If I had a GT I would get the Turbo...it sounds like a great mod to me.

Obliviously though as with any car and any engine when you mod it you risk damage.

So mod smart and if you have a GT get the Turbo

I think the work these guys did to get a bosted GT is great, from all the posts I have read converting a GT to a GTP is not worth it but what it seems to me is that the Turbo is a better way to go, and for less money.

on the Turbo guys Good Job.

Yes, I would aggree with you Jizz, for a GT owner this is probably the most horsepower you can gain from any one mod. This would definately be the way that I would go if I had a GT and wanted large gains, hell, with just a turbo, intercooler and some compression changes on the GT you could easily run anywhere from 5-20lbs of boost, just by adjustin a blow off valve, its a lot easier than swapping pulleys, and in the long run will probably result in higher gains if you continue to build your engine to withstand the boost levels.

I see what you're sayin now 4ss it's just your coments where a little confusing ,I guess time will tell how the turbos are going to affect stock L36's and there trans.I personally would'nt put a turbo on unless you are sure your motor is built to withstand the extra power.

Yeah, I definately aggree, sorry about the confusion again, I knew what I was thinking I just didnt know how to explain it

Very good points regarding High compression engine tolerance levels vs boost. Since my clutch disks seems to be burned out, I am looking at ZZperformance's HD upgrade. Currently calling for details.

Hercman, are there any postings on the web from the people who have blown their stock trannys from these turbo kits? I am very, very interested in reading them.

I'm going to "take one for the team" and purchase a turbo on my GT and report back. The fix for my tranny will be first, however. I hear the warnings but I will not purchase an intercooler, for now. But hey, $4800 for turbo & tranny is a lot of bread! I'm going to go conservative on the boost and rely on the faith of the GM v6 engineering (Hey, I heard that snicker) and my 93k motor.

To change boost on a Turbo you do nothing with the blow off valve. It only releases pressure once built. Your actual adjustment is in the Wastegate. Definition=Excess boost being wasted. I understand what your saying rssfeed4 but it would take hella work to be running 20 psi on this motor let a lone i think the turbo they are including with this kit doesnt have an effective range to 20 psi. I may be wrong. As for it blowing the tranny thats def gonna happen. As for running without a intercooler i wouldnt do it. I would also insvest in a scan tool for KR. I would say with a gt running a turbo would not exceed 5 psi. Thats just me. I would say 5 psi and having enough fuel would get you close to the 300 hp mark. I think before anyone goes off explaining how much boost and everything if PFYC is completely confident on this product they will offer more details than what they are currently showing IE boost levels for claimed HP #'s and if they are just going to make a general claim that it runs cooler they need to provide data proving it because i dont think they have it all together......

I think the new injectors, plug gaps, computer, and 91+ octane will take care of the knock. They claim knocking won't happen with this kit with minimum 91 octane.

Note the turbo is shipped with 9-10 psi. There is NO mention anywhere on cartuning documentation about the tranny except for the following:

"Cartuning Performance does not recommend increasing boost pressures unless your vehicle has the modifications to support higher boost levels (such as an upgraded transmission, valvetrain work or intercooler)."

This implies the stock tranny works fine with out it.

Implies.

If I were to get an intercooler, I MAY go with the MAP but I've heard bad things about that company. Hard to trust aftermarket sometimes.

Right, I mis worded it, Its actually not the waste gate either that adjusts the PSI its the manual boost controller, the waste gate is just a part of this unit, anyhow, yeah, I dont know exactly how much that turbo will spool, I was just making a theoretical statement as to the ease of tuning the car, and yes, if you read my earlier posts I pretty much said you cant put anything more that 5-8 lbs of boost on a l36 without some very heavy modification.

Also, DUDE!!!!!! I strongly advise you not to put a turbo on your GT unless you get an intercooler to go along with it. If your not doing anything to your internals, you will run a very high risk of damaging several things even if your only at 5PSI. Run it without an intercooler for a month, I bet you will have to replace the head gasket, if not by then, definately in the near future, and your KR will be so bad it will start to destroy your engine. Your engine wasnt made for boost, dont force it, prepare your engine first, then feed it

Also, your comment about the minimmun 91 octane requirement is somewhat ignorant. 91 octane is not just going to magically make your KR go away, I've never checked, but im sure on a hot day you could even find some KR in a stock GTP only running 91 octane(stock GTP boost around 8-9PSI with the 3.8 pulley), and they are set up for boost. Ive got quite a few things done to reduce KR on my car, and with my 3.25 pulley I wont run anything less than 95 octane in my car (110 on race days). Dont take my word for it though, go buy the turbo and a KR sensor and see for yourself

Yeah im glad someone see's my point of view on the whole knock/blow up situation that this will create. And yes the wastegate does control your boost. And you dont have to have a manual boost controller to control boost on a car. I know i work on turbo cars with my buddys....but rssfed i agree on everything else...i read somehwere that turbos actually make hotter air the a roots or screw charger........i wish someone independant would test this and which one is which because no matter who sells it whatever theyt sell runs cooler.

Hmm lets see here. Using hot air to spin a turbine I would think the heat sinc would be tremendous compared to using a mechanical process to take cold air and compress it. I wonder if both were putting out say 10 psi which one would have higher air temps? Not including intercoolers by the way.

I read the website, and they do offer, quite a bit of general KR reducers, like new plugs, new t-stat, reprogrammed pcm, new injectors, u-bend delete, high flow cat, and a FWI. I would these would be good for an L67, but I would still be very very hesitant with an L36.

The questions and answer section on the PFYC store says that :

"...kit was designed properly, and the pcm was tuned for all the changes made, it's perfectly safe. A turbo outputs air much cooler then the stock eaton supercharger does from GM. I don't recall the factory giving you an intercooler! We've tuned the car to 91 octane, and have allowed for 15 degrees of WOT timing, along with many other fueling, trans, etc changes and see absolutely 0 degrees of knock retard. This kit is perfectly safe to use without an intercooler."

I personally thing that the part about our superchargers running hot air is a load of....fertilizer! Turbo cars are notorious for running hot because of the turbo

Uhh hello using super heated air to spin a turbine creates less heat? What are they using ceramic turbines and housings? I think not.

This is one of the reasons why I said this turbo seemed fishy. They don't come direct with some answers and others answers given aren't professional.

When discussing headers w/ the turbo, it doesn't just say something like "the turbo cannot fit with a GT or GTP with aftermarket headers".

Turbo running "cooler" air??? I didn't see that part. Now I am worried.
A turbo get air from exhaust pressure. It is definately hotter than an eaton root charger. I mean most turbo cars have to idle for 10 minutes to cool down vs. a supercharger with no idle. Who ya foolin?