Hi all,

I'm driving a 1999 Grand Prix GT Coupe with 44,000 and am going to start doing my own oil changes. With all of the different oils and oil filters out there, I'm asking what's been working for you guys as GP owners.

Thanks,
Matt

Since I bought my GP, I've been using Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30 and a Mobil 1 filter. The synthetic is a little more expensive, but I'll take the hit for the extra protection. I would definetly suggest Mobil products even if you don't go the synthetic route.

Thanks, I've heard that combo a lot. If I didn't choose synthetic, what type of oil and filter would be good? I see that Purolator Pure One's and AC Delco seem to be used a lot along with Castrol GTX and Mobil (not Mobil 1).

Matt

Regarding the oil filter, the AC Delco got high praise for construction, AND has more filtration area than many other similar sized filters. If you want longer filter life and less by-pass while the oil is cold and has trouble passing through the filter, don't use the "recommended" oil filter size, use a substitute with a longer can. AC PF-52 comes to mind. Compared to the "standard (shorter)" length Fram, the AC PF-52 has twice the filter area. Fram also has a longer can filter, but it has less filtration area than the AC.

Regarding oil, you can't go wrong using Mobile 1 synthetic, but you're probably wasting your money. After all, all oil has to do is keep moving parts from rubbing together. The grade of the oil (5-30, 10-30, 30Wt, 20-50, etc) is more important that is the brand (assuming you stick with the name brands). In Sandy Eggo, I run 10-30 from Nov thru Apr, and straight 30wt from May thru Oct. If I lived in a place that was colder, I'd stick with the 10-30 in the winter, but I'd use 15w-40 in the summer (itsa a tough multi-grade). If I lived where it was regularly 100F+ every day (and cooling down to 70F at night), I'd run a straight 40wt (gooooooooooood stuff).

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

Thank you for your advice. I'll be checking into the AC Delco filter next time around.

Matt

I'd recommend the stock filter. Put some faith in what the GM guys recommend - if it was bad for your engine, they wouldn't recommend it, I'm sure!

The stock filter being AC Delco? If so long or regular?

Thanks

Yes the AC Delco filter is the stock filter - the owners manual should give you the number. I can't remember what it is right now.

You can go with the longer one, that would give you more surface area to filter the oil, but it probably isn't necessary.

If you get AC Delco, try to get the UltraGaurdGold variety. Its the one in the black box. The blue box is the DuraGaurd gold. From a report I read earlier, the UltraGaurdGold is the same filter as the Mobile-1. Just a few bucks cheaper.

As for the part numbers, the standard length is UPF-47, the longer filter is UPF-52.

For oil, I've actually been doing a 50/50 mix of Castrol GTX 10w30 and Mobile-1 Synthetic. A long time ago, someone said this is better than using Dura-Blend. I guess you can call me a cheap skate, but I had to pay for those HID upgrades somehow.

There's really no reason to get anything other than the ACDelco PF-47. Anything else is a waste of money. Other than the peace of mind issue. But you're not hurting your engine by using the recommended oil filter.

Good thing they are the same price :p

Time to ressurect this thread.

I'm due for my first oil change, I was looking forward to putting Mobil 1 synthetic in it.

I live in an apartment so I can't change my oil by myself. I called a local oil change place and they wanted $69.99 for an oil change with Mobil 1. Is the oil THAT expensive? I was speechless when he told me it was that much.

I have been running amsoil oil for 2 oil changes. Each time after 6k the oil still comes out looking a very light beige. I would definetely look into amsoil.

www.amsoil.com

Oil has much more to do than keep stuff from rubbing around. It has to keep the engine clean, lubricate, cool, withstand extremly high pressures, form a film, keep dirt in suspension and neutralize acids. The oil itself does not wear out, the additive package does. Anyway I use mobil 1 and k&n filters. Ac Delco filters are just average, Fram is n.f.g(except racing filters), Bosch are pretty good, Mobil one are between bosch and k&n. I use Mobil 1 oil and k&n filters myself. That does make for an expensive oil change though. The really good oils are royal purple, mobil 1, and amsoil. Any part synthetic blend should do just nicely however,Castrol etc. Just remember as with all car parts you gets what you pay for. Oil that says "motor oil" on the label-caveat emptor.

