When my dad told me it was loud bang coming under pass seat during test driving. I removed that pass. tire. Bang. I found them easy. I couldn't believe my eyes. It is for my winter car problem. Not summer car in my sig if you thought.





I want to plan replaced stock sway bar since it is just winter car but I couldn't believe that price.

It is $106 + shipping from monster online part.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...playCatalogid=0

I remember I read gpona thread about "strong" sway bar. The part # 12498643 "HEAVY DUTY FRONT SWAY BAR". It cost $56.56 + shipping. What the heck? How come GMPP sway bar is cheaper than stock sway bar?

It was bummer. My winter car have been sitting for 3 weeks to loan other member about tint taillight. I drove it for 1 day without problem. The 2nd day BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG then I have to park it again


Sound like it is easy job to replace them. It looked like only bolts job for remove/install. All I need new sway bar part of course. Anything else I need like new bolt or rubber thing?

Get the GMPP handling upgrade kit.

Al hardware comes with the GMPP piece. You could put the GMPP sway bar on your summer car and then the stocker on your winter car. Very easy install. Start spraying the end link bolts now so they come off easier.

Another vote for the GMPP kit.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking to get that gmpp parts because it is cheaper than stock sway bar. I thought it was weird for stock sway bar is pricy than gmpp sway bar. I hope my summer car is not jealous of winter car got new gmpp sway bar first because it was for 2010 project plan lol

*edit*

72chevyman: GREAT IDEA!!! Man I need 4 jack stand for that job lol

I have my stock bar I will sell you from when I installed my gmpp kit.

Don't get just the GMPP sway bar, get the whole handling upgrade kit. It includes an upgraded front and rear sway bar, tubular trailing arms and front STB. I think I paid $180 for mine. They're very affordable and a noticeable improvement in your cars handling, and easy to install. It can be done in a matter of hours.

Is that really worth it for winter car?

Do you got any gm part for "whole package"?

*edit*

Maybe I just buy gmpp package kit on my summer car only which it is supposed be next year. I guess it is not hurt to buy it right now. Then move my summer stock sway bar "wonderful shape" part on my winter car. I mean it is just winter car. Sound like good idea?

yes, its cheap, do it for your winter car, you'll be very happy.

I guess this year for winter car and next year for summer. Sound like fun job to work on it.

It really is easy to swap. I just worked on mine last weekend. I flipped the GMPP sway bar over (because of 3" DP). I upgraded to the poly bushings. Removing the passenger side tie rod end link (bolt) makes it easier to swap. If I had to do it over again, I could probably swap it in a hour.

I would definitely put the stock bar from your summer car on the winter car. Good luck to you.

I think it took me almost two hours to do mine, only because I was stubborn and I fought with the front sway bar, then I finally decided to remove the tie rod end and the front sway bar basically fell out. Then I was really PO'd at myself.

I think if I were to do it again, I could get it done just under an hour.

Okay, I found gm package part #.

pk12456148

DESCRIPTION: Grand Prix, Monte Carlo and Impala Handling Upgrade Kit


This suspension kit is intended to reduce body roll and chassis flex while enhancing cornering capabilities.

Kit is for use on 1997-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix and 2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala and Monte Carlo. Handling Kit inlcudes all hardware and bushings to replace existing sway bars and to add the strut tower brace, and consist of:

P/N 12498642 Heavy Duty Rear Sway Bar w/insulators

P/N 12498643 Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar w/insulator and end links

P/N 12498649 Rear Tubular Trailing Arm Kit which contains two trailing arms P/N 10409660(ARMS NOT PICTURED)

P/N 12456148 Strut Tower Brace.

An additional strut brace P/N 12456148 can be ordered for rear strut tower, but is a labor intensive installation.

That's correct gm part that all I need to order it then that's it? If so then good.

That's shame I can't get rid of strut tower brace. I already have 2 of them. I guess use back up part or sell it.

Use it for a rear STB.
Drill out just a little on one hole on each side and it'll fit on the mount bolts on the rear.
The hardest part of that install is wrestling the bar away from the rear speaker magnets.

Wow, that's crazy.

lol. I don't think our Florida cars have anything to worry about.

Actually, I have 2 STB in my living room. If I order that kits. I will have 3rd STB lol

Yeah, it was crazy. When I removed the tire out and saw that broken part. I just like how heck that metal is soo thick break easy? My summer car used be in winter for 4 years but never got any rusty sway bar. It was weird. I guess I wash them pretty good after driving in the snow in past. Of course, I use car wash WITH underbody wash. I guess it does pretty good job to clean it off before salt ate it up. Yeah, I like to live South but in bottom of Ohio is not that bad. I only get 1 bad snow storm last year so once is better.

I also have a stock sway bar around somewhere.

Don't you love Ohio winter/roads?

I already ordered GMPP handling kit this morning. Thank for offer. I know you live in Cleveland.

I don't mind snow (born/live in Indiana for 1983-1990 and currently live in the Ohio since 1995) but really hate salt ate the metal up for cause rusty. I lived in Arizona for 1990 to 1995. Tucson, Arizona was best city ever to live. I know I never seen any rusty cars in south. Ahh love to wear short in xmas. Good time. Maybe someday I will move back.

