I'm pretty sure it's the 12-14* of KR all the way through the 1/4 mile.

Maaaaaybe it's time to replace that bad front o2 sensor methinks? My LTFT's all all over the ******* board as well.

So tomorrow I'm going to get a new front 02, new brake pads, and scan the PISS out of the car under normal driving.

I don't plan on actually TUNING for a while, just get a ton of scans in and take a look at them.

But yeah, when I started the run at the track, I just watched the KR go from 8* to 12* to 14* off the line. But I figured it could have been false knock so I kept on it until I hit second gear.

Then it was like 6* to 9* to 14* at which point I just let off the gas and drove down and off the track.

I'm guessing my bad 02 sensor is running the top-end WAAAAY too lean, I'm get 4* of KR, just under moderate DD acceleration.

But yeah, as soon as I can, I'll get some DD scans in and let you guys look at the bins for me for now if you want.

It will be a while before I know what I'm actually LOOKING at.

something's wrong with that

gotta be false... if you were getting 14* of KR for real, every one of your pistons would be gone

if your O2 sensor was that messed up, and causing you to be going that lean, it would have been BOOM a long time ago. you have more than enough supporting mods to run that pulley so I doubt that.

haven't you been watching your scan gauges?

never assume that it is false knock. false knock is rare. just hope that you already didnt do any serious damage

14*... come on... with his mods and pulley size there is no way that is real

zerg, be sure to send DHP a copy of your bin and request a 1.5 file as well. It's a like a base tune file with all the goodies already changed: skip shifts, rad fan kick ons, tq management, etc.

he said his fuel trims were all over the place, he was running probably 8psi., so 14 seems kinda high, but he doesnt really know what to look at in a scan, so who knows?

Maybe the tune was that bad?

Now you see why alot of people were on you about your PCM and getting a scan before you went out and did track runs.

Make sure there's nothing under the hood that could be hitting anything else when you're hoofin' it, same concept as swaybar + downpipe issue, and tune up any of the ho-hum things you may not have done recently, filters, etc.

Your car was probably already running lean, even with the ZZP PCM. It just acts that way, mine did, Slick's did, alot of the HACGP guys' did. At least one of your cylinders is probably way leaner than the others just because of location, and there's never really a set way of telling which ones it is, and even if you did know somehow, if you don't have a tuner, you wouldn't have been able to do anything about it anyway. This is one reason why people kept telling you a box PCM wouldn't cut it for your application, ever. Especially with a cam.

With a cam, YOU MUST TUNE. There is NO safe way around it. Introducing something that radical will affect alot of parameters that need to be adjusted to accommodate.

But I suppose you see this all now, and that we weren't just posting to see ourselves talk. It would have been a huge waste for you to blow your new setup just because you didn't wait to tune it.

DHP's forums will help you immensely. Hopefully that huge amount of KR isn't real and you didn't royally mess something up for the future integrity of your setup.

With that said, with what you have said here, be careful while you're scanning it if you still don't want to tune it. It would suck for your next thread to be about how your piston shot a pushrod through the headers.

Drummer I could HEAR something wasn'e right.

I'm not going to say I heard pinging or knocking but I could hear power being bleed off.

And I could feel it, it was like being N/A all over again!

And it can't be false, false KR wouldn't go down during the shift and then climb back up into the gear.


Oh but on a MUCH MUCH MUCH cooler note, guess who I saw and talked to at GLD last night?

Mr. M90 WHP Record holder himself, Fred Cakanic!

I saw this blue GP official pace car with slicks and I'm like "HUH?"

So I walk over there and I ask him about the car and it's got a 2.7" pulley and ZZP stickers everywhere and a ZZP Stage 3 blower.

And then he started talking about having fuel issues and the car blowing up in the dyno and I'm like "Wait, you wouldn't happen to be the guy that holds the M90 horsepower record would you?"

And he's like "Yes I am."

So I shook his hand and said it was a pleasure to meet him.

Deffinately a good looking GP. Intercooled, BIG blower, all painted and stuff.

There were about 4 GPs there.

However, the track was SWAMPED with Corvettes! I'm talking like 20-30 of them! No lie!

I can highly see the 14* as knock! It's not fals, I can doubt that. He hasn't tuned it since he did all that work. Look at what D just posted, how the guy got 50 more hp out of the Dyno tune. My buddies stock gtp is throwing 9* with the slightest boost. Why did you have to go to the track to find that out. Just take an on ramp to the highway and you'll get all that scan there.

Did you happen to have him look at your scan or what?

didnt you ask in another thread what to do about tuning.

people said to start slow. not at the race track. That isnt smart.

I don't even have the softare on my laptop yet, I'm still waiting for DHP to give me forum access.

WHat I don't get it why is it this bad now if it's not the 02 sensor?

I've been top-swapped for a couple months now guys. I've run a 14.5 with 0* KR during the whole run and my fuel trims were 0.0 and -2.3 fromt he first 1/8 to the last respectively.

It's got to be related to that sensor because it hasn't been doing this sinec a couple weeks ago, which was when the car started throwing the P1133 code.


Could a vac leak maybe do this too? I had disconnected my boost gauge ON PURPOSE today lol and just blocked the vac T with a cap.

I occasionally hear kind of a "hiss" coming from the pulley side of the engine, almost sounds like a turbine, a very small one. It's a lot louder when the engine is cold though and as it warms up it will go away.

I'm sure it's not all false... What parameters are you scanning?

And why are you running around on a bad O2 sensor or do you know if it's even bad?

It's been throwing the P1133 code so I assume it's gone out on me with all the Y-pipe work I did for the headers.

And that's also why I haven't fixed it yet. Because of the way the Y-pipe sits for MY car, maybe not them all, the back of the O2 sensor has about 1/4 inch clearance from the side of the body, requiring me to remove the entire Y-pipe section and cat just to get it out.

And after all the BS with the band-clamps I REALLY don't want to go under there and **** with it all again.

Since only one of my scan gauges works properly, the parameters on that gauge are KR and LTFT.

I wouldn't necessarily go out and replace the O2 sensor based on that dtc alone...

You need a real scan with a good set of parameters... Then you'll know better what are your issues. Before that I can't help you and no one else can either unless they can work magic.

P1133 likes to set itself for no reason after you mess with that area of the exhaust, even if the sensor isn't bad.

And there is NO way that that code is the source of all these problems.

I seriously doubt you were running 0* KR with that box-tune, also. Were you reading that from the gauge? It seems EXTREMELY off that it would read 0* KR while you run a less than stellar 1/4 (which is not all because of your 60', by the way), and suddenly the PT is showing you as having an exorbitant amount of KR.

That doesn't add up.

Bottom line, tune your freakin' car before you blow it up.