Mobil 1 might be $8 a quart, but I could care less. I change my synthetic every 5,000 miles so the cost is differed a little from a regular oil change every 3,000 miles. I'll take the hit for the protection.

-Andrew

WOW....$8 a quart for Mobil 1! I pay less than $5.25 after shipping with amsoil and I easily go 6k with it.

I'm big on name brand. I don't know why. I'm paranoid I guess....

I figure if alot of off road racers use it by CHOICE. That is telling me alot on how good the product really is. Before I get the oil change (6k), the color of the oil is a light beige on my towel. How is mobil 1 on a 5k change interval?

I got this off the ZZPerformance sight.

Better Oil Changes for Your Grand Prix
When changing your oil filter use the filter made for a 4.3L Chevy. I used the one for my 98 Blazer but anything newer will work.

This filter is the same diameter and the same thread but is 1" longer than a stock 3.8L filter.

This gives you longer life and better oil filtration performance

It's about the same color, light beige....

Well i guess I will have to wait and see the LONG term effects on the engine to see if it is really worth the extra money and effort for the synthetic.

8 bucks for a quart of Mobile-1? Deng... Do you have a costco where you are? If I remember, I think I paid $27 for 6 quarts of Mobile-1 Synthetic, which comes to less than 5 bucks a quart.

I have a friend that lives in an apartment, and also can't change his own oil. However, he brings his own Mobile-1 oil and filter, and has jiffy lube do the work. I think they were pretty reasonable for the labor charges. You have any friends with a house? You could always bring a few beers whenever you need an oil change

Wow $8 for Mobil 1. That's nuts. Also $5.25 for Amsoil is nuts. I have heard it was something like $8-10 a quart.

$5.25 a quart for Amsoil nuts? I buy the 10w-30 formula. As a preferred customer i get one case for $52 before shipping. Shipping is $10 for a case and 2 filters. Not too bad of a price for a small membership fee of $10 every six months. I just buy a few cases at a time.

What weight of oil are you guys using out there?

10W-30

Would someone explain how the oil numbers work. I use 10W-30 because my mechanic (my dad) tells me to. What's the significance of the two numbers?

oil brands, wts.,and oil filters are like "CHILI"
everybody has there own recipe, here's mine. '97 GT w/ 125000. Mobil 1 10w-30 with either a mobil 1 201 filter or an AC PF-52 depending if I change it or the gas station does it. I change it every 6000 mis. I live in the NE were the temps in winter are 32* and lower, in the summer 90+. The oil press. is 60lbs @ 1800rpm @ op. temp. Thats my "CHILI' P'CHOP

3.1L motor valvoline max life 5w30, lucas heavy duty stabilizer 600ml and ac delco pf47. every 3000 miles oil change.over 200,000 and we are still rolling. it works.

I use Mobil 1 10/30 and just went 5,000+ miles with a PF52 and the oil was pretty much very dark brown/black when I drained it. (85-90% 75mph highway driving)

I live in MD where the temps in winter range between 15-40 deg F, anyone switch to 5/30 for winter driving? Manual reccomends it for temps below freezing but.....

Mobil 1 in stores in Maryland is about $5.00 a quart but at BJs wholesale club (like Costco, or Sams Club) its $24 for a 6 pack.

Wish the stores would sell something other than the regular AC filter. Duraguard or ultra guard would be nice.

Jeff

I'm a BJ's member and I never even thought of them for oil....thanks

-Andrew

the numbers for oil weights refer to a standardized Society of Automotive Engineers' specs where the first number refers to the flow during winter( less viscous ) and the second refers to a higher viscosity ( less flow )during hotter days. With 0W-30 oils there is a max temperature beyond which such low viscosity during hotter days might be detrimental to the engine. with Synthetic oils, which are more a plasticizer then a petroleum product, the molecules are smaller and more "durable" therefore for comparison purposes a 10W30 synthetic's lubrication capabilities are as 5w30 convential oil's.

