Both. ZZP did the crossover, but not enough for my liking. I took it into my own hands... I actually got it tighter than I would like, but it seems to have worked out. I dread the day I have to take it back off though... probably have to tap it from the top to knock it off. Unfortunately, I think that's the only way to stop my reverse clunking.

mine are welded. that should be fun to take apart

dont ever take it apart... you can leave the rear header in and the crossover and still be able to pull out the motor out. obviously you would need to take off the front header and also take all of the bolts out of the rear header.

course you would only need to deal with this if something terrible happened to your motor... *crossing my fingers*

Well, I *think* I fixed my crossover leak *knock on wood*

I just unbolted all but one bolt of the front header and one bolt from the crossover.

Then I tightened the impposible-to-reach bolt as tight as I could with the wrench, then put some copper RTV around where the leak had been.

Tightened the other bolt down hard, smeared the RTV a little bit, fired it up for a second just to see if the pressure would blow it.

Nothing happened so I think I will be good to go tomorrow.

Maybe, MAYBE tomorrow I'll get under the car again and put some copper RTV under the band clamps on the Y-pipe so I can seal that a little bit too.

14* of real knock is not impossible.

I have some similar experience with this.
Your knock retard is controlled by attack and decay values, tuneable by the PT.
About a month after I first installed my novi1000 kit, it felt bogged down and slow. You could hear it too. I got the aeroforce gauge around the same time so I quickly found out I was getting 14* KR. This would happen randomly when accelerating, even EXTREMELY slowly. Anyhow, I talked with Matt from stattama and he had me tweak some of the KR attack rates to some slightly longer time settings, and the KR disappeared completely. It doesn't fully make sense, since we don't know why it started happening in the first place.

False KR is also highly possible, especially with your header situation. 14* is usually the maximum possible allowed KR, so its possible some vibration or rattle is maxing out the sensor.

You really should find somebody with a wideband O2 and hook that up, though.

Take it easy. Post a scan asap.

Ok. Zuul, RooK, and Drummer, you all have PT's right?

I'm reading through webracin's guide right now and my head is spinning but I'm starting to get it.

But as far as acutally getting scans in, how am I going to do what I need to?

There isn't a road in the STATE I can slowly climb up to 90 mph, I doubt I can even get up to 75 mph. Our cops can be real jags.

Should I just go to a dyno and have somebody else tune it for me? I'd bet they would have a wideband O2 there as well.

If you can afford it do the dyno.

You don't need to follow those exact directions.
Slowly climbing lets you fine tune little blips of imperfections along the way up... not entire necessary. You just need a rough tune first.

Anywho, tune fueling first: MAF table tunes in this order: idle, cruise, WOT. Repeat a few times to get them close. Then work on your PE for heavier accel and WOT. Then mess with your timing. If you're getting real KR earlier in the tuning process, I would pull timing across the board so you can get fueling good before you push timing to the edge.

Ok, where EXACTLY should I start?

Before I start scanning, I'm going to reset my fuel trims a few days before so I can get those in the right area, not where they are now from that bad 02 sensor.

I'm thinking once I know how to hook the ******* thing up and have the software on my laptop, I'll hop on the highways and scan for 30 min or so.

Would that be good enough? I was thinking of driving up to the mall, it's about a 30 min drive, almost all of it highway, though there are a lot of stop-lights.

half of it is 45, the rest is 55.

But once I get some scans, then what?

I read something about writing down the MAP readings in kPa from 10 to 100 in 10 kPa incriments and then writing down the LTFTs for those specific MAP amounts.

Then what was I supposed to do with that? Do I adjust the IFR by that amount to "zero" out my fuel trims?

I don't even remember, there was a lot of info that was in there twice, especially the stuff I"m trying to remember right now lol.

Don't adjust your IFR. Adjust the MAF table.
Do you have instant messenger or something?

I've got windows live messenger and I can get something like AOL or MSN if you want to help me out right now.