Man was I crushed when I took my ride out tonight for a scan and saw the same amount of KR after installing the 3" D/P as before. Actually there's even a little more, It peeked at almost 7' KR as apposed to 6' and it starts showing up around 2000 RPM's (Under WOT) whereas before it was 3000+

Edit! Here's the scans for those interested...

SCAN1 - Before D/P Install
SCAN2 - After D/P Install

Other things I notice about the Downpipe is that the car definately feels a little diff. Hard to explain exactly but more "rougher". I don't know if the car is any faster, it may be my imagination but it feels potentially slower now. I pinned it from a stand a barely spun the tires where before I could spin them for 3 blocks if I wanted (Granted I have new tires now which would have some contribution to that).

All in all, I don't know if it was worth the $375.00 Installed and I'm still stuck fighting the KR Issues. Not sure what to do next, if anything at all, live with it maybe?

Cheers All!

I'd say trade your GTP to me for my SE, no KR in the little 3100!!

Crap, that sucks.
I noticed improvement right off. I can't floor it wide open from a standing start anymore or I'll roast the tires. I have to gun it to half throttle and roll on to a full throttle.

I would suggest maybe trying a different plug. Maybe a copper core plug. Herc can elaborate a little more on that. He had a good post not too long ago about plugs.

...I wonder if maybe somehow the cat got knocked around and glogged up? I don't know I'm just trying to think of anything.

Hello,

You might try disconnecting your battery for about an hour and make another run.
Be sure to take it easy the first few miles, work your way up to aggresive acceleration.
You will see a few disturbances on your scanner as your PCM relearns.

Later now,
Clint

Reset the computer... that might help things.

Yeah, i was wondering about trying new plugs... man, my skin just finally grew back from the last set I changed

I'm considering a throttle body spacer (albeit it will be little if any help i'm sure) I suspect the 91 octane here doesn't help, we have 94 now at one station but it's ethanol blended and seems to run worse then 91, I scanned it at the same.

I'm running out of ideas really, my car bra should be here at the end of the week maybe that will help HAHAHAH (It's for highway driving only all you car bra haters (like me)).

So...

1. New plugs (Autolites)
2. 160 Thermo (Drilled?)
3. Throttle body spacer (Maybe)
4. Put my old 16" tires back on so I can spin for 3 blocks and feel good again

Cheers!

Excellent, let me try resetting.. Thanks Guys, Never though of that but now that you mention it, I did read something like that before.

Thanks!

I hate them too... I keep mine in my trunk. Did you get the mirror bras too. They fit real nice.

My bra has been collecting dust for 9 months. I hate trying to clean the pine tar, berries, etc off of my hood when I remove it.

Yup, i got the mirror bra's aswell. We'll be doing about 4000 KM's on our honeymoon through the Canadian Rockies to the west coast and back, so I figure it would well be worth the investment.

Thanks for the tip Austin G______T ______P!

Just added the actual scans to my first post in this thread for those interested..

I've also unplugged the battery and will run more scans tommorow night

Word of advice, since you live in Canada and I KNOW it will be colder than where I live you should remember to keep your old thermostat if you get the drilled 160. My car took forever to heat up with that thermostat and stayed cool the whole time. Had to switch it back so I could get heat in my car quicker.

I hate my_____new_____name.

Flip your front sway bar upside down. Chances are you are experiencing falsk KR from the DP banging against the sway bar.

I second the false KR theory.

Autstin had mentioned this aswell..

What's involved in doing this. I'll do it this weekend, but any advice before doing so? I have no experience (yet) in flipping sway bars...

Cheers!

It's nothing hard. Basically, loosen the bolts then you flip it and re-install the bolts.

Yeah, i figured it was something simple. Just checking.

Thanks.

Well, it's just a little more than just loosen the bolts and flip it. Don't flip it front to rear, flip it left to right. You have to remove everything from the sway bar. Remove one of the steering links. I think you only need to remove one side. When I installed my GMPP sway bar, I removed the links on both sides. Take the sway bay out. Now flip it so you are putting the left to right and the right to left. Front will still be front and rear will still be rear, and reinstall it.
...and I can't think of a better time to install a GMPP handling upgrade while you're doing this.

Flip it good!

Wacked out moment.

I looked into this when you got yours, but gmpp won't sell to us deprived canadians. Maybe there's another way to get the kit, I'll look into it cause your so right...

