Just put the new boost actuator on a little bit ago and noticed that the holes where it mounted to were bigger than the bolts, maybe so that you could adjust it, but I just basically put it back where the old one looked to be.

The car seemed like it did do better with the new actuator replaced but now I have noticed that the car is not building full boost on the DIC. I know that it used to build full boost when the car was newer and it seemed like it did when the old part was on there but that could be because it was not working.

Anyways, should I be getting full boost though on the readout, does the bypass actuator have to be adjusted just right to be able to get full boost, and if so, what do I need to do to adjust it.

Thanks!

Just to let you guys no how to test your solenoid, your boost actuator(some call it a valve) will have two ports on it, a top one and a lower one. Remove the hose connected to the lower port of the actuator(this hose goes to your boost solenoid).

Take a golf tee or whatever you have and plug the end of the rubber hose up and test drive it. Since I knew my actuator was brand new, it had to be something else and it turned out the solenoid was bad. Had full boost and seemed like the car had some more power.

Steve, from ZZPerformance is the one that helped me out with this and told me what to do. He also said you could drive it a few days and if your fuel mileage did not drop, then you didn't have to buy a solenoid but we just went ahead and bought one. Picked one up from RockAuto for $30 shipped I think.

Hope this helps someone since I really had no luck in finding a way to test it on the net!