ok, so when i was on my way home from zzp yesterday i got about 20 minutes from them and my car just died. The rpm's just dropped all the way to zero and the whole car died, no hesitation what so ever, just died(shut off, no power ne thing!). so i went back there to see if they could help me fix it, well they said either the maf is bad or the ignition wires on the side of the motor by the balancer have been rubbed through by the balancer. They said that if the problem continues to unplug the maf and run it without that and you will know that it is your maf. Well when it did it again, i unplugged the maf and it wouldnt even start, so i figured that would be it.

So, i left there and drove for an hr and a half and then it died again. I pulled over, shut it off for a couple minutes and started it back up just fine. Went about another 2 miles and it shut off again, so i shut it off for a couple minutes and started it back up just fine.

Drove another 45 minutes, decided to buy a new MAF from autozone($140), installed the new MAF and i forgot to plug it in and it started up just fine. I was looking at my scan gauge and i was wondering why i wasnt getting any readings from the MAF. So i go and look under the hood just before the freeway and i noticed that i forgot to plug the MAF in. So, i plugged it back in and then i drove off thinking that was it, seeing as the old one wouldnt even run without the maf plugged in. So i drive about another 10 minutes and it shut off again. SO i turned it off and sat for a couple minutes, then turned it back on and it started a little rough but it started. I THEN went another 10 minutes and it shut off again. Well, when i was at autozone, the code said "MAF, MAP, or vac leak".

When i was at ZZP, Matt told me that i didnt need the vac line from the fuel rail to the bbv, so he bypassed it. So, when the code said vac leak, i thought, "hmmm, maybe its seeing that as a vac leak." So, i put that vac line back on and it wouldnt even start. So, i put everything back to the way it was and it started just fine. After this last time of staling it threw 2 codes, (p0101, p0102). After that i drove ALL the way home WITHOUT boost(thinking maybe it was a bad MAP), and when i got home i thought i would try it with boost and nothing happened. Car never died and it ran fine the WHOLE way home(2.5 hrs).

SOOOO, today, i went and started up the car and let it idle for a bit and the code disappeared. I drove it around for 10 minutes or so and it died on me again. I shut the car off let it sit for about a minute and it wouldnt even start. I turned it off again, let it sit for a minute and it started up but rough. I came home, shut it off, let it sit, and it started up but rough.

IM REALLY CONFUSED!!!

Could it be a bad PCM?

Theres a novel ! jk

Seems to be the exact same symptoms when i had a VAC. leak too, It ran fine/died at random times, Then I checked, The T fitting on the LIM broke right off, repaired it all, then it hasnt happened since.

IDK about your whole bypass thing...

all the fittings are nice and secure.

My T fitting under the blower snout was cracked as well. I would go to get on it ad it would miss really REALLY bad and randomly shut off coming off of the interstate. I was getting a MAF code as well. Got another MAF, still same problem, only worse. I'de get the rough/choppy idle after it shut off and it would have no balls. Found that T was broke, fixed it, put the MAF that was on the car BACK on it and the problem hasnt come about in over a year.

Isn't the Idle Vac. number like 19 ? check your aeroforce, those seem to be accurate at idle.

idk about driving though.

one of my friends just suggested the fuel pump resistor could be bad. What are your guy's thoughts on that one?

it doesnt misfire at driving. ALL it does is just SHUT off. It doesnt MISFIRE OR HESISTATE.

Did GT's come with Fuel Pump Resistors, or was it just a GTP thing?

I was thinking CPS or MAF, but you've got a lot of symptoms that don't fit...

I am not sure as I do not know where to look or anything for one. haha

Tim, it sounds almost like your car is giving you the same kind of crap mine is. And mine all started after I did my very first MAF tune so long ago...


On another note, the P0102 code is probably a side effect of the MAF tuning. I throw that one every now and then too.


EDIT: Tim, when *exactly* does it die? If I may query, any time your foot isn't touching the gas like slowing down, turning, or braking? And let me guess, it all happens after you mashed the pedal a bit?


Turn your AeroForce to watch your IAC count. $5 says your counts drop to 0 when your foot isn't on the gas and it's killing your motor.

no, it does it sparatically.

Car should start and run without the maf. So I'd rule the Maf out.

Did you ever check the wires?

how do i check the wires? I dont have the tools for any of that.

Look down by the balancer and see if the wires are rubbing. If they rubbed through they could ground out causing your issues.