I am having a problem with my 02 GP. When I turn right I hear a single loud thunk. Sometimes I "think" I feel a slight vibration in the steering as well. I also get a less loud thunk when I go over a bump. Any suggestions as to the most likely culprit? I thought to check the ball joints, but ALLdatadiy says I need a dial indicator to do this and I don't have one. Any other method to check them? Thanks for any help. I did a search and did not find another post like this one.

Upper front strut mount.

To prove it you can have someone turn the wheel while the car is parked and you should hear the thunk up top with the hood open.

New mounts are fairly cheap but can be a pain to change if you don't have a spring compressor. Sometimes a quick strut is the easiest way to go since you get a new strut and spring however they are a little more pricey than just a mount.


Also for future reference, to check for a bad ball joint, jack up the car and hold the tire at 12 o clock and at 6 o clock and push/pull to check for play. If there is excessive play then it's likely the ball joint. If someone else is moving the tire you can get under the car and see if the ball joint is moving. Make sure it's this and not the wheel bearing since a bad wheel bearing will have play in any direction.

To check for a bad tie rod you can jack the car up, hold the tire at the 9 o clock and the 3 o clock spot. Push/pull again and if there is play it's likely the tie rod. Again, make sure it's not a wheel bearing.

To check for a bad wheel bearing you can hold the tire at any 2 spots and push/pull again. If there is play it could be the bearing. Bad bearings are usually found when they start to get noisy.

If it is a ball joint, it is much easier to change the whole A-arm. I did both A-arms in less than 2 hours in my driveway with hand tools. check www.rockauto.com for best prices A Moog or Raybestos ball joint is $43. A raybestos a-arm is $58.

And that comes with a new ball joint?

Yes, they come with ball joints.

I always recommend changing the whole arm when either the front bushing is ripped or the ball joint is bad.

So much easier than having a new bushing pushed in or having to drill out the riveted ball joint.

It's well worth the price difference.

I installed new W-body.com a-arms a few years ago. They lasted a little over 3 yrs and 45,000 miles before I heard a popping and saw both ball joint boots were trashed. I sprayed with lube and milked them for a few weeks until it warmed up. I would not recommend them to anyone. My raybestos ones came with grease fittings as a plus.

Thanks for the information guys. I haven't had time to do much with it yet, but will post an update when I do.