Ive been doing research on turbo builds, and I'm kinda confused on where to look now. Ive decided that ill be ordering a complete kit from zzp to eliminate the hassle of tracking down parts.

what I'm stuck on is whether to get Z3 kit with the Borg warner extended tip or the Z7 kit.

if i could get info on the positive/negatives of both turbos and what engine mods would help each kit respectively

opinions welcome if you could give reason behind it

I was saying look in the forums classifieds for full kits because there is a stattama kit going for less then a new Z3 kit in cgp but w.e do what you want.

Alright the Z7 kit is a much better kit. The crossover difference is huge. In the Z3 kit all they did was weld a flange on what looks like to be an almost stock crossover. In the Z7 kit you can see how the crossover ties in together for better flow. In the Z3 kit the exhaust gasses are hitting each other then going into the turbo.

The Z3 kit turbo is cheaper and smaller then the Z7 kit. The T62-1 in the Z7 will get you good power you can easily get into the 400whp range. The Z3 kit is kind of limiting.

Also the location of the Z3 wastegate is just like on the CT kit. However the Z3 wastegate is open dump and you will hear it quite noticeably while the Z7 ties it back into the exhaust being quieter.

It all comes down to money but in my opinion the Z7 is much better over all. Save up more you will be happier down the line.

Make sure you buy an I/C kit. Screw that non I/C bullshit because you need an I/C its not just an option its a requirement.

im just afraid of the stattma kit being too big of a turbo and i wont be able to get the money to do this till the spring but i wanna get everything lined up

Well what are your goals?

My friend there is no such thing as too big of a turbo lol.

Over last winter 8 turbo kits went up for sale in the classified section of CGP you never know what will happen.

ok i want to get the most out of my DD keep it reliable and able to drive in the winter
im thinkin 450 hp

You will not daily drive 450whp lol well you won't want to with the gas mileage you get with the cam you need to make that power.

I'm shooting for 480-500ish and Im doing an ST5 cam #130 springs pushrods double roller etc

Btw 450 will be close to maxing out the 62-1 on 20psi.

ZZP likes to overate there numbers. The again there dyno reads crazy high and the corrections they do make it even higher. I went from one dyno to a mustang dyno and made 30whp more so ya hahaha

Z7 is the best of the kits you listed.

IMO either find a cheap used CT or z7 kit and upgrade to a t67 turbo. It's the best for a 3800 and will make you more power than you can imagine. A guy on my local board made 624 whp on a t67 with a slipping converter (80%) on pump gas, I believe it was a record actually for a t67 on 94 octane. Like Chris said, i/c is necessary. I'm upgrading to an i/c and meth over winter because I can only run 13 psi even with an ST2 cam without one. Not enough...

Cam it, you will always regret not doing it.

update
with a T67 stattma kit what cam should i be looking at

also what cam should i be looking at for the Z7 turbo kit

depends, I went ST2 because I have stock heads and 105# valve springs and don't want to rev my otherwise stock pushrod engine to 6300+ rpm.

Chris says you can run ST5 on stock heads which I didn't know. But you will need 130# valve springs and you would want to upgrade to a double roller timing chain just incase among other things to do it safely.

Anywhere in between ST2 and ST5 and you will be happy.

i already figured on the #130 springs and a double chain but i dont have a clue what all the degrees mean and i assume that the ST5 is going to be a lumpy its the highest level of turbo cam they have but what i dont know is if the ST5 will still run smoothly at low rpm. i wont be boosting that much mainly just getting on the highway and passing people.

does anybody have more info on understanding cam profiles?

these are the options im consedering

Stattama Turbo #3
Designed to make power up to 6600 RPM and causing a fairly rough idle, this cam will require PCM changes. Contact us for a custom tuned PCM. 130 lb. valve springs are recommended.

Duration @ .050" is 218°/212°.
Lift is .528”/.520” with 1.6 rockers.
Lobe separation is 114 degrees.

Stattama STr3
Designed to make power up to 6600 RPM and causing a fairly rough idle, this cam will require ported heads and PCM changes. Contact us for a custom tuned PCM. 130# valve springs are required.

Duration @ .050" is 224°/224°.
Lift is .536”/.536” with 1.6 rockers.
Lobe separation is 115 degrees.

Stattama Turbo #4
130# valve springs, modified retainers, Comp Cams OER lifters, Rollmaster double timing chain is highly recommended.

Duration @ .050" is 224°/218°.
Lift is .536”/.528” with 1.6 rockers.
Lobe separation is 116 degrees.

I would say run the bigger cam if you already have the supporting mods.

You can run an ST5 cam BUT anything over an ST3 use modded retainers. They are needed.

I will be running an ST5 cam with #130 valve springs, Modded retainers, Hardened pushrods, ARP head studs, new valve seals and locks, stock rockers, comp reusable rocker bolts, and a Rollermaster double roller DO NOT GET A JP DOUBLE ROLLER!

ill only be getting rollermaster and are the mods you have listed the supporting mods required for the ST5

and i wanna hear urs after ur done chris also what turbo do you have

Stattama turbo cams are very mild cams. They are more based on duration. The lift won't be anything too lumpy. Nowhere near an XP cam either.

This is an ST4 cam
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/550whp-Stage-6-Turbo-on_204077.htm

Most of them are required.

Supporting mods:
#130 Valve springs
Rollermaster Double Roller

Modified Retainers are if you use stock heads.

I would do hardened push rods because its easier and they are stronger for those springs.

Seals and locks are cheap and a good move too especially with this much boost.

Also for that much boost you will need an Cometic MLS head gasket set.

I am running a PT-61 atm but will be upgrading to the T-67 soon. The 61 will get me mid 400's so I'm good with that. The 61 spools extremely low for me right around 2.6k. The 67 is more like 3.8k.

wonder if the ball bearing T67 would spool any sooner

i know it would be cheaper to just get a ST5 but would i get the same results from a ST2 with 1.7RR, wouldnt the ST2 with rockers be easier on the valve train?

Turbo lag is a grace for street cars because you don't go into boost unless you punch it. I start hitting boost going up hills.....

BB turbo will spool up faster but its almost double the price. However there is little to no cool down time since most BB turbos are water cooled.

I am not a fan of rockers. The only reason I would say to get 1.6 roller rockers to go easier on your retainers.

Why would the ST2 be easier on the valve train when you are still running 1.7rr?

ST5 would net more power

Are you going to port your heads? I remember it being in your sig earlier on.