Cheers!

Have it shipped to someone in the US, and have them ship it to you.
I'll do it for you if you don't have anyone closer. I can let you know how much the shipping is from me to you and you can send me the money for the shipping, but you might want to find someone closer so the shipping won't be that much.
But if you want me to do it, there is an advantag, I work in S&R so I know what forms need to be filled out for an Int'l shipment, and I have all of the forms too. I'm very familiar with int'l shipping proceedures.

Let me know.

Just order my GMPP Handling kit the other day.

If it's too much, let me know and I could ask here at work. Let me know.

Thanks Guys, I'll check it out!!!! (Man there's some really nice people in this group).

Disclaimer: *NOOB POST*

What exactly is KR? What does it do? How do you feel it? How do you get rid of it?

Nice? Who said I'm nice?

KR is Knock Retard. There's a scientific explanation which someone else can fill in. Basically, it's bad.

Heres some good articles, I think I'll read them all again aswell

http://www.zzperformance.com/articles.php?wp=2

So I just crawled under my car (Which is really hard at the moment cause I threw my back out a couple days ago) and took a look at how far the D/P is from the swaybar. It's hard to tell exactly in the picture cause of the angle, but it's a good 1/2" away. Could they still be hitting? it's a large gap?

I was quite suprised to see the flex pipe there aswell, I hope that's not an issue.

You'd be amazed at how much that motor rocks when you jump on the gas. But false KR after a DP replacement is commen and the usual cause is the sway bar contacting the DP.

FLEX PIPE!
Does yours whistle? Mine does.

With all the flexing of the car and twisting of the motor during driving conditions, it's hard to judge if it's in the way just by crawling under the car and looking at it. It's a typical issue with the installation of D/P's. The sway bar really needs to be flipped when installing a 3" D/P.

I tossed my back out Aug of last year. I never hurt so bad and for so long in my whole life. I still have little moments, but the doc said I'll always have it. Strained the lower left lumbar... tore the muscle in my lower back. Felt it all the way to my butt cheek.

Thanks gents, consider that sway bar flipped on Saturday when I paint my calipers aswell

Cheers!

i think intense has wraps that go on your trans,,,say it helps to fight KR.might want to look in to it.

Canadian GTP,
Any update on that KR issue you're having?

Well, I flipped the swaybar. (What a task). The vibration is totally gone from the DP hitting it so the car feels much better once again (Thanks for helping solving that) but the KR is still there.

I'm still researching, and the biggest thing right now is to figure out if it is False or not. I'm still not entirely sure how to tell. My last scan shows some droppage in KR while the RPMs are still increasing so I believe this to be a sign of False KR, but i'm still not entirely sure.

At 2 HP per 1 degree of KR, it's something I won't give up on, that's for sure...

Here's part of last scan.

RPM....KR

1320....0
2018....0
2223....0
2580....0
2794....0
3075....0
3519....0.1
3893....0.5
4315....1.9
4734....4.8
5101....6.5
5483....5
5849....3.6
5928....2.3
3988....3.6
4049....4
4012....2.5
4000....1.1
4012....0
3859....0
2406....0
2441 0


Any suggs?

Thanks Bobby and All!

I really don't know what else to try, other than maybe a set of copper core plugs, maybe TR6 copper core, but I'm not sure if that'll do anything for you.

That and race fuel

think it could be your intense pcm?

Thinking about swapping the factory and doing a scan this weekend, then i'll try new plugs. If that fails, I may be going to a 3.5

That definately looks like false KR. Have you only done one scan or did you do multiple scans. I am assuming you did that scan while on the road. Try another section of road and see what happens. Don't give up on that 3.4 yet. We'll figuere it out.

Is your T-stat drilled? If not, maybe try drilling four 1/8" holes in it. That might help a little bit.

Make sure your air filter is clean and airflow isn't being obstructed in any way.

Thanks guys. I'll drill the t-stat. I have done about 5 scans so far, and all seem very similar. I'll clean the K&N, drill the t-stat and scan again this weekend. Then I'll swap plugs to autolites and try that.

Cheers!

Autolite 104s are one heat range colder not sure what two heat ranges are though. Nice thing is they are about a buck apiece.

Here they are...
12 bucks but good luck installing it.
http://www.intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...tegory_Code=PBF

Well, it makes for a good last resort... Thanks Guys!