

I've heard of CPS going bad and not setting the light.

Check for codes even if the light isn't on. Sometimes there will be soft codes in the system. And those will steer you in a good direction.

I had the guys at Autozone run it the other day when it was just acting up but running and the only code that was showing was P0402 (or something like that) that had to do with low catalyst something or other from when i put the zzp cat on there. Thats ones been onthere a while. He cleared that one and said nothing else was showing.

I am showing the TCS OFF and ABS light, but i think that from an ABS sensor. Those lights have been on for about a yr or so now.

I went back this afternoon to pick up the car and other than the battery being almost dead for some reason, it fired right up and made the 5 mile or so drive home no problem. Im stumped.

Thanks for the CPS link, Ill take a look at the write up and take ir from there.

Oh, the one odd thing that i did notice today was that the top cover to the MAF had seperated from teh body of the part. it has seperated to the point that the fron was raised nearly 1/4". i picked at it and it just popped right off showing the circuitry underneath. Ill try to get it to act up again and pull the plug to it and see what happens

Doesn't sound like the CPS. It does sound like the MAF, though.

Yep. Obvious physical damage to the MAF would lead me to change that first.

I just put that MAF on there in April of last year. I drove it around the neighborhood today till it did it again and pulled the plug on the MAF and it still had a very hard time running but stayed running. after a few minutes it did finally die, but started right up. I pulled the MAF off completely to look at it and it looks brand new inside, no carbon buildup or anything. I popped it right back on and it ran for a solid hour afterward. Im starting to lean very heavily to that being the problem. Guess ill be making a trip to Autozone again tomorrow.

they make some MAF cleaner that you can spray on it to see if that helps you out at all. don't know if that will help you or not?

I doubt it's because it's dirty. He said the body of the MAF is broken and the circuitry inside is exposed.

I don't know about you but I'd swap that part before I try anything else.

Ok, so now im wondering if it was somehow related to the battery. The other day my little boy was playing around in there and i guess turned the key forward (or maybe i left it forward after rolling the windows up)causing the battery to run completely down. So far, in fact, that i couldnt even get the key back out of the ignition until i put jumper cables on it. Jumped it and it started ok. turned it off and it would barely even turn over so i put my charger on it. Took it for a ride a few days later and thats when it stopped the second time. (may have already mentioned the battery thing, I didnt read back thru) Battery barely had enough to start it that time as well so i put it on my charger again. Next time it wouldnt even turn over it was so weak so i put it on a friends charger that automatically detects battery voltage. It was reading only 6 volts. Took it to Autozone and had them test/charge it and they said it was bad. Picked up a new battery and MAF, not a reman so i wouldnt have to turn in my old one for a core charge, and took it from there. I put the battery in, but did not want to change the MAF until the car started acting up, just to ensure myself that is what the problelm is (still not completely convinced). took it for a 30ish mile hard drive and it ran like a raped ape the entire way with no hint of stalling. So, I am wondering now if the battery wasnt somehow involved in this mess. Either way, im gonna keep the new MAF in the console in the event it starts acting up again. I never noticed the battery light coming on thru any of this, i would assume it would pop on if it were pulling low voltage. I dunno!!

I would check the altenater... good way to check if the alt is charging the system is to:
start the car... turn everything on (lights, ac, radio, etc.) Then with a volt meter check the battery terminals... should read 14 volts or higher.... if it doesnt, bad alt.
May be running good now because you have a fresh battery.... doensnt mean its charging.

Good idea, never really gave alternator any thought. ill put it on a meter and see what happens.

Thanks

I put another 100 or so miles on the car with no problem until today. I drove it the 35 miles to work no problem at all. After i was there for a couple hours, I had one of the guys go out to test to make sure the alternator was charging correctly and it would not start. just turn over and try real hard, but no beans. So i swapped out the old MAF with the new one, not a reman, but new one, and it fired right up. So it looks like the winner was the MAF. I sort of had a hunch after i saw the top peeling off like that, well that and the expert advice give here. Sucks because i just put that one on there in April of last year and the car sat for 6 months while i was deplyed so it was practically brand new. Guess i got a lemon. Anyway, ill give it a few more miles and see what happens. Oh, and the Alternator was putting out 13.98V by the way.

Thanks