Hi all i am wondering if the 3.2 pulley on jvojr,s 2003 GP made any knock or did he have to change the thermostat to stop it?I,asking because i have a 2003 also and i have a 3.4 and no knock and stock thermostat i am running about 170 DE.i wought like to no if i can go with a 3.2 with out any problem or do i have to change my thermostat to 160. thank you all

Jvojr is also running alot of other mods I think.

If all you have is a thermostat - then no I would not recommend you going down any smaller than 3.4"

Usually 3.2-3.25 will also require headers, exhaust, intake and maybe rockers or cam.

Otherwise the KR will be so much that it negates any benefit you might have gotten from going to a smaller pulley (say 3.4 -> 3.25).

Run the pulley, scan the car with a diagnostic tool, only way to be sure you won't blow the motor.

Oh and a 160 thermo may set an SES light. I usually recommend 180 as the lowest temp thermo for these cars.

Thank a lot for the help CHew i think i will stay with the 3.4 I already have a KN cone on and high flow cat with the u bend changed.

Mine throws an ses light with a 180 thermo once the weather starts getting around 40-50 deg.
Jeff

Sorry it took so long for my reply. Been working 11 hour days but the first thing I do when I come home is check here. I must say that every mod I did was based around the pulley. I went with the modular pulley so I would be able to switch to a 3.4 if I felt the 3.2 was too much. I have a gtech that I bought on ebay for $30. My best time on the gtech was 5.2 to 60 and 13.6 to the qtr. We'll see how acurate it is on April 4 when I go to track. All the engine mods cost $2400 including install. I have not had any problems so far. The car is very stock-like on the highway and city until you punch it. If you can live with the insane torque steer, there is nothing else that I would complain about. Now the unknown factor is the weather. It's currently in the twenties where I live. I do not know if the summer will affect my performance or KR once the temp gets above 80. We'll see. But I can just screw on the 3.4 in five minutes if I have to. I am waiting for the DHP to come out for the 03 in a week or two(according to them) and hoping to see a half second better(hoping) in the qtr. I'm also researching some really lightweight rims and drag radials for the front, just for the track. I've heard some people complain about the autolites fouling after a few thousand miles and that NGK's are better, but I haven't had any problems yet. Supposedly you can avoid fouling by punching it out a couple of times a day. I do. I hope I answered your questions.
Jack

Jack, how do you like the wizaired? did it make a big difference and did you have to buy the filter seperately?

Jeff

Really? I have a 180 thermo in mine, and my SES never goes on, even when it was in the 20's a little while ago. And the normal resting position for my car's temp, is halfway between 1/4 and 0 when on the freeway.

Yeah I think its because the car isnt warming up FAST enough. I remember one of the GM techs saying (after they scanned it) that the pcm wasnt seeing it warm up within a certain time frame so it throws a light. Doesnt happen all the time but once the ses light is tripped its on. On ZZPs website they now have a thing that you plug into the sensor that fixes this.

Thanks for the reply jovjr.Sounds like i better stay with the 3.4 works good.If you do not like the torque steer i think these will [url=helphttp://www.3800performance.com/vehicles/grand_prix_97_03_miva.htm][url=helphttp://www.3800performance.com/vehicles/grand_prix_97_03_miva.htm][url=helphttp://www.3800performance.com/vehicles/grand_prix_97_03_miva.htm]helphttp://www.3800performance.com/vehicles/grand_prix_97_03_miva.htm[/url][/url][/url]

Thrasher FWD Torque Arms

If you've got to "punch it" a couple times a day to keep the plugs from fouling, I'd say something isn't right. Autolite is the cheapest plug out there, besides maybe champion. Maybe try the AC's or NGK's (some of the AC's are now made by NGK) in the irridim style. If you've got a problem with preignition knock, maybe try a colder plug. Just my 2 cents...

The autolite 104s are one to two heat ranges cooler. However they are copper and tend too wear faster. You could go with platinum but the little bits of platinum on the anode and cathode do not disipate heat fast enough and create hot spots which causes knock defeats goin colder in the first place. Yes the autolites are cheap and at 1.96 a pair I can take a look at em every oil change.

You get what you pay for. Weren't we talking about stock ignition systems with someone else on here, Merc?

I had to buy the filter seperately. Got it on Ebay and saved 10 bucks from Jegs. I don't have anything to compare it to and since I did all the mods one time I can not say what each did individualy(sp?). Like I mentioned before, I have only heard about a fouling issue but have not yet experienced it. Not sure why THEY say to punch it to keep from fouling but I do anyway. I recommend the mods as a package and really should be offered by someone as such. I did save a 100 bucks and shipping by buying everything at once. Call Scott at intense and say you want the same thing and he will do the same deal. I could've saved more if I had them do the install and would've preferred it that way, but I am about a thousand miles away from them and so I could not. One last comment, I have not had any reason(yet) to think I would have done it any other way. I am not even dreaming of the intercooler anymore. Most people with them have complaints. Another booklong post by Jack.