Hey guys I have used Mobil one in every car I have owned, and Live by it. Expensive yes, but you can get the five quarts container at Wal-Mart for cheeper than any parts store. Also if you have Sam's club you can sometime find it there.
Nick

I've been staying with Mobil 1 mixed with a quart of Greased Lightning, filtered by an oversized K&N. I've never, ever had a problem with my car, and she drives like a dream.

When I change the oil every 3K, the oil almost doesn't look dirty like in some cars I've owned where it comes out black.

I also just got the tranny flushed and used some Lucas tranny additive and was pretty happy with the results

Been using Pennzoil 10w-30 Nov-Apr, and SAE-30 May-Oct. 98 3100 has 90K miles now. With 10w-30, engine uses 1+ quart between oil changes (approx 6000-7000 miles). With SAE-30, oil level drops less than 1/3 quart between changes. That tells me something about viscosity breakdown with multi-grade oils.

With 90K miles on car and mild Sandy Eggo winters (garaged car start temp never less than 55F - I doan need no stinkin multi-grade), I'm gonna switch to SAE-30 Nov-Apr and SAE-40 May-Oct from now on.

Filter will be long-can AC PF-52.

Run straight SAE-40 in my new air-cooled Intruder motorcycle year round. Occasionally ran SAE-50 Aircraft Oil (flashpoint 500F+) in my Virago motorcycle when making a trip where hot temps could be expected (low-sided the Virago a year ago trying to ride it like a Stearman, so it's outa the picture now).

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo

I use Purolator Pureone PL24011 for $5.99 at Pep boys. Mobil1 5W-30 SuperSyn oil.

Did you know that with synthetic oils you can often extend the time between changes? I know a guy with 150k on his GP GT who only changes his oil once every six months and his filter once every three months. He drives about 15k plus a year.
Just my .02,
Jeff

I drive 30k a year and I sure as hell do it every 5k. But this all goes back to me being anal retentive...

I use castrol syntec in our 03' Vibe GT and swear by it, going to put it in the GP aswell..

As I stated before I used to have a 1990 Mercury Cougar XR& 3.8SC, with about 135,000 on it and pushed, 300hp, 380 torque out back. All this was done on stock internal and the motor had never been appart since new until 121,987 miles rolled around and the #4 fire ring on the head gasket let go. I then found it to be a good time to pull the motor and do all new gaskets and sensors and anything else that needed or could need to be replaced. Since it had 35K on it it was running convensional Valvoline 10w30 every 2K. Then it was broken into Snythetic blend every 2K and then at 45K it went to full Mobil 1 every 3K. I have highly detailed pictures of the inside of the moror, after I pulled it at 121,987. THere is absolutly no wear on the motor what so ever, and the lifer valley looked brand new, with not even the slightest apperance of sludge or "valley rocks". I contribute this to the use of a good quality motor oil and proper maintence, especially Mobil 1.

As a pilot I know for a fact that oil has much more to do with the opperation of the motor than just keeping thing from rubbing. Further more, ask you ASE certified automotive Tech.

This sounds like a commercial.

Castrol GTX in all our cars, PF-52 oil filter in the '98 Grand Prix GT, oil changes every 3-5k miles......

welcome BlownPrix to the list...I'll bet it would have been fun running my TTA against your old Merc......I suspect you would have found it more challenging than that vette you left smoking on I-95...

Turbo Trans-Am's are awesome cars. Cal Hartline is currently building one in Melbourne right now that is bad-ass. I have 2 friends at school with a GN and a T-Type.The GN is hi-11's low-12's, and the T-Type is a Turbo Street Modified (TSM) car built by Hartline, that'll do high 9's.

I realized that after I typed it. Its like fuel too, everyone thinks that all fuels are alike. They're not, its all about the additives that the companies put in. You get what you pay for.