Dang palsut thats pretty crazy to see that rusted in 2 pieces


If you dont want to use the STB ill buy it from you,just pm me the price

Yeah, it was crazy. I'm driving the winter car right now. The bang is getting annoyed lol My summer car is on shop for fix cv joint leaking. It was under on warranty. It is sitting inside at dealership now.

I will see about that. It is still middle of shipping. I will let you know if I want to sell it.

Let me know how the install goes. I need to order one soon.

My problem is the area where the jacks go is rusted out due to me using SUV jack stands instead of regular jack stands. Punched a hole up there and it just go worse. Plus the jack I used compressed the vertical part of the frame .

Also, let us know how the right quality is like.

I'm just getting the sway bar since I already got a STB.

EDIT:
ZUUL, your sig is sick. You even got the dual exhaust effect.

GMPP Handling kit was backordered until July

I'm going to try order each items tomorrow instead package (like stb, trailing arms, front & rear sway bars)

GM told me they are all out of trailing arms until July. I'm going order GMPP front & rear sway bars only. I will keep looking trailing arms on other site or wait for until July if I have no luck.

Any word on this... if they have them in stock yet? I need to get a kit, my sway bar is shot.

First, they say trailing arm is out of stock. Now front/rear sway bar are out of stock. I just wait for July.

Sucks... I'm making all kinds of noise. It's just my bushings, but I figure it's as good a time as any to replace all these parts. I've tried to send some emails over to find out if they have it in stock, but they take so long getting back to me.

Since GMPP is still backordered so I got a new stock sway bar. The winter car is getting worse more bang sound during turn.

It was raining yesterday so the water is "buried" inside broken sway bar lol... Right side


Left side


What a messy job.. need garage


Gone! Boy it was b***h to remove them out. The rubber things that hold sway bar in middle of engine are easy to remove. Endlink thing is very very tough to get it out. I have to use metal saw to cut it off because they are very deep rusty. They are finally out.


New vs. Old sway bars

Install new sway bar



From what I learn... tie rod keep hit the broken sway bar when I start the car and start turning to see that bang problem.


I want to thank to creepy cat from top window to watch me all day during working on that car for 5 hours... It might be enjoying to see angry guy and lot of rattle tool sound lol



I took it a test drive. NO BANG ANYMORE! Thank god. The turning is pretty good. It is kind like summer car again.

TIP... Do not let metal parts or tools outside in HOT sunny. You get a hot hand lol... Man, I wish I could move summer car (engine gone) to park it because it was cover under the tree to block the sun all day.

Install/Remove is my new way. I did NOT remove the tie rod.

** is out.
**** is my new way

Properley support the vehicle on both sides using the jack points shown above.
Remove both front wheels.
Remove the end link and mid point bushings from the existing bar.


**
Remove the tie-rod end from one side of the vehicle (passenger side is fine).
Turn the stock bar up and out of the tie-rod and pull the bar out.
**


****
Start the car and turn the steering wheel all way to let more space to get sway bar out instead remove the tie rod
****


Install the new sway bar in reverse.
Make sure the "V" part of the bar is pointing up. It should be at the center of the bar if properly installed and ends up looking like an upside-down "V".
Install the end link and midpoint bushings on the bar - if your midpoint bushings are fitted with zerk fittings, line the bushing with grease first and use a grease gun after installation to properly grease the bar. If not, thoroughly lube the bushing before installing it. End link bushings do not need to be lubricated.
Tighten one side first as follows:


**
Torque the tie-rod end to 22 lb-ft (plus 120 degrees of turn - check your shop manual to be sure)
**


Torque the midpoint bushing to 35 lb-ft
Torque the end link bushing to 17 lb-ft
Support the other side's wheel and properly torque as noted above. A good way to do this is to put a jack under the control arm as shown in the page 2 of the proper jack points shown above.
If you have zerk fittings, lubricate the midpoint bushings now.
Reinstall the wheels and torque to 100 lb-ft.
Test drive the vehicle and listen for squeaks and rattles. If you hear any, make sure that the bushings are greased properly. Only the midpoint bushings need lubrication.

so what did the new swaybar cost ya?I wish you had asked about one on here,i still have my stock bars layin around.

glad you got it fixed tho

IT looks smaller....Ya it messy.
The undercarriage looks rough, sorry bout that winter weather.

I paid $103 for that. Dealership want to charge $200+ so I ordered it online for cheap price. When I post that old thread and I forgot someone offer me sway bar. I just duh me.... oh well too late. lol

That's really part of life in North area. Everyone in North area used that. After driving winter storm on my old look summer car. I always wash it when the road start dry. It does help lot. Winter car is just worse one because lazy owner. But great thing that owner actually use spray black thing under the body to block rust. It does HELP lot. Only worse rusty are exhaust, lower arm, and struts. That's pretty much. Not that bad. If I buy new car. It will be my 1st stop to get under body spray black if I still live in North area.