Ive been doing research on turbo builds, and I'm kinda confused on where to look now. Ive decided that ill be ordering a complete kit from zzp to eliminate the hassle of tracking down parts.

what I'm stuck on is whether to get Z3 kit with the Borg warner extended tip or the Z7 kit.

if i could get info on the positive/negatives of both turbos and what engine mods would help each kit respectively

opinions welcome if you could give reason behind it

I was saying look in the forums classifieds for full kits because there is a stattama kit going for less then a new Z3 kit in cgp but w.e do what you want.

Alright the Z7 kit is a much better kit. The crossover difference is huge. In the Z3 kit all they did was weld a flange on what looks like to be an almost stock crossover. In the Z7 kit you can see how the crossover ties in together for better flow. In the Z3 kit the exhaust gasses are hitting each other then going into the turbo.

The Z3 kit turbo is cheaper and smaller then the Z7 kit. The T62-1 in the Z7 will get you good power you can easily get into the 400whp range. The Z3 kit is kind of limiting.

Also the location of the Z3 wastegate is just like on the CT kit. However the Z3 wastegate is open dump and you will hear it quite noticeably while the Z7 ties it back into the exhaust being quieter.

It all comes down to money but in my opinion the Z7 is much better over all. Save up more you will be happier down the line.

Make sure you buy an I/C kit. Screw that non I/C bullshit because you need an I/C its not just an option its a requirement.

im just afraid of the stattma kit being too big of a turbo and i wont be able to get the money to do this till the spring but i wanna get everything lined up

Well what are your goals?

My friend there is no such thing as too big of a turbo lol.

Over last winter 8 turbo kits went up for sale in the classified section of CGP you never know what will happen.

ok i want to get the most out of my DD keep it reliable and able to drive in the winter
im thinkin 450 hp

You will not daily drive 450whp lol well you won't want to with the gas mileage you get with the cam you need to make that power.

I'm shooting for 480-500ish and Im doing an ST5 cam #130 springs pushrods double roller etc

Btw 450 will be close to maxing out the 62-1 on 20psi.

ZZP likes to overate there numbers. The again there dyno reads crazy high and the corrections they do make it even higher. I went from one dyno to a mustang dyno and made 30whp more so ya hahaha

Z7 is the best of the kits you listed.

IMO either find a cheap used CT or z7 kit and upgrade to a t67 turbo. It's the best for a 3800 and will make you more power than you can imagine. A guy on my local board made 624 whp on a t67 with a slipping converter (80%) on pump gas, I believe it was a record actually for a t67 on 94 octane. Like Chris said, i/c is necessary. I'm upgrading to an i/c and meth over winter because I can only run 13 psi even with an ST2 cam without one. Not enough...

Cam it, you will always regret not doing it.

update
with a T67 stattma kit what cam should i be looking at

also what cam should i be looking at for the Z7 turbo kit

depends, I went ST2 because I have stock heads and 105# valve springs and don't want to rev my otherwise stock pushrod engine to 6300+ rpm.

Chris says you can run ST5 on stock heads which I didn't know. But you will need 130# valve springs and you would want to upgrade to a double roller timing chain just incase among other things to do it safely.

Anywhere in between ST2 and ST5 and you will be happy.

i already figured on the #130 springs and a double chain but i dont have a clue what all the degrees mean and i assume that the ST5 is going to be a lumpy its the highest level of turbo cam they have but what i dont know is if the ST5 will still run smoothly at low rpm. i wont be boosting that much mainly just getting on the highway and passing people.

does anybody have more info on understanding cam profiles?

these are the options im consedering

Stattama Turbo #3
Designed to make power up to 6600 RPM and causing a fairly rough idle, this cam will require PCM changes. Contact us for a custom tuned PCM. 130 lb. valve springs are recommended.

Duration @ .050" is 218°/212°.
Lift is .528”/.520” with 1.6 rockers.
Lobe separation is 114 degrees.

Stattama STr3
Designed to make power up to 6600 RPM and causing a fairly rough idle, this cam will require ported heads and PCM changes. Contact us for a custom tuned PCM. 130# valve springs are required.

Duration @ .050" is 224°/224°.
Lift is .536”/.536” with 1.6 rockers.
Lobe separation is 115 degrees.

Stattama Turbo #4
130# valve springs, modified retainers, Comp Cams OER lifters, Rollmaster double timing chain is highly recommended.

Duration @ .050" is 224°/218°.
Lift is .536”/.528” with 1.6 rockers.
Lobe separation is 116 degrees.

I would say run the bigger cam if you already have the supporting mods.

You can run an ST5 cam BUT anything over an ST3 use modded retainers. They are needed.

I will be running an ST5 cam with #130 valve springs, Modded retainers, Hardened pushrods, ARP head studs, new valve seals and locks, stock rockers, comp reusable rocker bolts, and a Rollermaster double roller DO NOT GET A JP DOUBLE ROLLER!

ill only be getting rollermaster and are the mods you have listed the supporting mods required for the ST5

and i wanna hear urs after ur done chris also what turbo do you have

Stattama turbo cams are very mild cams. They are more based on duration. The lift won't be anything too lumpy. Nowhere near an XP cam either.

This is an ST4 cam
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/550whp-Stage-6-Turbo-on_204077.htm

Most of them are required.

Supporting mods:
#130 Valve springs
Rollermaster Double Roller

Modified Retainers are if you use stock heads.

I would do hardened push rods because its easier and they are stronger for those springs.

Seals and locks are cheap and a good move too especially with this much boost.

Also for that much boost you will need an Cometic MLS head gasket set.

I am running a PT-61 atm but will be upgrading to the T-67 soon. The 61 will get me mid 400's so I'm good with that. The 61 spools extremely low for me right around 2.6k. The 67 is more like 3.8k.

wonder if the ball bearing T67 would spool any sooner

i know it would be cheaper to just get a ST5 but would i get the same results from a ST2 with 1.7RR, wouldnt the ST2 with rockers be easier on the valve train?

Turbo lag is a grace for street cars because you don't go into boost unless you punch it. I start hitting boost going up hills.....

BB turbo will spool up faster but its almost double the price. However there is little to no cool down time since most BB turbos are water cooled.

I am not a fan of rockers. The only reason I would say to get 1.6 roller rockers to go easier on your retainers.

Why would the ST2 be easier on the valve train when you are still running 1.7rr?

ST5 would net more power

Are you going to port your heads? I remember it being in your sig earlier on.

I wish I hadn't blown so much money on my M90 setup. Once I finish this build up, I will be doing some form of a turbo build.

zzp'z BB t67 is only and extra 400 with there stattma kit im consedering the BB cause i dont want to have to wait till almost 4k for boost. i do want lag so i can cruise without throwing down alot of torque.

yes im going to gasket match my heads once i get the turbo and when i can afford it get zzp's custom heads, but before i drop that much money on heads i need to rebuild the block so the crank can handle the boost and rebuild the tranny so i dont grenade it.

i just hope i can turn down the T67 enough to save my tranny

lmao building your bottom end is dumb. No offense but it really is.

ZZP's builds are stock bottom ends.

Most people are running stock bottom ends on high hp builds. I know of 8 or 9 400whp + who have never opened up there bottom end. The only real upgrades are L32 rods which aren't really that much better. And for pistons we have diamond forged but still the stockers are fine. The main killer of Pistons is KR.

You don't need heads I was just asking. I will push 500whp on stock heads and bottom end dude. Our bottom ends are freaking awesome stock dude.

The only weak point on our cars is the trans. If you stay under 10psi your trans should be ok. Mine lasted a long time but mine was a trooper from the factory. To handle over 450whp you need a 1" GMR chain with other supporting mods. So if you buy a built trans your looking around $4k for your trans if you want to push your goals.

Or buy a semi built trans and watch your 7/8ths chain stretch. lol

I will be running another stocker and just roll off the line and pray it lasts more then a few months.

You're worried about the stock crank? lol. You need to do some more reading dude. Everything in the block is fine. Worry about the tranny.

huh guess ive read wrong but on my higher compression ill only be able to handle 10psi intercooled if ive been told right

and yes im talking to tripleedgeperformance about a tranny too

If your wanting to get your heads done I can fix you up with a good deal ,and do'nt think my work is some handyman with a dremel I guarentee you will think these heads are a piece of art built to your needs for under $500.Chico (pops)

Ok buddy I ran 17psi I/C on my stock L36 block with no issue. I will run 18-20psi I/C with no issue and if I want more Ill throw meth and timing at it.

You have loads of research to do dude loads lol.

And chico's work is spot on professional. If I ever do my heads he is who I will be sending them to!

ok sounds good do you know how much intercooled boost i can put to a L36 with my mods listed

and whats the minimum boost on a T67

There is no such thing as minimum boost on a turbo.

That MAF is killing you if you go turbo. It was a really dumb mod for a turbo setup. So a little more than 10 psi would register.

The bottom end alone should take 18psi on pump gas. Maybe 20 but idk yet. I will be running meth if I want to run more boost. Its not always worth adding more boost and pulling timing. Usually it is but not always.

You will need either a mini AFC or an LT1 maf or a modded ZZP maf.

Do you know what a wastegate is? A blow off valve? PCV? Air Fuel Ratio?

I'm not trying to be a dick but how can you decide to go into this extreme of a build without knowing what you're getting into?

Look if I just tell you everything I'm hurting you more then helping. You need to look stuff up so that you learn it.

yes i know what all those are i didnt know that my maf wouldnt be able to read the boost

apparently there is a minimum boost for a boost controler and im trying to figure out what that level is and im asking you guys and zzp at the same time as im doing research. im trying to learn all this and i will learn my future build completly b4 i buy anything. ive done enough of that already for instance i sould of got a L26 UIM and HV3 instead of my L36 HV3.

ok i think i just answered one of my questions i can run lower than 10psi boost if i do not use a boost controler is this correct?

what i dont understand is how the MAF wont read over 10psi? i know you have to adjust the MAF tables in the pcm other than that im confused how the LT1 is so different than the LQ4

Obviously you don't know what a wastegate is or else you would know without a boost controller your run off whatever spring is inside the wastegate. If its a 9 then you run 9psi off the spring etc.

A wastegate dumps exhaust before it can reach the turbine housing so it controls how much exhaust spins the turbine. No wastgate is as much boost as the turbo can push.

A boost controller controls how much vac is allowed to the wastegate.

I believe the LQ4 is higher than 10 I was just saying the hertz is less than stock. LT1 reads higher.

I didn't mean to sound jerky earlier Ill help you as much as I can but I am not an expert lol

i did know what the waste gate and boost controller was i just had a brain fart and didnt connect the two on how they regulated the boost.

and even if the LQ4 maf has a lower hertz range cant you just change the MAF Tables in the pcm.

or does the LT1 have a larger AND higher hertz range?

You need to scale them with a mini afc etc.

ok ill make i have that too

You can use your LQ4.

ZZP came out with a 3 to 5 wire mini afc and is discontinuing the 3 to 3 wire.

is discontinued and yes ive got ahold of ZZP already about the MAF issue